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When to Remove Paper on String Blocks
I've made a couple string quilts before. Each time, I would use computer paper as foundation on my (roughly) 6" blocks, with no problems. Each time, I removed the paper before sewing any of them to each other.
However, I recently was watching a show where the guest was doing paper piecing of similar sized blocks (also string) and she said, "And of course you'll want to sew a few of these blocks to each other before removing any of the paper." Her use of "of course" made it sound routine, common, preferred, smart, and otherwise NOT how I've done it nor heard of being done. Maybe it's ONLY a preference, or maybe there really is a good reason why not to remove paper before sewing blocks together. I've been mindlessly sewing more string blocks to paper lately, and thought I'd ask about this method before I sew them together this time. Your thoughts? |
I'm recently new to string piecing, and have been removing the paper from the blocks as soon as I finish them. This is what the pattern says to do. I didn't have any trouble working with the blocks with the paper removed.
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I usually remove the paper before sewing my blocks together. I did have to be careful at the edges to not remove any stitches. I did try sewing a few together and then remove the papers but the edges that were double sewed over were a nightmare.
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Originally Posted by Tartan
(Post 7683682)
I usually remove the paper before sewing my blocks together. I did have to be careful at the edges to not remove any stitches. I did try sewing a few together and then remove the papers but the edges that were double sewed over were a nightmare.
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I think she was referring to having the edges stabilized and there is a point to that. But I agree, once you sew two blocks together, the paper in the little seams allowances is a nightmare.
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Originally Posted by zozee
(Post 7683649)
maybe there really is a good reason why not to remove paper before sewing blocks together.
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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When I was using paper in my string blocks, I always removed the paper as soon as the block was finished. No problems. I decided to use a thin muslim for the foundations because I disliked removing the paper especially when sewing a narrow string.
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The mitered log cabin block apparently calls for the paper to stay on while sewing the blocks together. One of my friends did it that way. I (of course) pulled my paper and then sewed the blocks together. I must say that hers was much more difficult to pull the paper from the narrow seam lines. There was no difference in the assembly of the two.
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I have only done 2 such quilts and one TV show I watched the person said she pulled hard on the fabric to help remove the paper, and showed how she just did a quick pull and it tore right off. Yea, great it also made the fabric stretch out and I was trimming the heck out of those shapes. The idea worked - paper came off easily, those triangle shapes were off. Can't imagine trying to remove the papers if they were all sewn together.
When I did those 2 quilts I was not starching my fabric and now I am, so that should help. |
I also remove the paper after the block is finished and before sewing any blocks together. Never had a problem doing it this way.
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Here's a thought...probably only good for scrappy, string. Example: 5x5 block. Paper cut to that size, but when you finish block and trim fabric, trim to 5 1/2 x 5 1/2... Then you can leave paper in for stability, but the seam allwanes are paper free...I use old phone books and I get prospectuses from investments regularly...don't read them, but paper is thin enough to be used.
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I have made several string blocks and have not used paper for a foundation. I use a thin interfacing as my foundation to sew my strips. I do not like tearing the paper off, I can leave the thin interfacing in as it does not ad weight to the block and saves me from all that extra work of trying to get the papers removed.
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If I had sharp points or needed perfectly line up of the blocks, I leave the paper in until after I stitch the blocks together.
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If you need the stability, rather than removing all of the paper, just tear off the corners or edges that might get caught under a seam.
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Often with paper piecing ( not string blocks) you are matching points or elements when joining so the papers are generally used to assist with that- if the instructor is a ( paper piecer) that practice is probably the norm for her. If just making random string blocks with no concern of anything matching up it would be fine to remove the papers ahead of time. The papers do assist in keeping many edges stable for construction but it's your choice. Personally I hate removing papers from blocks like string blocks so I use thin inexpensive muslin for a foundation so I can just leave it in.
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Originally Posted by brandeesmom
(Post 7684339)
I have made several string blocks and have not used paper for a foundation. I use a thin interfacing as my foundation to sew my strips. I do not like tearing the paper off, I can leave the thin interfacing in as it does not ad weight to the block and saves me from all that extra work of trying to get the papers removed.
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Originally Posted by brandeesmom
(Post 7684339)
I have made several string blocks and have not used paper for a foundation. I use a thin interfacing as my foundation to sew my strips. I do not like tearing the paper off, I can leave the thin interfacing in as it does not ad weight to the block and saves me from all that extra work of trying to get the papers removed.
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I'm just finishing a string quilt and didn't use paper but I did use dryer sheets. No need to rip those off at all and every time I have had to iron them, the aroma is lovely.
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I usually don't remove until the top is complete - it's a pain but worth waiting after putting so much time and effort into the project.
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I use phone book pages and after sashing or putting into rows, I remove the paper. I use my seam ripper to run along the stitches and pull off the paper. A little time consuming but makes beautiful blocks. I do this with strings and also selvages.
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Originally Posted by Peckish
(Post 7683732)
Only reason I can think of is it the paper keeps bias edges stable until sewn. But if you've not had a problem before, I see no reason to change what already works for you! :thumbup:
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Here's a hint. Try doodle pads from the $ store. The paper is pulpier and cracks off at the sewn line easier. I do make my stitches a 1.8 or 2.0 also. I also wanted to try the paper for embroidery that dissolves.
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