|
I usually leave enough batting along the edge to fit "under" the binding. In other words, I cut the edges of the quilt leaving about 3/4" of batting around the edges....then sew the binding...2 1/2" folded in half, to the back. Then, when I fold the binding to the front, none is left to show on the back, I have an easy 1/4" or a bit more, to fold over the quilt edge and then I sew a decorative or straight stitch. Sometimes I stitch two rows of straight stitches if it's a kid's quilt that will be washed a lot. I hope I made that clear. It's such a great finish that I use it most of the time.
|
I never ever sew my binding to the back, always to the front. I cut my binding 1 7/8 and fold in half and sew a .5 to the right on my Pfaff. Which is just a fraction smaller than a 1/4 inch. My binding is full of quilt not binding. Turns out to be a perfect 1/4 inch binding finish. And I do what I have developed and call a "Hidden Binding Stitch", when I am finished you cannot see my thread and always by hand.
|
Whatever method you do, I recommend basting (by machine) the first 3 or 4 inches of the binding. Remove it from your machine, fold it to the front, or back, and see how it looks. If you need to adjust the seam narrower, or wider, it's easy to remove the basting threads. Every quilt is different.....based on the fabrics and batting in it. This works for me!
|
I make a 2-inch bias strip, folded in half.
I stitch a scant 1/4-inch seam on the front, fold to the back and do hand stitching on the back side. The front has a more finished look. Never even considered sewing to the back and folding to the front! Obviously, if you do a 3/8-inch seam you'd need wider bias strips, but then if the fabric is cool, sounds like a good idea! |
Whatever method you do, I recommend basting (by machine) the first 3 or 4 inches of the binding. Remove it from your machine, fold it to the front, or back, and see how it looks. If you need to adjust the seam narrower, or wider, it's easy to remove the basting threads. Every quilt is different.....based on the fabrics and batting in it. This works for me!
Good idea. Sometimes I find I cannot get the binding all the way around to the back...or worse, it is loose and so the binding would wear more quickly than where it is tight. |
Originally Posted by Dollyo
(Post 5439666)
I only use Sharon Schamber's Elmer's School glue method. If binding has not been your thing, then you need an expert's advise (hers not mine). This is the easiest, most precise way to do binding. Once you learn this method, you won't send your quilt out for binding. Here is the link to her youtube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE I personally use 2 1/2" strips, glue, press, stitch to the front 3/8", press from the front (setting the seam), press from the back (making sure everything is laying flat), trim the corners, fold to the back, glue, and stitch it down from the back using monofilament thread in the top and bobbin (depending on who the quilt is for). I don't use monofilament for baby or soldier's quilts. Those I use a decorative stitch with whatever thread that I used for quilting the top. I really like variegated, so it is usually that. The first pics binding is just using a decorative stitch from my old Viking. The second quilt is using a star stitch from my embroidery machine. And sometimes, I hand sew them.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]355401[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]355403[/ATTACH] |
1 Attachment(s)
I cut my binding strips 2.5" wide and my S.A. is the width of my presser foot. I am sewing with an old Pfaff 1222E that has the IDT(built in walking foot). I sew the binding to the back first and then turn over to the front, stitch down with either a decorative stitch or a straight stitch 1/8" from the folded edge. I use the method that Kaye Wood shows in her video on bindings, it works nicely and the miter is sewn in. I have to sew my bindings entirely by machine as I have repetitive motion injuries; lots of hand sewing causes days of pain...not worth it. I make many charity quilts for both a local organization and Quilts of Valor. The quilt pictured is one of the charity baby quilts I made, this one is all flannels. Its a Bonnie Hunter pattern, "Crayon Box".
Sharon |
I cut 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inches, bias or straight stitch them together and then start at the bottom right, which is the last place a person sees usually (at least according to the 'experts'!) I sew the usual 1/4 inch, or sometimes more, depending on the thickness of the quilt. I like to have the binding 'filled', rather than 'empty' when flipped and finished, so it is a guess-timation. The trick is to be consistent and to fill the binding and to have enough to cover the machine stitching when the handwork is done on the back. IMHO!
Another tip: When doing the hand sewing, I use the thinner thread (not cheaper, just thinner! like is found not the pre wound bobbins) because I find that my stitches 'sink' into the seam, and never show. |
i cut it 2 1/2 inches wide....fold in half.....put cut edges together on right side. fold over and hand stitich. I guess you could start with the back side and flip to front and fancy stitch. I don't care for a wide binding. What I get this way is just right for me. Had to learn on my own, so please don't let the quilt police see this. LOL....
|
oh and I use 1/4 inch foot when I do it. works for me...........
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:54 PM. |