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Why the puckers????????!!!!!
1 Attachment(s)
I've tired it all...except one way.. and that is the way that will fix this! I starch all squares before sewing them, I press seams flat then to the side, the press on top. I pin seams and use only 100% cotton, and same for thread. When I assemble the quilt, I use the spray adhesive stuff...starting with the back and batting together and starting in the middle and working out in small areas. I press it all down, and turn it over and do the same with the quilt top and even use large safety pins to hold it in places etc. all that said.....
WHY DO THE SEAMS STILL PUCKER!!!!??????? This picture is just one of the puckers...When I do the top stitching like SITD...there are these puckers. WHY? I can't figure anything else to do to stop them...any suggestions? |
Since the pucker is were you pass another stitching line, my first guess would be that your walking foot isn't moving the top layer at the same speed as the feed dogs move the bottom layer.
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Is your quilt laying flat on the table or hanging off of the machine (about 3-4")?? Do you use the quilting gloves? When the quilt hangs it pulls on the machine needle and cause problems, I always use the gloves. It helps to hold the fabric in place.
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Are you stretching the fabric because it is cut on the bias?
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You didn't mention whether you use a walking foot. That could be the problem-a walking foot helps to move top and bottom layer equally.
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try lengthening your stitch length a little bit- are you using a walking foot?- if not that is the problem- if you don't have one can you (lessen) the pressure on the foot you are using? some machines allow that-some do not- but your stitches look really really tiny- lengthening them a little will help
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I have stretched fabric before when I wet the fabric too much with the starch.
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When I am doing any straight line quilting or SID, I lengthen my stitch. I think it helps "loosen" the tension and causes less puckering
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When I do the straight stitching on sashing before FMQ, I start in the middle of the quilt and stitch out to the edge of the quilt in all directions. I used Hobbs 80/20 fusible batt but the fabrics still move a little but if you get the "extra" to the edge it helps. After the whole quilt is stitched outward in the sashing, I quilt inside the stabilized squares. My Machinger gloves really help with smoothing the sandwich as I approach intersection. I think intersections are where most problem puckers tend to occur.
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Originally Posted by Kat Sews
(Post 5535032)
Since the pucker is were you pass another stitching line, my first guess would be that your walking foot isn't moving the top layer at the same speed as the feed dogs move the bottom layer.
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Originally Posted by Pat M.
(Post 5535047)
Is your quilt laying flat on the table or hanging off of the machine (about 3-4")?? Do you use the quilting gloves? When the quilt hangs it pulls on the machine needle and cause problems, I always use the gloves. It helps to hold the fabric in place.
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Originally Posted by crafty pat
(Post 5535051)
Are you stretching the fabric because it is cut on the bias?
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Originally Posted by greensleeves
(Post 5535053)
You didn't mention whether you use a walking foot. That could be the problem-a walking foot helps to move top and bottom layer equally.
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Originally Posted by ckcowl
(Post 5535073)
try lengthening your stitch length a little bit- are you using a walking foot?- if not that is the problem- if you don't have one can you (lessen) the pressure on the foot you are using? some machines allow that-some do not- but your stitches look really really tiny- lengthening them a little will help
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Originally Posted by Sunnye
(Post 5535115)
I have stretched fabric before when I wet the fabric too much with the starch.
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Originally Posted by auntpiggylpn
(Post 5535136)
When I am doing any straight line quilting or SID, I lengthen my stitch. I think it helps "loosen" the tension and causes less puckering
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Originally Posted by Tartan
(Post 5535168)
When I do the straight stitching on sashing before FMQ, I start in the middle of the quilt and stitch out to the edge of the quilt in all directions. I used Hobbs 80/20 fusible batt but the fabrics still move a little but if you get the "extra" to the edge it helps. After the whole quilt is stitched outward in the sashing, I quilt inside the stabilized squares. My Machinger gloves really help with smoothing the sandwich as I approach intersection. I think intersections are where most problem puckers tend to occur.
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Are you using the same machine? Has this always been a problem for you?
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When you wash the quilt, don't the puckers vanish in the over all winkles that occur to the quilt?
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I understand your frustration. That is exactly what my quilting looked like before I got my Pfaff with a built in walking foot. If it is possible, you might want to try taking your problem to the store you bought your machine from. They are usually pretty good at trouble shooting. Even if you didn't buy your machine from the store, problems like this are sometimes seen as a challenge. My other thought is to try loosening the tension on the top thread.
Good luck and let us know if you find a solution. |
Can you loosen the pressure on your foot? That helps me a lot.
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I have not had a pucker since switching to the Hobbs fusible batt. I lay the back on the old carpet in my basement, smooth the batt over it and then the top. I start pressing with a fairly hot dry iron in the middle and work outwards until the top is fused. I flip over the whole sandwich which is partially fused and start ironing the back from the middle out. There is always a little extra fabric that proceeds the iron and I work that out to the edges. When I have the back perfect, I put a few safety pins along the edges so that I don't accidentally peel the edge up.
I use knee pads when I iron on the floor. I sew all the sashing lines first with my walking foot (middle outwards)while the whole quilt is well fused. If needed I re-iron inside the squares before FMQ inside the squares. I am going to try the 505 spray soon on a quilt and see how that compares to my fusible batt because I am not getting any younger and crawling on the floor is getting harder. Good luck and just keep trying different things until you get something that works for you. |
I have also had same problem in the past. I now have a brother mechanical 1500S straight stitch with a big heavy walking foot and also a heavy free motion quilt. Using this machine has allowed me to adjust the pressure on my pressure foot, and the stitch length, and the heavy walking foot seems to make a difference. However, with any machine, (if you can adjust the pressure foot tension, which on some machines you can't), I find that I make a little mock up first a "quilt sandwich" made up of some of the pieced extra blocks or partial blocks, or fabric in some batting. I practice on this first, and see where I may need to adjust things to get the nice even stitching that I need. This would be a twelve to 18 inch square or piece. It doesn't even have to be square, you just have to have it big enough to see if fabric is puckering on top and or bottom, what stitch length looks best, and if your fabrics are shifting. I find adjusting the pressure on the pressure foot makes the most difference in the outcome, and sometimes must adjust the top tension a little as well as the stitch length. For me it is worth the effort both in stitching in the ditch, as well as free motion quilting, to practice first. This was hard for me, since I always want to run ahead and get the thing done, but have found this to be a crucial step for each quilt. Sometimes battings are different. Also, I have begun to use the gloves, and the "supreme slider" which I bought online, that easily stays on your machine and the quilt under the needle part slides over this teflon slide thingy. It has a self stick bottom and I am wondering how I got along without it. Oh, it is wonderful!!! Also, I read that adding bobbin washers can make a huge difference in quilting. I bought these but haven't tried them yet. You pop them into the bobbin and supposed to give you a nice even feed. I am going to try these next. Don't give up. I had the same thing happen to me and was so frustrated. Wow I am long winded. Best of luck to you!!
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Puckers
I don't think anyone has mentioned that when you do straight SITD, you have to push the fabric TOWARD the foot to take in the slack. The natural tendency is to smooth the fabric as you go, which pulls it and you eventually end up with a pucker. Any developing fullness must be gently pushed in the direction of the foot.
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What barbpowers said about pushing the fabric gently towards the foot for SITD. I mostly do FMQ in a large stipple. Also try loosening your tension on the thread. I agree with making a sandwich for testing all your settings before starting on your quilt, wearing any gloves with rubber nubs. I also try to keep the quilt loosely around the needle area, takes the pull off the quilt. Good luck and just try all these tips and you will improve.
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ahhhhhhhhhh now I feel like I am not the only one rotfl.......hope you figure it out-
I am trying to figure out how to cover mine up....I only have two but they are bad ones and it is too late to take apart and do over. |
Originally Posted by coffeebreak
(Post 5535535)
I used the walking foot this time for the first time intending to help this problem, but it didn't help and didn't seem do do any diff than the regular foot
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I was dealing with this exact same problem just yesterday. Using a walking foot; fabric/quilt supported on big table; stitch lengthened, etc. Pinned in a gazillion places... still puckers! After picking out waaay too many stitches, I gave up and went back to the regular presser foot and guess what? It looks much better!
I'd even considered just tying it off. Tried that and didn't like the look. :rolleyes: Honestly think each and every quilt calls for something just a 'touch' different than the last. Please let us know what ends up working for you. |
Have you tried using a stiletto to ease the top in front of the foot? I actually use a large corsage pin.
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Go back to the beginning. From studying your photo, the piecing is not accurate: i.e., white point is cut off, seams not meeting. I never use starch. Just wash the fabric. I have a feeling that the fabric is being stretched during all that starch pressing. And if you have a 12-inch block, the sashing must be 12-inches also, plus seams, of course. To add sash, I've seen some quilters just start at one end and stitch to the end of the strip. This doesn't work as the blocks can be different sizes or the edges stretched. If a cut size block is supposed to be a 12-inch finished size, but the edges measure 12 3/4 inches, the extra length (1/4 inch) must be worked into the top in the location where it belongs. If it is 1/2 inch too long, the same thing applies--work in the excess where it belongs.
Best of luck. SandyQuilter |
The only other thing I can think of is that the top is not pinned or basted as tightly as the back--more fabric play in the sandwich. Try basting it with (ugh!) long basting stitches after you have restretched it on a table using clamps. Hopefully that will help with the moving fabric on the top.
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Maybe you are pulling the fabric too hard while stitching. Are you using the right needle for the fabric? Did you change your needle-maybe its bent or blunt.
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I can feel your pain! I've been there. I too did the things you have done, starch heavily tape down to the floor, add batt, then starched top, pin with safety pins (1inch so little) no more than a palms width. I've used walking feet, freemotion, etc. I've made more quilts on my old mechanical machine, but I have made better ones on my computer machine. I don't think I have any of the puckers since getting my computer machine. I also found I did MUCH better working on the dining room table. The extra space behind my machine and to the side, made quilting a king size very do able. This last quilt I had lots of issues with tension, but that was I think due to a thinner bottom thread (bottom line, and embroidery bobbin thread).
There have been lots of suggestions here, I think I would try and get at least a nights sleep before you tackle it again. I've found that my frustration level causes me to make mistakes, and sometimes sleeping on it helps to figure out something new. Good luck! |
I also think it is partially due to the quilt top not being flat to begin with. Not paying attention when pressing will stretch fabrics... I also wonder if instead of stitchin in the ditch, if there was echo quilting done, some of the puckers could be worked out.
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This has been a very interesting thread, I also have had the same problem for years and it was this reason I went to QAYG
I have a Janome 6500, could one of you helpful lady's and gentleman tell me what foot pressure you have when doing SITD please I must admit my juki is much better at sewing in the ditch but still have one or two puckers,but I am going to try pushing the fabric towards the walking foot |
It almost looks like the tension is too tight. I'd loosen the top tension a bit. It also looks like you've created a slight pleat. Maybe one of the solutions is to STOP using the fusible batting and try and baste without it. Thinner batting may give you a more successful result as well.
But take a picture of the WHOLE quilt for us. I'll bet we'll love it and won't notice these "issues". And once it's washed, you may not notice them either. |
If the backing is pulled really tight before layering the batting and top on it - when it is released/relaxed, the top will pucker up a little bit.
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This thread was started 1 1/2 years ago and she hasn't posted in over a year.
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