Will any of these 3 work?
 

I want to use Eleanor Burns' easy method of applique (sewing fusible interfacing to fabric cutouts and turning to fuse). Can I use any of these products from my cupboard?

Steam-A-Seam 2

Heat n Bond Lite

Pellon Wonder Under

They all are paper-backed and seem too stiff for turning cutouts. I am doing a 6-7" star shape
??? MANY THANKS

I haven't heard of this method before. Sounds interesting. I will be watching this thread. Would you remove the paper first?

Those all have the two sided adhesive, I wouldn't try it with those. The regular interfacing would work, but you would have to pin it to the background. I orignally (years ago) learned this way of applique with used dryer sheets. That works.

I did the Eleanor Burns app'd quilt and used the light weight fusible interfacing like is used in garments---I think that's what she uses??? Anyway, was quite successful and really enjoyed the process. Lightly fused the turned pieces to my blocks and then hand stitched them down. I liked the look--not any noticable bulk. I think you could use most any light weight material for sewing & turning--and then just glue stick to place them until stitched. But I think they MUST be sewn rather than depend on the fusing to hold thru laundering & use. The products you mention DO sound a bit stiff for turning after sewing.

You can do it even easier. By the interfacing with the shapes drawn in it. Most of E's patterns that use this have pre printed interfacing on her website. http://www.quiltinaday.com/shoponline/fusible.asp

The Wonder Under should work.
I use this method to affix Mariner's Compasses to the background.
For me, it's more of a way get the look of smooth edged needle-turn applique ....without the needle-turn part.

Use a smaller stitch when sewing the star lines on the interfacing and fabric, and when you turn it, gently poke the points - otherwise you'll go straight through the interfacing with the awl (or whatever you're using).
Maybe even go over the points once or twice to make sure the stitching is secure before you turn it inside out.

You can use a small zig-zag (or more of a satin stitch) to adhere it to the background - in matching or contrasting thread, depending on the look you're going for.
(Like I said above, I've always hand stitched it down).

Oh, yeah, and make sure that you've got the interface oriented correctly - fusible (dots) to right side of fabric to start.
Been there, done that.

the Elenor Burns method does not use a double sided fusable- she uses fusable interfacing- which has fusable on one side of it- you put the (bumpy) fusable side right sides together with your fabric shape- sew around it- cut an X in the center of the interfacing & turn your piece right side out- then the fusable side of the interfacing is on the bottom (back side) of the shape- ready to be fused onto the background- with all edges finished. you then stitch around the shape....no raw edges - or need to turn under- the edges are finished.

The short answer is no. All of those are two sided, paper backed fusibles. You need a one sided, fusible interfacing.

I use fusible feather weight interfacing, get it at Joanns very inexpensive.