Wool Batting...Let's Talk...
 

I would like to use wool batting due to the loft and definition it gives to the quilting but I'm confused by the directions.

-Do you really have to hand wash it before you use it?
-can you Never machine wash the quilt?
-how far apart can you quilt it?
-some of them say a percentage of wool and polyester...is this normal and still considered what I'm after or do I want 100% wool?
My LQS has it 50% sale right now so if I'm going to take the plunge now is the time to do it.

Watson

I have used wool batting twice. I did not prewash it and I washed my quilt after I was finished and the batting was great. It is lighter and fluffier and was easy to hand quilt but I did not like that it slips and I had to be more careful about puckers. When I use cotton the cottons seem to cling together but with the wool the cotton top and batting could move. I pin when I sandwich and so maybe I am not careful enough. Anyway, no problems about washing. I do quilt pretty heavy so I don't know about how far apart.

Go by the directions on the package. There are different types of wool batting. Some are washable, some not.

I love wool batting, to me its worth the extra I pay for it. I never have pre-washed it and in my house, if it can't go in the washer it don't come through the door.

I have used it several times - wash and dry as normal (low dryer setting)

I'm curious about what brand you have, Watson, that says to prewash.

Wool does not shrink as much as cotton, so wool is the only batting I don't preshrink.

I don't think a blended wool batting would be considered the same as a 100% wool.

The packaging should indicate the minimum distance for quilting.

I've machine washed and dried wool batting quilts with no problem.

I do love wool batting but I find I get the same quilting definition and loft with Hobbs Polydown. Especially if I layer it over cotton or 80/20. It is a fraction of the cost. I save wool for the extra special projects.

I didn't prewash the batting. My quilt has such nice definition around the quilting as well as being light weight. After I finished quilting it, I machine washed it in cool water then dried on low for 30 minutes.

Or get the brand name and google it for details.

The brand of wool batting is very important. Hobbs Heirloom wool is the only one I would use. It does not require pre-washing and shrinks about the same amount as cotton batting. Quilting lines need to be 4" apart or less. Here is the website with information on this batting: http://www.hobbsbatting.com/products...washable-wool/

Quilter's Dream wool batting is also popular, although there was a long thread here some time ago about a bearding problem with it. (I can try to look up the thread if you are interested.)

Where are people finding wool and polyester batting? Is it 80/20? I have not seen one. Brand?

Is Hobbs Tuscany wool a step up from heirloom? How is it different?

I have used Quilters Dream wool in two quilts in the last year and it is lovely, no bearding, washed and dried completed quilts by machine. It can be quilted 8 inches apart, I believe. You can look at their website for specifics. You don't need to prewash it, and it has very little shrinkage, if any. You can also look up that there was one lot that had a problem with bearding and that was resolved some time ago.

Maybe I contributed to the thread you are remembering regarding wool batting. I used the Pellon brand that was on sale at JoAnn.com. There are several choices, and I don't know which one I chose. Sorry. Anyway, it was a disappointment.

The quilting was done on average every inch or two, some areas down to 1/4 inch.

Yes, it bearded terribly. The fibers come out through the good quality LQS fabric on both the front and the back.

I did not prewash the batting. I cannot imagine it would have stayed together. It looked like carded fluffy wool, with an appearance more like how a polyester batting looks than how a cotton batting with scrim looks. It pulled apart easily, and care was needed to not stretch it and make it thin in areas.

I wash the quilt with cold water, and dry in a warm dryer. I didn't find anything amiss with shrinkage-- I had the usual crinkly look as I get with cotton batting. In the dryer, the quilt develops little balls of wool on the surface, which are spread around the front and back, about 5 balls per square foot. The lint trap collects about 3/4 cup of wool fibers. This happens every time I wash and dry it. I suppose after time, I will have no batting left!

Probably I have not followed the manufacturers washing instructions? But I'm going to continue to launder the quilt as I do my other quilts, and just pick off the balls as they happen.

I do like the noticeable difference in the quilt being warmer and more light weight when you are under it than a quilt make with cotton batting.

I use Quilter's Dream wool for my own quilts, love it have never had a bearding or other problem. It's warm but not hot, and very lightweight on the feet. And it doesn't need prewashed at all.

I have not used wool, but am interested in the discussion here...thanks for starting it.

I've used Quilter's Dream wool several times and love it. No pre-shrinking, no bearding at all, wash and dry in my machines.

I have used both Hobbs Heirloom wool and Tuscany wool. Was talking to Hobbs dealer just recently--it's washable, dryable (although I rarely put quilts into the dryer), it does shrink some, is wonderful to quilt through. Have used it both with an 80/20 underneath (double bat) and by itself. My favorite bat--wish I could afford it on all my quilts!

I use Hobbs wool batting on almost all of my quilt. I like the Tuscany since it is not packed as tightly as Heirloom, but my understanding is that they are the same batting. One reason I really like it is the weight— it is so much lighter than cotton (This matters both in quilting and in making up a bed).

I have not prewashed and I have no trouble washing the quilts in the washer. Since my dryer is so small, I lay the quilt on a bed to dry withe the ceiling fan on high. I turn it over after a few hours to dry the other side.

I like the Hobbs Tuscany wool batting a lot. I do not know if it the same as the Hobbs heirloom. I do like the looser packaging. However, if wrinkles are obvious I put the batt in the dryer on air day with a damp hand towel. Wrinkles gone quickly. When I wash a quilt, I always dry flat, either on the floor or a bed covered with a cheap plastic painter's drop sheet. I like the way they look and feel.

I’ve been using wool battings for years. Hobbs Wool and Dream wool.
i have never prewashed a batting of any kind.
i always launder my finished quilts - in the washer, normal cycle, toss in dryer, normal settings. - I’ve never had a less than desirable outcome; the quilts come out of the dryer soft, lofty, fabulous
the ones I’ve used ( Hobbs and Dream co. ) allow r” between quilting lines ( the package should tell you the recommendation for quilting)

Good question. I’ve gone to the Hobbs website and read their detailed descriptions on both the Tuscany Wool and Heirloom Wool, and other than saying that the Tuscany is the made from the “very finest” wool, the descriptions are the same. I’ll be cynical and say the biggest difference is the price tag?

I used wool batt in one quilt because I expect to show it some day. When hung the quilt doesn't show fold lines. It washed up fine. Too expensive for my blood though on a routine basis.

I asked Hobbs about the difference between Tuscany and Heirloom at the Houston Quilt Festival and was told they are the same, it’s just a difference in packaging. Heirloom is packed tighter and thus needs some relax time (a day) laid out before I use it. I prefer the Tuscany.

Thanks everyone for your tips. I think I'll skip it this time around as I don't have a quilt top on the horizon that needs it and it would still be expensive even at 50% off to just have it sit in my closet until "one day".

Another concern was that it was only 240cm (94") wide which wouldn't have made it wide enough for a queen if I ever wanted to long arm it or have it LA'd. What's up with that? Do people just piece it?

Watson

Is there some process on these batts to keep them fluffy? Some years ago my mother gave me a comforter that she had hand carded the wool in it. I didn't realize it would be a problem when I washed it and the wool did not hold up. I essentially ruined the piece. And then, if those homemade wool dryer balls tend to felt, what keeps these wool batts from doing likewise? I've never used a wool batt so am interested.

I haven't seen a wool and polyester batting, but I have used Hobbs Tuscany Cotton Wool Blend Batting (80/20). It's my new favorite. I bought it at Connecting Threads when they were having a sale:

https://www.connectingthreads.com/ba...nyCtnWool.html

I have been following the wool batting posts recently and am afraid they are out of my price range. I noticed Joanns has a Warm and Company polyester batting on sale and am wondering if any one has used it. The instructions on the packaging seem almost too good to be true. Up to 10" apart no basting necessary, how is this last part even possible.

There is a huge difference in how the wool batts we are talking about today are manufactured, compared to a hand carded batt. The manufacturing processes used by QD and Hobbs are relatively new and were developed to improve the stability of wool batts and reduce their tendency to beard. I don't know all the details, but I do know that these kinds of processes are not possible with hand carding.

Most wools that are felted are first woven out of wool thread. The weave holds the threads together while the wool felts.

If you look at wool fibers under the microscope, you will see that the fibers have tons of little "hooks" sticking out. When you wash these fibers with soap and water, and agitate them, the hooks start finding each other. Agitation, in the presence of soap and water, allows all those fibers to slide around each other so the hooks find and snag each other. It is all this "hooking up" that causes wool fabric to shrink. With fully felted wool, you can cut the edges for applique and leave them "raw" because the edges will not ravel -- because all the fibers are hooked together.

A hand carded wool batt, such as your mother made, does not have the woven threads of an army blanket to hold it together. Once inside a quilt, each area inside a quilting space will have an opportunity to move around and shrink itself into a blob when washed with soap, water, and agitation. Agitation is required for felting, so I expect quilts with hand carded wool batts of years gone by were hand washed and probably laid out flat in the shade to try. That's how they could maintain their shape and condition.

This is why brand matters so much in the wool battings that are purchased today. Hobbs and Quilter's Dream both use manufacturing processes that make wool battings handle like cotton battings in terms of washing and drying (and bearding). Not everyone who makes a wool batting uses these newer processes.

You're so smart, Prism!! :thumbup:

I have the label for Hobbs Tuscany Quilt Batting. Here are some of the interesting things on it. (All caps are from maker of batt.)

Gives warmth without weight
Naturally hygroscopic and can absorb up to 30% its own weight in moisture without feeling damp.
Quilts magnificently by hand or machine
Quilt up to 4 inches apart
Washable
Breathes naturally
Resin bonded. - is lightly resinated to provide stability and retard fiber migration
Naturally mildew resistant and resistant to moth damage when quilted with cotton fabrics.
Made with chlorinated treated wool which is intended to prevent shrinkage.

Care instructions:
Wash by hand or use the gentle cycle of the washer.
Agitate as little as possible when wet. Agitation could cause felting in wet wool.
Use only cool water for both washing and rinsing - 80º plus or minus 5º water is desired.
DO NOT CHANGE WATER TEMPERATURE FROM WASHING TO RINSING.
Use extremely gentle detergent when washing the finished product. Orvus Paste is recommended. Wash as a fine cashmere sweater.
Rinse thoroughly. Rinse till the water runs clear.
DRYING IN THE DRYER IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
Dry on flat absorbent surface, such as towels.
An oscillating fan will speed drying considerably.
Once quilt is just barely damp, it can be fluffed in the dryer on AIR only. No heat. Remove promptly.