I even called a repair person out to check my machine. He said nothing wrong with this machine , that'll be $125.00
Turned out it wasn't the machine it was the table that wasn't adjusted right. Be sure your quilt is flat on the base
under the needle. If its not flat the needle is pushing against the fabric. Mine worked just fine after I got the quilt flat.
And yes you have to move your whole body to keep up with the machine,or you get stuck out of balance.
Good Luck SSUZZ

I enjoy doodling over pantos, and I usually don't draw. Do invest in a dry-erase board and practice muscle memory.
Find some fun pantos, try: www.urbanelementz.com. I am not affiliated, just love their pantos! They also have a monthly club, which makes it more affordable.
Remember to breathe, relax your shoulders, and bend your knees. Change it up every now and then. Drink some water. Good music-? All good fun! :)

Well,your hushband should have done a lot of research befor saying,'write it up."They aren't all the same.I got my long arm several years ago.I remember trying to follow the lines on a panto.Wow,I had tears running down my face.I knew my hushband spent a lot of money for my machine.And this needed to produce income.Well,I kept at it,and now I am one of the best in my area.It gets better.Do you have good support through the store you purchased it from?That is necessary.Also,practice on paper.The brain doesn't know the difference between pen and paper or you guiding the the machine.In the brain it is the same.Try it,it works.Also maybe go a little faster when you stitch.This makes your curves smoother.Also,you can dot the thread with Sewers Aid.It is silicone and will make the thread slip through all the thread guides a lot smoother.If this doesn't work,insist your dealer help.At this point you don't have enough experience to figure this out on your own.And,RELAX.It is just fabric.Go for it.

I have had a long arm for several years. Practice is the key. I was quilting this week an just couldn't get the tension right. So messed with the bobbin tension and the screw in side the upper tension and Bingo the tension is fine. Still think my thread breaks to often. I'm going to take a quilting class in July. Ready to go from meandering to so patterns.

Enjoy your long arm

A good video to watch one that is free is Pam Clarke on you tube she has a few ...I have bought her cds and her stencils and like working with them.

Jratcliff---This sounds just like me. I really like making tops and bought the machine cause I had so many to quilt I thought it would be a good idea. I have made many many lap quilts for a nursing home done with pantos but my free hand quilting sucks. I can do stipple and meader pretty well but I don't know if I will ever be good at free hand. I have a quilt on my frame right now that I tried feathers on the borders. When I finished I thought it looked so bad that instead of taking it off the frame I proceeded to rip out all the feathers. It is still on the frame. Not finished. I decided to do something else for awhile.

Hang in there. It's like learning to dance with a guy with two left feet. You'll learn what speed you like, what thread you like, what your machine likes and doesn't. You're right that it takes practise. I've heard that there's a rule of thumb that you have to do at least 20 quilts before the confidence kicks in and then there's no looking back. look out world!!

My machine uses needles that do not have a flat side at the top. If I put them in and they are off even a teeny tiny bit i have issues with thread breakage.

Try different patterns of free motion and different sizes. I still struggle with meandering (lines don't cross). But, I am really good at loopty loo stuff (swirls with loops, think coiled rope spread out on the floor). Hang in there. And, just like the other ladies said, relax and move your body. I liked the dancing analogy. If i get tense, my quilting gets herky jerky. Listen to some music, or better yet, sing a catchy song!

Oh, and, straight lines were really hard.

Have fun!

I recently purchased a longarm also (Handi Quilter Avanti). They set it up for me and gave me a quick lesson. They said to practice free motion first and once that is mastered move on to pantographs. Well, I could not for the life of me do very good free motion. So, I attempted a pantograph on a charity quilt and that seemed so much easier to me. I have now done 3 charity quilts with different pantographs and finally ventured on to two of my own quilts. I also used pantographs on those. I suggest you go on the Handi Quilter web site. They have lots of tutorials - the one on thread and tension is so very helpful. You don't have to have a Handi Quilter to benefit from their tutorials. They are video tutorials or pdf files - however you choose to open them. Lots of different ones. Good luck - you will get more comfortable as you go.

Get some heavy plastic from Joann's or some quilter's plastic from your local quilt shop, about 18" square is easy to work with and put painters tape along the edges (so you don't accidentally go off the plastic!), grab a dry erase marker and a quilt top - put the plastic on top of the quilt and practice different designs with your dry erase marker, erase the design with a little piece of batting and try another design. Free-motion is not difficult and by practicing you build muscle memory. If you need help with designs, check out the websites of quilters and try to copy what they have done.

As far as your thread breaking, check out Superior Thread's website and look at the "education" tab - Dr. Bob has all kinds of fabulous information on there for fabric artists. I love the King Tut, Rainbow, Lava, Bottom Line and So Fine, as well as their metallics. I can run all of them on my LA with no problems. Yes, the thread is expensive, but not having thread breaks is worth it to me - I do enough tying and burying knots without the thread breaking and adding more!!!

Woo Hoo, we have such a smart group of helpful souls, it's wonderful!

I think we (gulp) might be ready to try a charity quilt since we have several to practice on. We're on vacation next week so I think it will be a project for that week.

I went to a class for my Crown Jewel that was 4 days long. It covered all aspects of the machine and frame. It included lots of practice and discussion on different patterns. I came away confident. I still needed practice but the stress was gone as long as I treated myself gently - giving time to become experienced.
I think you need to find someone who can work with you for several sessions - even another longarmer who has a different machine and frame who you can pay to work with you on tension, loading, thread, needles, sewing straight lines, sewing curved patterns, using longarm rulers, pantographs, etc. Then come home and make some muslin sandwiches and just repeatedly sew patterns.

That was an awesome video. I learned so much.

Your basic machine is a TL18LS...Pfaff buys the basic models from TL company & retrofits some items, mostly cosmetic in nature).
Breaking thread...check the bobbin tension...Yes, you can change the bobbin tension.
You want to be able to lay the bobbin case, face up in the palm of one hand, and pull the thread coming off the bobbin case (don't put through the pigtail) and have the case just start to lift off your hand, then stop and the thread come out straight and with just a hint of tension. This is your starting bobbin tension (mine stays that way).

Test the stitch...you may see pokies or loops on top...loosen the upper tension a full turn (lefty loosey)...and retest. I run my upper and lower tensions fairly loose...this lets me use any thread out there....metroemb.com and threadart.com are my favorite for poly threads. Threadart has nice quilting cottons also, and metro has a newer line called Sigma, a bit stronger poly than the Metro embroidery/quiliting threads....oh, and threadart now has bobbin thread in colors...60 wt. Nice both on top and in the bobbin when doing close stipples.

Remember that the tension assembly for the upper thread does not have settings. The numbers on the dial are for referrence only. If you start with a 2 on the top, a full turn puts a 2 on the top again. Turning the dial less than a
half to full turn will not make a noticable difference in tension.

You should be able to run any thread, even serger (I use this for bobbin thread) and regular 50 wt cotton/poly or blends. Rayon is not recommended, it's pretty weak and the colors can run when the quilt it washed. They fade also.

If you continue to have issues, and your dealer can't help...have them contact the TL company & set up a conference call, to work out any issues.

My TL18L is basically the same machine....it has a sticker that says Groz-Beckert 134 san 11 size 18 needles. I've also bought size 20 & 21...the 20's are a different brand (Oregon I think, or Orange), I also use a 22 ball point when doing those old doubleknit tops. I've never tried a 16...never use a small enough thread. 40 wt, I like the 18's.

My feeling is to use what works for you. And yep, run my bobbin & top tensions pretty darn loose. I can use from 60 wt to pearl cotton and not have any issues...after making needed tension adjustments.
Marge

[QUOTE=moonwork42029;5230908]My most wonderful darling husband decided I (meaning he wanted to play on one) a long arm. About a year ago he saw one when we got the embroidery machine and has been itching to get one ever since. Well a few weeks ago, they were on sale (Pfaff Grand Quilter 18.8 with Inspira? frame) so he said to "write it up".

We were told we could use thread we had on hand (wrong) and that it was easier to learn free hand than to follow a pattern with the laser. (not for the uncreative minded)

We've now bought several big spools of quilting thread and have been trying the laser out and doing somewhat better than free hand on some practice fabric layered with flannel.

OMG...it's awful looking! We can't follow a straight line to save our rearends...and the curves....oh the curves look more like rounded off squares a lot of the times.

It has the auto stitch so it only sews when we move the machine so it's not that problem.

Maybe in 6 months we can load a "real" top on it but until then, it's just practice.

Grrrr and we can't seem to keep the thread from breaking so we're biting our nails.

This too shall pass and we'll laugh at how awful it was...someday.

Okay, I'll take a big breath and go back in the other room now....Pfaff - look out ...I'm coming back.[/QUOTE


I hold the world record for thread breaking while learning to LAQ. I took one whole week and played with tensions. went through lots of practice thread and fabric. Though there can be lots of other problems that cause your thread to break, mine was my tensions were too tight. Another reason is going too fast for the speed setting you have selected. Cotton thread seems to break less than poly, at least for me. A tip: once I mastered tensions on one brand name of thread, I switched completely to that thread. Now I have very little tension adjustment. Still some, because some dyes cause the thread to swell more than others. Good luck and keep at it. It will come.

For thread breaking I usually try a bigger needle. I had lots of issues with top thread snapping and it was due to my eye on the needle being too small, so I went to a size 16 needle...problem solved :)

find a friend that has one ...to come and help ..

My guild owns a Nolting. We were told to run the thread through a tiny bit of liquid silicone soaked fabric. We do use the same cone thread I use for everything else. We change needles frequently. However, jerky movements can break thread very easily. The guild suggests beginning with a capital cursive L movement, then trying other things. I hate marking, so I don't. Many "experts" suggest drawing the pattern you want to use repeatedly on paper (newspaper will do) with a marker pen, to get the 'flow' right. I can't stand and work on the guild's LA any more, so I really envy you.

It is a long learning curve. I just retrofitted my Gammil with a stitch regulator and am sort of learning all over again so I sympathize. I have found that, when my thread starts breaking often, it is almost always the thread. Buy good thread. These days, I rely on Bob's Superior threads and get the best I can afford. It saves a ton of aggravation. As to the curves, and "drawing" on the fabric, that's just practice, practice, practice. If you have the opportunity, taking a class helps a great deal as well.

Thread breaking - usually tension problem, sometimes a barb on the needle (even if it is a new one!), occasionally it is a bad batch of thread, and, as someone else said, some machines like some threads better than others.

Top Tension: I get mine adjusted by turning the tension knob to the lowest setting. Then I start sewing a few inches at a time, check the stitches front and back. If the back stitching is loose, I turn the tension knob a half turn, repeat the process. I do that until I have satisfactory tension on the top and bottom.

Bottom tension - there are you tube videos that will show you how to set the bottom tension. They are correct!

My sister had a problem on her small arm with thread breakage so she and I went through all the steps for setting tension, got it right, but the thread still broke. Then we checked the needle...sure enough, there was a barb. Next time, I'll start checking with the needle!

I use a pc-quilter with my HQ16, so can't offer any advice on free motion quilting.

There is a wonderful YouTube video by Jamie Wallen on machine tension. It will work for any machine. It really helped me tweek my machine and the confidence to try other threads.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM

I agree with AndiR. Takes ALOT of time! I took to freemotion quickly, but I have taken numerous online classes to gain skills and confidence. One of my ahHA moments was the suggestion of a white board. I have dried up many dry erase markers. Last time I doodled bees for a week before I would attempt one on fabric. I even have a small board that is for kids learning their letters. Lined on one side, plain white on the other. I take it with me everywhere when I am trying to learn a new shape. Don't put your elbow down: you are teaching your arm and shoulder the movement. If you put your elbow down, you are teaching your wrist and hand. I could not do a pantograph to save my LIFE for about 6 months. I needed good control of the machine to follow someone else's line. Do what feels best to YOU 1st, and add to that when you are ready. I have heard that a glass of wine and some music helps too!

Might be frustrating now, but really ... isn't it absolutely exciting? I have a HQ Moxie that I learn something new every project! Excellent suggestions in this thread to give you some guidance. I checked on my "cheat sheet" for any ideas that might help you, and this is what I have:
1. Upper tension - if its too tight, your thread will break
2. Is your quilt tension too tight? loosen by 1-2 clicks & see if that happens
3. Poor quality - fabric, batting or backing
4. Is your foot to high? (I'm not familiar with your machine)
5.Thread quality, needle quality
And the practice of doodling on paper first is important to develop the muscle memory. When practicing swirls, curls etc. try lowering your stitch length, look where you are going not where you are at. Try them at different sizes too.
Hope some of this helps! I'm no expert and I have to remember to heed my advice! :)

My Tin Lizzie loves Glide thread -- and so do I. I use it almost exclusively on my Janome Horizon, too. In regard to all the good advice you've gotten about the needle, be certain it's inserted properly. If it's in slightly to the side, your machine won't stitch properly. Classes were very helpful to me, and YouTube still is. You'll figure it out -- it just takes time, patience (not always easy) and practice.

FYI - this is a 9 year old topic that got bumped today.

OP hasn't been on the board in 6 months.

when I got mine I did practice alot I did fmg on my sewing machine but with the longarm it is different. Remember if you are using a pantograph like I do most of the time you do not have to follow it exactly it is kinda roadmap you can wander off just like driving a car if you veer to far left you slowly get back. Remember have fun with it enjoy

when I got mine I did practice alot I did fmg on my sewing machine but with the longarm it is different. Remember if you are using a pantograph like I do most of the time you do not have to follow it exactly it is kinda roadmap you can wander off just like driving a car if you veer to far left you slowly get back. Remember have fun with it enjoy also if you have tension problem Jamie Wallen has a great u tube video on taming tension.

This thread, although older, was just what I needed to read. I purchased a very slightly used Crown Jewel III on a Momentum frame several weeks ago. I purchased from a private party, so no lessons came with it. It also came with the QCT5 Pro quilting software. I'd never once quilted on a longarm. Talk about a steep curve - trying to learn the machine and software simultaneously. Lots of reading manuals and watching YouTube videos, sometimes yelling at the monitor. Yesterday, my friend who used to quilt my quilts years ago before I bought my Tiara sit-down machine came over. She showed me how to use the laser for pantographs and gave me so much encouragement. Now, after her visit and my reading this thread, I know I made a good decision to purchase the longarm. My first pantos are due to arrive any day, and then I'm going to try my first quilt. Thanks for all the wonderful tips.

Its interesting that an "old board" got bumped up just when we needed to learn or be reminded of the intracies of this hobby of ours! Woohoo!

Those of us in "the forum business" call these "zombie threads" when they get bumped ;)

Even reading through the older threads, you can learn or find what you are looking for. I like to read through them. Just pulling them up will give a lot of insight to different issues and answers. Especially if it is about an older machine or product.

I'm curious whether there is an issue with old threads being bumped into the current queue?

With a very old thread, people start answering the questions asked in the first post. That original poster has long since had their questions answered and/or may no longer be on the board.

It's always best to start a new topic with your specific questions so you can get answers to your questions, rather than lots of responses to the first post of an old topic.

Many forums have warnings pop-up when you try to respond to an old topic if it's more than 6 months old. As an admin/moderator for several other forums (not quilting-related) it creates a lot of work to split out "bumps" of old topics into their own, new topic. We do it to keep the subject on track and the information current.

They just want to see if you're paying attention ;)

For the most part, I agree with MKC.

People posting new questions on old threads oftentimes get overlooked, because most readers don't realize the thread is old and respond only to the first question.

Sometimes the original thread can have helpful information, but I've seen a LOT of posts full of outdated info, old broken links to websites that no longer exist, etc.

The learning curve is just one reason I am more than happy to continue to quilt by check.

I've no time to make tops that will come out looking sloppy. Add that to the lack of room and unwillingness to pay over $10,000 for a long arm, and I will run up the road to my very talented quilter!

I just wish sometimes people*would* search the older threads. Alot of good info there and it would avoid the repeat questions - yes, you can use fleece as a backing.

lol Apparently I wasn't paying attention at all! :)

Thank you for responding to my query! Is this an issue that perhaps should have a Attention Post to all on the board? TBH I didn't pay any attention to the date of the original post. I was just hoping I had suggestions of value to offer.

Learning to quilt nicely on your longarm will take just as much practice as it did to free motion on your domestic! It is a whole other skill set.

What really, really helped me was the wonderful series of instructional videos on YouTube by Michael Quilts. He does a great job of explaining how to approach the learning curve and build skills. Watching and following his methods was a breakthrough for me, and I loved his rulers as well:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDc...YIewEeUtu7J__A

To get straight lines, ruler quilting is your best friend!