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When I have to sew triangles together I dab the ends with a glue stick when I put them together to avoid them creeping out of alignment.
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I just read a Marti Michell technique where she folds the fabric and does one seam at a time instead of pivoting. Unfortunately the info was in a template pack so I can't share it. You might try go ogling Marti Michell and y seams.
My secret to precision is to not sweat it. Strive for it, but most people won't care about your perfect points and corners. And if they do, they aren't really seeing your quilt, just being picky, so stop showing them ;). |
Originally Posted by citruscountyquilter
(Post 7352435)
I really like Kaye Wood's tips and techniques. Here she demonstrates her method of doing a Y seam. I used this making a quilt that had tons of Y seams in it and it worked like a charm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLkHfcuNzCA She has lots of other tips on being accurate as well. To get my points to be pointy in a pattern (like in triangles, stars etc) I put a pin through the point and then through the fabric I'm sewing it to. Most of the time it is 1/4" but not always as often there is just enough give in fabric to be a little off at that intersection. I make a mark on my fabric that I'm sewing the point to with a Frixon pen where the pin comes through and that is my seam guide when I go to sew my pieces together. Perfect points every time. Even if the seam on the backside isn't perfect who will notice. |
I use heavy starch, especially in situation where there are bias edges. Along with careful pressing, the starch really seems to help prevent distortion. Also, If I am concerned about getting good intersections, I will first use my machine to tack/baste the areas that are problematic, open them up and check to see if they line up properly. If not, it's always easier to take out just a few stitches than an entire row. It takes longer, but I find that it works well for me. I have only done a few y seams so I can't help you there, except to mention the index card technique--since the lines on most index cards are a scant 1/4" apart, you can use those to help mark the stopping and starting points for your y seams--speeds things up a little over having to pull out a tape measure or ruler.
Rob<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style="width: 0px; height: 0px; display: block;"></object> |
I never prewash and always use scant quarter inch seams. Depending on the quality of the fabric, I sometimes use Best Press starch alternative. This or starch should be used before cutting. If my blocks need a little squaring up, I use Best Press on the back of the blocks. Be sure blocks are completely dry (if you use starch or steam) before squaring them up. My Juki 20-10 came with a 1/5" foot but it seems that's the only machine that has one. Its an exact scant quarter inch. I have tried to find them to fit my other Juki and my Singer but they do not seem to make them. The Juki 20-10 is considered an industrial machine so I guess that's why. But even with my other machines I always try for a scant quarter inch, which allows for the fabric taken up by the seams. I'll have to try Rob's tip of measuring with an index card.
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For me I think it's working to cut accurately. If the ruler slips or I'm off just a minute fraction of an inch, it adds up.
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