Thanks so much, but I actually did order the "Invisigrip" already. One thing about tape with adhesive like "Invisgrip" is that you need to clean the area where you will be sticking it.

I tried to redo the alignment boo-boo, but didn't have enough material to make that adjustment. I ended up just replacing the whole side that had the problem. Came out looking very nice. And it was due to that cutting error, which I didn't see until things were sewn together.

Right now I have a few different solids and prints of fabric in a few yards of each. I also have two fat quarters, and the remnants of a jelly roll, and of course, my first cotton fabric purchase which was almost a total disaster.

Since I am limited in quantity of my fat quarters, I have been trying to carefully cut out the blocks exactly, one at a time. Many of the star blocks I am doing usually have only one or maybe four blocks of a particular size.

But, what do you do when cutting from such a small piece of fabric? Do you just cut a strip the width of that one block, or do you carefully cut out only the fabric needed for that block? When I have four or more blocks, I usually just cut a strip the needed width, then cut out the blocks from that strip. I usually have a short piece of fabric I throw into my scrap box, but really wouldn't want to throw most of a strip from the strip of fabric I just cut one block out of, into that scrap box.

I've not been able to successfully make another star block the past few days. For some reason the dimensions of the blocks and triangles haven't fit together properly. I've had this problem on two star blocks so far. The edge has a big triangle with two small triangles attached, but they always seem to end up being too long by about 3/8 inch on either side. I get the feeling I am not aligning the small triangular pieces properly on the big center triangle, that eventually is supposed to create a three triangle rectangle. And the finished rectangle, not only is longer, but is also too short width wise. I've triple checked my cut sizes, and they are correct, so something I am doing is wrong. So I eventually just cut up all the bad blocks, and put the remnants in my scrap box. Any thoughts on what I might be doing wrong? Sorry, no pictures of what I put together. Was a bit disappointed, and that's why I just scrapped the problem..

When attaching a triangle to a square or rectangle - there will be "extra" - or "dog ears" - sticking out.

Maybe ? the attached drawings help.

If you match the circles (inside the seam allowances) - parts of the triangles are sticking/hanging out. They are supposed to.

Those "ears" are usually trimmed off after the pieces are sewn together. The "ears" are eliminated on Marti Michell's templates.

If/When limited on fabric, I have drawn (in pencil or chalk marker) on the back side of the fabric to see if I can eke out the necessary pieces and then cut them one at a time.

Can you post a picture/drawing of the block you are making?

Or of the pieces you are trying to put together/

I am fairly good at drawing visuals - not quite so good at visualizing from other people's descriptions. https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images...s/confused.png

Hmmm, I guess I must be doing something else wrong, though I'm not sure what.

Below is what I should have, but for some reason, the side triangles aren't large enough to give enough material above the big triangle point so that when sewn to the block above, that center point sits perfectly. It ends up being cut off by about 3/8 inch.

I'm getting the idea something in either my measurements are wrong, or the figures on the web page might be incorrect. I have to assume it is my measurements, as the person who posted the web pages wouldn't make that kind of mistake.

The notorious Flying Goose/ Flying Geese.

There are about a zillion ways to make them. It is a tricky one to get right.

The block I have been working on for the past few days is called a "Sawtooth Star".

This one in the picture is the third try. I'm sure I just don't understand how to position the listed sized pieces, but I just couldn't figure things out, so I did a bit of a change. Actually there were two. First was that I increased the size of the blocks of the small triangles from 3 7/8 to 4 1/4. The second change was instead of a 1/4 inch seam, I had to increase it to 3/16 in order to get the proper final width.

Seems things worked with my madness.

I ran out of the orange brown material, so I had to substitute another print that was fairly close to matching the other colours.

If I run into this "Flying Geese" pattern again, I will be looking closely at the dimensions. I don't want to go through the frustration of having two tries go into the scrap heap.

What size (finished size) are you making?

Finished size is 12 inches (12.5 with 1/4 inc border). Actually, two opposing sides are about 1/16 inch short. I probably goofed on one or more of the 1/4 inch seams somewhere.

Here's my version of the "Trailing Star" It's a 12 inch block (12 1/2 actual). Only problem is that when I trimmed things down to 12 1/2, I nipped two of the tips on the edges. Guess I will just have to live with it. It turned out OK, and I learned from it.

Also learned that one of my square rulers just happens to be for 12 inch blocks, giving an actual 12 1/2 template. I'm slowly learning about my tools.

Also learned that I need to keep my ham hands away from the sewing machine buttons. I manage to hit two of them, which caused the needle to move to the left, and change the stitch pattern. I ended up bending that needle, and had to replace it. I think that's what has happened before, when I've accidentally hit one of those buttons. Kind of wish Singer had put them behind a little door, as with my neurological troubles, I don't even know I've touched something until it goes haywire.

Ok, I think I may have figured out your problem with the flying geese. You've added seam allowance to your small triangles, but judging from the picture you drew, you haven't added the seam allowance to the large triangle. Separately, draw each of the pieces in the finished size that you want them to be. Then add 1/4 inch seam allowance to each side of all triangles. Compare both the large triangle and a small triangle to one of the ones that you messed up.

Flying geese are used in a lot of blocks. Try the four at a time method here: https://www.generations-quilt-patter...lt-blocks.html. You don't have to worry about cutting triangles, just squares. I'm a big fan of sew first, then cut, especially for bias seams like HSTs and geese.

Give us a link to the web page that you followed so we can look at it. Even designers make mistakes. I recently ran my first mystery here and I made more than one.

Here's the link: https://quilttherapy.com/?p=14460

I ended up making sure I had more than enough size on the small blocks to get that top seam allowance. After I put the flying geese together, all I had to do was trim the top to the correct seam allowance. Still can't figure out why I needed to do a 3/16 seam on the two blocks attaching to the big triangle though.

I think everything migh have been solved by how the two triangles were positioned on the big triangle, but I couldn't figure that out.

Here's another 12 inch block. It's my version of the "Galactic Star".

I got things a little crooked somehow. I've finally come to the conclusion that not all my blocks well come out nice, let alone perfect. But that's OK. If I can somehow piece them all together into a quilt, then I will be happy. Eventually I will figure it all out.

As usual, the colours are not what the block diagram called for. I'm using what comes as close as possible.

I really think you are doing very well with your blocks. Many quilters, including myself, keep the first one and as we improve and make other quilts, we can look back and see how far we have come. Future ones never make the first one any less important. It is one I still enjoy very much.

That's the hard way to make geese, I think. Next time, try the four-at-a-time I linked above.

There are also specialty rulers like Deb Tucker's Wing Clipper.
I use mine all the time and really recommend them. I think you would benefit from her Tucker Trimmer as well. Follow her directions and you can trim oversize, wonky blocks down to perfect squares.

IceLeopard, I guess I must have forgotten about the flying geese link. I just looked. I probably will try to do those four on the quilt block that gave me so much trouble using the over sized method. Just need to practise how it is done before I understand things. I like doing things, as I learn more quickly that way, instead of just reading about it.

I also bookmarked the tools link you provided. Seems those tools you mentioned come in three versions each. And it seems that because they use different measurements (inc, half and quarter) depending on the version, it looks like I would need all six she has listed.

Just don't have the money right now. I purchased a "Stripology"template, as it looks like it can really save time and stress when cutting basic strips and squares. Just cost a fortune. Of course, most things nowadays seem to cost a fortune to me. :-)

Barb in Louisiana, Yes, regardless, whatever you manage to create, is a keeper. It will contribute to something you make. It might just take time to find it a home.

I am one quarter of the way, or so to completing my star blocks for my next quilt top. Not really sure how many I will need. I will definitely be putting, I think it is called sashing, between the blocks. I think this might end up being a 4 by six quilt top. I'm sure there are enough versions of star blocks for me to get 24. I definitely need the practise making them.

Here's my sewing machine extension, or whatever it is called. I couldn't remember which of the five threads I had mentioned I would build this, so I just decided to place the results here.

It's basically thrown together using the materials I had on hand in the storage shed. Top is 3/8 sanded ply, with the sides a combination of 3/4 ply and 3/4 thick clear pine. I had a partial can of Varathane stain with urethane. I then covered it again three times with spar urethane. The splotchiness of the finish is due to my running out of the stain/urethane. It's still drying for the next 48 hours so that the stain/urethane is completely cured. The top should be very slippery with the finish I put on it.

Hopefully this will allow me to handle quilting a bit easier than my first one. I definitely would have liked to use a full sheet of 48x96 inch ply for a top, but as I've said before, I live in a small house. This is all I can manage, which is 24x48 inches.

Another block done. This time it is called a "Morning Star", and is my version based on the available fabric.

I tried making everything but the center over sized, but it seems I goofed when I trimmed the blocks down. Should have left the outside of the blocks that were to be the edges untrimmed. The typical learn as you go thing. So the block is again a tiny bit undersized by about 3/32 inch on each side.

One of the "fixes" that I have been told about -

One can put a narrow border/frame/sashing - around a block to bring it up to the size of the rest of the blocks.

Yes, I do plan on putting sashing around the blocks. Each will require a precise measurement to bring all of them into a point where everything goes together properly. I think all I will have to do is find the largest of my blocks, and them place the others atop to see how much difference in size there is to make that size adjustment.

I made three more 12 inch blocks, They are The "Ribbon Star Variation", "Five Star", and the "Eight Pointed Star Variation".

While they were fun to make, they also did not turn out perfectly, hard as I would try. They either came out too small, points did not quite hit where they should have, or something else. I just keep trying to get one of these right, and it will happen eventually.

I also have been dealing with my whatever it might be called, where I keep placing something together the correct way, and then never notice I somehow switched things in the process. This is about the most frustrating thing I have to deal with whenever I am doing anything. Had the problem my whole life, and as I have said, it is frustrating.

Anyway, I have to eventually figure out how to integrate all these blocks that have various sizes. I think the sashing will be the way it is done, but just have to figure things out. like figuring out the "Flying Geese" blocks that I have had to do 3/16 inch seams in order to get things to fit.

You are doing very well and increasing complexity -- good going!

We all have to work on our points being pointy and our seams correct and blocks coming out as intended. While most of strive for doing the best we can, that means different things to different people. I don't stress too much if a point or two is off in most cases, but sometimes it is just too noticeable to ignore. I mostly make bed quilts and go by the "5 feet away test", often we are so close to our work that we do pick up every imperfection that we don't see from 5 feet away. And if that isn't enough, you can use the "5 feet away on a galloping horse" level of perfection :)

I have been amazed during my quilting career of how many times I sew the right pieces together the wrong way! Even if all I do is pick up a laid out block next to my sewing machine I can still get reversed/wrong. I'm a believer in pinning and while I can still pin the wrong way, I'm correct more often than not. Unfortunately, I typically do all of one step at a time so if I pin incorrectly then I sew incorrectly and then I have a bit of a moment... and decide whether to start over again or to frog (rippit rippit!) stitch.

IceBlossom, Thanks so much.

I ended up just going and getting the "Wing Clipper" and "Tucker Trimmer 1", as a set. Just got them this morning, and have been reading the enclosed pamphlets carefully.

What I've discovered is that the quilt blocks I've been coping from the net, do not have the proper dimensions for the flying geese based on what I read in those pamphlets. It may very well be that those dimensions ARE correct for someone who knows how to position cut triangles on the rectangles to create whose flying geese, but I am not one who knows that secret. I've wasted three times the fabric I should have needed to create those flying geese because of the measurement problems; problem with my not knowing that secret.

Anyway, I discovered the dimension difference is 1/4 inch for the small blocks (wings), and 1/4 inch for that large block (body). I sure hope this solves the problem I have been having so much trouble with. If not, then I really do not know how to solve the problem, other than the solution I used for the 3/16 seam, and big over sized parts.

What size unit were you trying for with the Flying Geese? (Finished size)

"finished size" is the size/amount that shows after all the seams are sewn

Finished size is 4x2.

I just finished making four flying geese using Deb Tucker's "Wing Clipper", and using the instructions sent with the tool. While they aren't as perfect as shewn in the how to video, the ones I created are nearly perfect, and they are the correct size, with correct seam allowance.

I wish I had known about this set of tools when I first started. It would have saved me a lot of frustration, and a lot of wasted fabric.

For geese I like the rectangle and two squares method, which is the stitch and flip method shown here as the first option:
https://kristinesser.com/2018/07/12/...ifferent-ways/

A lot of people like making multiple units at a time but I'm usually going a bit scrappier than that.

Check out this thread with what to do with the other half of the squares:
https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...e-t309180.html

Thanks to that nice "Wing Clipper" template, this quilt block "Maple Star", got done very easily. Only one little thing with a seam not quite meeting. But that's not a biggie.

The irregularity with the edges is due to my having to use not so good fabric for my white. I am using white Muslin. Guess I really need to order better white fabric, so when pressed, everything lays down.

Beautiful blocks so far. You are doing a great job.

The newest block is called a "Star Burst". It's the most complex one I've attempted so far, and it wasn't even close. The general look gets the idea the quilt block author was try to show. Unfortunately I tried to do a four at a time flying geese thing, which required me figuring out how to put the small half square triangles together. I failed to realise that when I sliced these small blocks down the middle, I would lose the points on all four of them. And I also didn't manage to get the small blocks on the interior to line up.

All that said, I still like the results. As one of our members tole a newcomer, Quote: "remember that seams not lining up makes it an art quilt! Matching seams are one designer's idea of how it should look - we are in control of what it will finally look like!" Unquote ! This is definitely an art block.

I think I will go ahead and choose a star block, and do a colour variation, maybe half a dozen of them, and then put that all together.

All the various blocks I have created were to see just how far I could go with the current skills I have. I think this last block has pressed the limit on what I can do. Time to try something else.

I have seen some patterns very similar to your finished block. The fact that your points are all the same "off" makes them right and I like the term Variation, so to me this block's new name is Starburst Variation.

Barb, Thanks, you're very kind. I guess there had to be a point where my ability to translate a block diagram was going to end up in defeat.

But it has pointed me toward my next quilt, and it will be one of the relatively simple star block quilts, a "Trailing Star". It will be a bunch of variations in the colour scheme.

I've decided it will go on my bed, which is a twin XL. That means the dimensions will be roughly 8 by 9 feet. This includes 3 inch sashing and border. With 12 inch blocks, I needed something between all of them. Though for the border I am debating on possibly using the rest of my trimmings to create a very long multi colour one. With all the problems with my making flying geese blocks, I've accumulated a lot of incorrect sized material I can use for this purpose.

This should take forty-two 12 inch blocks. And I will be using anything that can cut into 4 inch square blocks, which all the needed blocks are. All these will either be full blocks, or half square triangle blocks. So it will be pretty easy to put together.

As I do not see colour differences well, and have always had problems matching compatible colours, that is going to make this interesting with my using all the various this and that I have available.

Anyway, the adventure begins on quilt #2. Should be a lot of fun.

8 x 9 feet is 96 x 108 inches

A twin mattress is approximately 38 x 80 inches

Assuming that the 8 foot measurement will go crosswise - that gives you 29inch overhang on each side.

I do not know your preference for how you cover - or don't cover - your pillows.

If you only have the quilt go to the top of the mattress (not over pillows) - then you will have a 28 inch overhang at the foot of the bed.

Is your bed very tall/high? Some beds are so high, one almost needs a ladder to get to the top of the bed.

It might be more manageable if you went with a bed skirt and have the quilt only go a couple of inches over that.

Remember that quilting "shrinks" the quilt - the denser the quilting, the more "shrinkage".

You're right. I only did very quick calculations. I can probably drop one block in width and one in length. That would give me a dimension of 78x93, with a total of 35 blocks.

The bed from floor to top of mattress is 25 inches, and I purchased the thinner mattress. I'm over 6 foot tall, so I don't have a problem climbing in and out of the bed. The quilt should just come just below the bed platform. And I like to cover my pillows with the bed spreads, or in this case, the quilt

I am wondering just how anyone can maneuver a king sized quilt through a machine. I would imagine that lots of the finishing stitching would have to be done by hand.

This link may help you decide how big to make your next quilt.

https://www.allpeoplequilt.com/how-t...determine-size

If this is your 1st block for your quilt

isewman, I started quilting about two months ago. I did my first quilt (lap) about a month into this adventure.

Since then, I've made somewhere between 10 and fifteen different blocks to get some practise with ever increasing difficulty. I got stumped on my last star block, which is the last I posted on this thread, and decided to take one of the star blocks, and do a lot of colour variations.

So, I am in the process of cutting out about 560 four inch squares. I'm trying to match colours as I cut, and pile the cut squares for each block together in preparation for putting all of it together.

Hello All, I've been busy creating thirty five 12 inch Trailing Star blocks. The picture shows my crazy set of blocks in various colour schemes. The reason for such a variety of colours and combinations is due to my limited fabric supply.

While making these, my sewing machine continued to act strangely, locking up about every bobbin of thread. I would cleaning things up and oil that area, and kept changing the needle, but still had the same problem. The last time it happened I looked at things with a magnifying glass. I saw that the spool thread coming down to the needle showed that thread wrapped around the needle. I waited for this to happen again, and like clockwork I found the thread wrapped around the needle. So it wasn't a dirty or machine,or lack of oil, or a dull needle. It's just that the thread somehow gets wrapped once around the needle. This is frustrating, but easily fixed, now that I know what is happening.

Not sure this is something I can fix. It seems that the thread, when just starting on a piece of material bunches up about an inch or so, then things work fine. But occasionally that thread somehow wraps around the needle. I am wondering if it is a tension problem. My stitches are just fine after that initial bunching of the thread at the start of sewing a new piece of fabric.

Regardless, the experience has been enjoyable. I love creating things, even if what I create does not always match traditional color schemes.

Your blocks are pretty.

Do you hold the thread ends towards the back of the machine when you start sewing? That has really helped me to keep the threads from tangling or getting pulled down into the feed dogs.

My "newest" machine is from the mid 1980s - so don't know if holding the threads is necessary or not with the new machines. But it really helps with my machines.

I've learned that if I cut the threads too short - then my needle unthreads.

I have a Siinger Quantum Stylist 9960. It's a computerized machine, and supposedly adjusts thread tension automatically.

It also has a thread cutter. All I have to do is push a button, and the thread cuts, and is held in position for the next fabric to be sewn. In order for me to hold the thread when starting, I would have to dig it out of the slot just ahead of the feed dog.

I think the problem just might be an idiosyncrasy of the Quantum Stylist 9960. Now that I know what to look for when the needle gets stuck, I know just to rethread the needle.

Look at you go!

Many of us use "leaders" or I like the term "spider" to start our stitching, some people have squares they put together and make a top out of, I reuse a spider, otherwise the way my brain works is I would still need a leader for the leader... (the little ends of threads hanging off the bit of fabric look like a spider).

I love the thread cutter on my modern Bernina, but I'm used to my old vintage machine. I've seen discussions of other machines with the cut leaving too much of a tail or cutting too short and stitches coming out, but as far as I'm concerned it is just right.

What I don't like, and one of the reasons on why I use a leader/spider is that it automatically starts with a few close stitches, and for me that causes more problems than it solves.

Double check your tensions and your threading, I'm finding that when the thread loops around the needle something isn't quite right, one of my machines does like to work it's way out of the clamp just above the needle and while I'm sewing it is ok, but then it gets looped when I stop/start.