Viking 6270
 

Just got a 6270 free and was wondering if anyone had one. There is no manuel and when I plug it in nothing happens, but not sure about switch. Would it be worth getting fixed it is wan't too dear? It looks to be in good condition, and maybe it is me. If you have one please PM me and maybe answer a few questions. Price was right. Free.Thanks.
Carol

I think those were very good machines. The manuals are available on Ebay.
If I recall, those are susceptible to having a cracked stack develop over the years. Also, the knobs stick if not used frequently.

These are one group of machines that was made to last 30 years, and they hit it quite accuratly.

They came with a "self lube" inbedded in the gears, and over time this gets gooey and hardens up. So at some point around the 30 year mark, the machine needs to be thoroughly cleaned and every bit of that goo removed. Usually takes solvent and a blow dryer. If you just soften it, it will harden back up. Once it's gone, then the machine needs to be oiled regularly as it no longer had the self lube ability.

And since they were synthetic gears, once it starts to stiffen up, it's super easy for someone to try to force a knob and snap something internally. And like said above, the main cam stack would crack. This is something even though they also have external cams, though the only one I'm real familiar with is the 6570.

Do NOT attempt to force any button, knob of lever. You'll break it before you free it up, and these are not easy machines to work on.

The self lube ability in these gears is a porous metal gear (brass or bronze like) lubricated with a specific grease. When the machine get's used the lubrication heats up and release enough to keep it running fine. This type of lubrication should not be impossible to replace, it's a well know technology. If replacement parts are available, it's worth it, but it all depens upon what you are willing to pay or spend time on as a DIY project.

The line of 6000 Vikings are very good and sew a vvery nice straight stitch. Most of them have to be oiled and are not self oiling. The first thing I would do is clean it up, disamble the bobbin area and clean it out good. Oil all areas that need oiling. You will be surprised how good it will move when oiled. Do not forget the bottom of the machine. Lay it on its side and take it apart at the bottom area. Lay some cardboard down to keep oil from going everywhere. I have a 6460 Viking and I did this to it. If the top comes off oil it, flip open where the needle bar goes up and down, oil it. Place oil in the hole where you adust the pressure of the foot. Good luck.

Biggest thing is power does not seem to be getting to it, while it looks good and clean, nothing happens when plugged in but it moves by hand. Cannot figure out if there is an off/on switch I don't see or what?

To test where the break in power is, plug the machine in and squeeze the foot control full-throttle. Wiggle the cord where it goes into the machine, where it goes into the foot, and where it goes into the wall. If wiggling the cord brings a burst of power, then you probably need a new cord. If the break is where it goes into the wall, you can replace the plug end pretty easy. If not, You need to figure out if it's the foot control or the motor. If you take it to a Viking dealer (or any repair shop), they should have a cord to test your machine with. I wouldn't think they'd charge to just plug your machine in with a good cord/foot control and test it.

My DH does black powder shooting and makes his own clothing and gear for reacting. I keep my Viking 6020 especially for him. They are a great, tough machine, the only one I know that has a true low gear for tough sewing.

Finding someone who knows this series of machines is difficult and many shops will tell you it's not fixable because they don't know how to work on them. I am lucky to have found an older Viking guru about an hour from me. I have had 3 rebuilt and currently have 2 of them, the 3rd lives with my sister-in-law. Added to what was said above about the self-oiling getting hard, they also have couple of parts that are a weakness, the internal cam and the take up slide (they crack, but parts are available). My guru usually charges $200 for a complete rebuild plus parts. The most recent time, my friend wanted to gets hers worked on and I took mine (found at a thrift shop for $10) along, thinking to offer it to him for parts because it was frozen. He convinced me it was worth saving and gave us a "two-fer" and now that "runs like new" machine is going to go to another friend. Unfortunately I am in Oregon!

There is a yahoo group called "vikingsewingmachinespre1980" run by a retired viking guru, and he would probably be able to tell you where to start to diagnose your issue. He also has a lot of viking technical info in the files section, and he maintains a listed of trusted techs who work on the older vikings. That is how I found my guy.