I do mostly applique and my rule of thumb is to examine the weave of the fabric. Sometimes I hold it up towards the light and if I see a lot of light coming through I don't buy it. Then when I take any fabric home it immediately goes into the laundry room and gets washed and dried before it goes into my sewing room. This shrinks the fabric and tightens up the weave. I do use a lot of batiks for my applique and have had no problems needling it. I use an applique needle rather than a regular needle. These needles are much thinner than the others.
Have fun on your applique journey.
Gitlisgal
Newport Oregon