Dear Glenn, Thanks for this tutorial. I am preparing to possibly do this to my F & R handcrank, which is now working beautifully mechanically, but has rough spots where I can see shellac flaking up, mostly gone, some remaining. If I could possibly ask a few questions to clarify, I would really appreciate your wisdom...
1) I have some "Circa 1850" food-grade wood-finishing oil, sold at Lee Valley; it does not list its ingredients, only to say it is pure oil, no other ingredients. It is quite a viscous oil, as compared with tung oil, for example. Do you think it is okay to use this instead of the linseed oil? (I would love to be able to use what I have, and not purchase more bottles of stuff!)
2) I have some stick shellac; I have used this in other applications, but never for wood finishing etc. Am I correct that I simply crush it up and stir with alcohol in order to make liquid shellac?
3) The rubbing alcohol, I thought, would take off decals; I presume this is why you say just to go over the rough spots and avoid the decals?
4) Naptha, won't this also take off decals? I was wondering how to clean off the gunk (sewing machine oil, wax, etc) which is on the machine now, and then I read your recommendation of naptha; I do have some white gasoline at my disposal, however, could you please advise me as to what -not- to do with it, in terms of wrecking the decals and finish? I am confused because I thought that naptha was to be kept far far away from a decalled/japanned finish.
Many thanks in advance, if you are able to advise.
-Cecilia.