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Old 04-03-2016, 03:46 PM
  #9  
Silver Needle
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mechanicsville, IA
Posts: 1,497
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Originally Posted by Jan in VA View Post
The main problem with the regular log cabin block (as opposed to court hose steps log cabin, for instance) is that the block is pieced in concentric circles -- you keep going around and around the block in the same direction, clockwise or counter-clockwise, with each strip (log) you add, whether you've precut or not. Anyone who has done needlepoint knows this can easily make the finished block/piece skew on the diagonal.

When I teach the log cabin, we make it with long strips, not precuts, and add a 'round" - or 4 logs - then square up using the 8" Bias square Ruler from that Patchwork Place.
In squaring, we make as many blocks as we need, stopping each after the first "round" has been sewn(or you could think of this as after 1 log has been placed on all 4 "walls" of the cabin).
Then we square up all at one time, using the smallest block as the guide for all of them.
We shave off the tiniest amount of fabric to make each block perfectly square.
Then we add the second "round" of 4 logs, and square up again.
This seems time consuming at first, but it saves time at the end, when setting the blocks all together, because they ALL match perfectly and piecing the top into rows goes very quickly.

Jan in VA
Thanks so much for this information. I have a log cabin in my future someday and it would make me crazy if the finished blocks didn't match up halfway close.
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