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Old 03-16-2010, 07:16 PM
  #29  
Alu_Rathbone
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Originally Posted by MissTreated
Watch the sales at JoAnn's, often the patterns are $.99. That would be for Simplicity, McCalls or Butterick. McCall's and Butterick are the same company now, and are better engineered than Simplicity. I use simplicity as a last resort. Personally, I like Vogue, the best engineered going. I haven't used the European patterns much, mostly because when they first came out, they didn't include the seam allowances and it drove me NUTS!

For an initial project, choose something with very few seams. Keep it simple. Use a cotton broadcloth, it is probably the easiest to sew on, not so many slipping issues as a satin or a loosly woven fabric.

Be sure to use a needle suited for the job. You probably don't want to use a tiny needle, you'll experience too much breakage, but by the same token, do use a great big one either. About an 75-80 would be good. Also, use a ball point needle for knits.

Back to the patterns. On the main pattern piece, you will find a number at the bust and/or hip. That number indicates the FINISHED garment measurement at that point, not your size. It gives you an indication of what the ease is, or how much extra fabric you will have to fit around you. You don't want the finished garment the same as you, it would fit like skin, only a lot less comfortable. Depending on the style, you want at least 2" of ease, and if the pattern is to be loose fitting, even more, or if it's a knit, perhaps a bit less, again, depending on the style. Be prepared for the pattern size to be bigger then your ready-to-wear size, sometimes as much as two or more sizes. It's just a pattern and you can sew a size 2 label in it later... :)

Be aware of the arrows, they indicate where the pattern peice is to be placed in conjunction with the grain of the fabric. If you have a fabric with a nap, or is otherwise a one way print, be sure all the arrows are pointing the same direction, this ensures your garment doesn't have "upside down" parts when it is all assembled.

I've probably told you too simple of things, but I really don't know how much experience you have. If you want more, please ask, I'm more than happy to share what I know. (and I really know a lot about clothing construction)
We just had a sale on patterns. I'm not sure if they are going on still though.
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