Singer 319 in need of TLC
03-12-2013, 01:07 PM
#171
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Hi all, I just bought my second 319. In Australia we got the 319K (made in the U.K.) which is, as far as I know, identical except for the (240V) motor.
My first one (haven't used the new one yet) is very quiet. I have had about a dozen sewing machines and this is probably the nicest all round machine yet.
I did read the entire thread last night (17 pages so far!!) and bookmarked it. Miriam, you've inspired me to do a full pull-down: I'll be using your lovely pictures as a guide and perhaps will take a few myself.
The special needles were quite easy and cheap to obtain, even here. I would never modify the timing (was lucky that the machine was a one-owner). My dad says "engineers aren't stupid", and this machine was engineered to take the special needles. I bought 3 10-packs (one pack for each size) for just $18. I then marked the packs with the machine it's for (I have a few machines).
Anyway, thanks again. I'll post any relevant photos of the restoration.
Mike
My first one (haven't used the new one yet) is very quiet. I have had about a dozen sewing machines and this is probably the nicest all round machine yet.
I did read the entire thread last night (17 pages so far!!) and bookmarked it. Miriam, you've inspired me to do a full pull-down: I'll be using your lovely pictures as a guide and perhaps will take a few myself.
The special needles were quite easy and cheap to obtain, even here. I would never modify the timing (was lucky that the machine was a one-owner). My dad says "engineers aren't stupid", and this machine was engineered to take the special needles. I bought 3 10-packs (one pack for each size) for just $18. I then marked the packs with the machine it's for (I have a few machines).
Anyway, thanks again. I'll post any relevant photos of the restoration.
Mike
03-12-2013, 01:41 PM
#172
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
welcome! And PLEASE do post pics - we will all learn more, too!!!
I have to admit I learned a LOT since I started this. Did you note the service manual??? I would be testing the chemical cleaners and paint on each section of the machine before you dig in on the cleaning - they don't even use the same paint on the different pieces I'm thinking. Were your wires any good - I have yet to see one with good wires most crumble.
I have to admit I learned a LOT since I started this. Did you note the service manual??? I would be testing the chemical cleaners and paint on each section of the machine before you dig in on the cleaning - they don't even use the same paint on the different pieces I'm thinking. Were your wires any good - I have yet to see one with good wires most crumble.
Last edited by miriam; 03-12-2013 at 01:47 PM.
03-13-2013, 10:37 PM
#173
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Hi Miriam,
Yes I've been taking pictures. I chickened out of the full restoration but instead did as complete a clean, grease and oil as I could in a single day. The wiring for the plug was definitely dangerous. The connector had been sticky taped together, so I didn't attempt to test it. After removing the tape, the plug had broken and someone had re-wired (probably due to the ends losing their rubber, which my other one has also done), but they had bared too much wire and the thing would definitely have shorted very quickly. I super glued the broken bit back together abd if it doesn't hold, I'll have to make or find a new plug. I shortened the wires again and made them safe.
Half of the feet have "melted", that is the rubber has gone bad from age (and being in Australia), and they look like lips injected with waay too much collagen.
I'll check the motor wiring before plugging it in.
OK, got to get back to it. More later.
Mike
Yes I've been taking pictures. I chickened out of the full restoration but instead did as complete a clean, grease and oil as I could in a single day. The wiring for the plug was definitely dangerous. The connector had been sticky taped together, so I didn't attempt to test it. After removing the tape, the plug had broken and someone had re-wired (probably due to the ends losing their rubber, which my other one has also done), but they had bared too much wire and the thing would definitely have shorted very quickly. I super glued the broken bit back together abd if it doesn't hold, I'll have to make or find a new plug. I shortened the wires again and made them safe.
Half of the feet have "melted", that is the rubber has gone bad from age (and being in Australia), and they look like lips injected with waay too much collagen.
I'll check the motor wiring before plugging it in.
OK, got to get back to it. More later.
Mike
03-15-2013, 12:51 AM
#177
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
I no longer use Dawn or Kerosene. I would test anything I use in an inconspicuous place to make sure no paint is compromised before going very far with the cleaning. Some times the paint is very fragile.
03-15-2013, 05:37 PM
#178
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Hi again, I'll try and fix things where possible but that connector is beyond repair.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401953[/ATTACH]
The foot controller is something that might need work. I forgot to check it but the motor is running quite slowly, but is normal with the other machine's foor controller. Initially I thought I'd screwed the motor up when I took it apart to check the brushes and armature.
Anyway, one big problem was that someone had re-timed it! I sighed and Googled the problem. The needlebar had the fix. It's at http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.ph...g_-_Singer_319. I also took a few pictures to show this. I did bend a needle while testing it, and there are only two screws holding the bobbin assembly in place, not three.
Here is the left side of the machine with bobbin removed and a close-up of the timing marks:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401956[/ATTACH]The needle bar did not align accurately at the bottom. I had to loosen the two screws holding it then, with a screwdriver against the top tapped lightly (it had to go down). I pushed it down too far and lifted it by levering with another screwdriver. Don't forget to tighten the two screws.
I turned the wheel so the second line was level and the bobbin holder was also not in the correct position. Loosened the two screws a little (they need to hold it lightly so you don't move it when you're re-tightening the screws). Here is where the bobbin holder should be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401959[/ATTACH]The needle aligns with the rear most hook tip. It really helped having a perfectly timed machine in the same room.
Putting the tension assembly back together was also a challenge. I started with the base (screw bit) and since I has already removed the whole thing, this had to be aligned to the same angle as the good one. I did this quite precisely by removing the end knob and putting a screwdriver in the little slot, then see where it points. With that done, I simply followed the instructions given by Singer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401960[/ATTACH]I was surprised to find this in the user manual. Extremely useful information.
After setting this, the machine now sews. I'm not sure why but it still isn't as good as the other, uncleaned one. The 'good' machine is very forgiving in that I can sit down without adjusting anything and can generally get a great stitch out of it. This one I had to fiddle with the tensions for a while just to get it to stitch properly. This reminds me, here are the bobbin tension instructions (I don't have 50 yards of fine silk, so had to approximate):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401961[/ATTACH]
If you have any ideas about why it won't sew as well as the other one, I'm all ears.
Thanks
Mike
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401953[/ATTACH]
The foot controller is something that might need work. I forgot to check it but the motor is running quite slowly, but is normal with the other machine's foor controller. Initially I thought I'd screwed the motor up when I took it apart to check the brushes and armature.
Anyway, one big problem was that someone had re-timed it! I sighed and Googled the problem. The needlebar had the fix. It's at http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.ph...g_-_Singer_319. I also took a few pictures to show this. I did bend a needle while testing it, and there are only two screws holding the bobbin assembly in place, not three.
Here is the left side of the machine with bobbin removed and a close-up of the timing marks:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401956[/ATTACH]The needle bar did not align accurately at the bottom. I had to loosen the two screws holding it then, with a screwdriver against the top tapped lightly (it had to go down). I pushed it down too far and lifted it by levering with another screwdriver. Don't forget to tighten the two screws.
I turned the wheel so the second line was level and the bobbin holder was also not in the correct position. Loosened the two screws a little (they need to hold it lightly so you don't move it when you're re-tightening the screws). Here is where the bobbin holder should be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401959[/ATTACH]The needle aligns with the rear most hook tip. It really helped having a perfectly timed machine in the same room.
Putting the tension assembly back together was also a challenge. I started with the base (screw bit) and since I has already removed the whole thing, this had to be aligned to the same angle as the good one. I did this quite precisely by removing the end knob and putting a screwdriver in the little slot, then see where it points. With that done, I simply followed the instructions given by Singer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401960[/ATTACH]I was surprised to find this in the user manual. Extremely useful information.
After setting this, the machine now sews. I'm not sure why but it still isn't as good as the other, uncleaned one. The 'good' machine is very forgiving in that I can sit down without adjusting anything and can generally get a great stitch out of it. This one I had to fiddle with the tensions for a while just to get it to stitch properly. This reminds me, here are the bobbin tension instructions (I don't have 50 yards of fine silk, so had to approximate):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401961[/ATTACH]
If you have any ideas about why it won't sew as well as the other one, I'm all ears.
Thanks
Mike
03-15-2013, 05:51 PM
#179
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Are you hearing more noise? Is it the stitches not the same? Is it too slow? too fast? hesitates? What is it doing that you don't like? I love it when I get two machines side by side - same machine but not the same feel. It is amazing. It gets more fun when you have 3 of them and each sounds different and feels different but can be the same model. I don't know if I could afford 50 yards of silk...
03-15-2013, 06:00 PM
#180
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,850
Hi again, I'll try and fix things where possible but that connector is beyond repair.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401953[/ATTACH]
The foot controller is something that might need work. I forgot to check it but the motor is running quite slowly, but is normal with the other machine's foor controller. Initially I thought I'd screwed the motor up when I took it apart to check the brushes and armature.
Anyway, one big problem was that someone had re-timed it! I sighed and Googled the problem. The needlebar had the fix. It's at http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.ph...g_-_Singer_319. I also took a few pictures to show this. I did bend a needle while testing it, and there are only two screws holding the bobbin assembly in place, not three.
Here is the left side of the machine with bobbin removed and a close-up of the timing marks:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401956[/ATTACH]The needle bar did not align accurately at the bottom. I had to loosen the two screws holding it then, with a screwdriver against the top tapped lightly (it had to go down). I pushed it down too far and lifted it by levering with another screwdriver. Don't forget to tighten the two screws.
I turned the wheel so the second line was level and the bobbin holder was also not in the correct position. Loosened the two screws a little (they need to hold it lightly so you don't move it when you're re-tightening the screws). Here is where the bobbin holder should be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401959[/ATTACH]The needle aligns with the rear most hook tip. It really helped having a perfectly timed machine in the same room.
Putting the tension assembly back together was also a challenge. I started with the base (screw bit) and since I has already removed the whole thing, this had to be aligned to the same angle as the good one. I did this quite precisely by removing the end knob and putting a screwdriver in the little slot, then see where it points. With that done, I simply followed the instructions given by Singer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401960[/ATTACH]I was surprised to find this in the user manual. Extremely useful information.
After setting this, the machine now sews. I'm not sure why but it still isn't as good as the other, uncleaned one. The 'good' machine is very forgiving in that I can sit down without adjusting anything and can generally get a great stitch out of it. This one I had to fiddle with the tensions for a while just to get it to stitch properly. This reminds me, here are the bobbin tension instructions (I don't have 50 yards of fine silk, so had to approximate):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401961[/ATTACH]
If you have any ideas about why it won't sew as well as the other one, I'm all ears.
Thanks
Mike
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401953[/ATTACH]
The foot controller is something that might need work. I forgot to check it but the motor is running quite slowly, but is normal with the other machine's foor controller. Initially I thought I'd screwed the motor up when I took it apart to check the brushes and armature.
Anyway, one big problem was that someone had re-timed it! I sighed and Googled the problem. The needlebar had the fix. It's at http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.ph...g_-_Singer_319. I also took a few pictures to show this. I did bend a needle while testing it, and there are only two screws holding the bobbin assembly in place, not three.
Here is the left side of the machine with bobbin removed and a close-up of the timing marks:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401956[/ATTACH]The needle bar did not align accurately at the bottom. I had to loosen the two screws holding it then, with a screwdriver against the top tapped lightly (it had to go down). I pushed it down too far and lifted it by levering with another screwdriver. Don't forget to tighten the two screws.
I turned the wheel so the second line was level and the bobbin holder was also not in the correct position. Loosened the two screws a little (they need to hold it lightly so you don't move it when you're re-tightening the screws). Here is where the bobbin holder should be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401959[/ATTACH]The needle aligns with the rear most hook tip. It really helped having a perfectly timed machine in the same room.
Putting the tension assembly back together was also a challenge. I started with the base (screw bit) and since I has already removed the whole thing, this had to be aligned to the same angle as the good one. I did this quite precisely by removing the end knob and putting a screwdriver in the little slot, then see where it points. With that done, I simply followed the instructions given by Singer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401960[/ATTACH]I was surprised to find this in the user manual. Extremely useful information.
After setting this, the machine now sews. I'm not sure why but it still isn't as good as the other, uncleaned one. The 'good' machine is very forgiving in that I can sit down without adjusting anything and can generally get a great stitch out of it. This one I had to fiddle with the tensions for a while just to get it to stitch properly. This reminds me, here are the bobbin tension instructions (I don't have 50 yards of fine silk, so had to approximate):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]401961[/ATTACH]
If you have any ideas about why it won't sew as well as the other one, I'm all ears.
Thanks
Mike
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