DonnaMiller

You would probably greatly benefit by getting a solid state foot controller from Sew-Classic.com. It was the best money I ever spent. Have them wire it for you. Yours sounds like it is a later addition and not original. The old ones get hot and are somewhat heavy. Contact Jenny at Sew-Classic.com and talk to her about price etc. It was pleasant surprise.
Donna

topstitch

I have the FW I bought in 1963. When purchasing it the salesman told me to make sure I turned the hand wheel by hand to begin stitching. After all these years, I have only had my machine in the shop to be greased and cleaned. Nothing major has ever gone wrong.

Jamesbeat

Don't worry too much about the lead, elemental (ie metallic) lead isn't really much of a hazard. It becomes more dangerous when it is in compounds such as oxides (used to be used in paints) because that increases the bioavailabilty.
There will be a thin oxide layer on the outside, but as long as you don't ingest it, you will be fine.

In other words: touch it all you want, but thoroughly wash your hands afterwards.

Mariah

Bet if you took it to a repairman who is knowledgeable in featherweights, he could get it all tuned up and you wouldn't have any more trouble.
When we bought mine 10 yrs. ago, it had been restored and fine-tuned. Then the bobbin wasn't quite right so I took it to a repairman who understood these machines very well. When he was done with it, it has run perfectly ever since, and that is 10 yrs. ago.
They just need a few 'final touches.'
Mariah

Bobquilts

Change the motor brushes --- if you don't know or cannot find out how to do it, have someone do it for you. Also,like someone else said --- make sure the belt isn't too tight.

Bobquilts

What is the 'stuff' ,that you are calling frayed, made of? Is it wire or a sort of fabric? IF it's wire --- DO NOT PLUG this machine in again until a professional looks it over. If it feels like a fabric/wrapping material,( test/feel it while UNPLUGGED ) it isn't the source of your problem. Doesn't sound like the foot pedal either, I'd vote on the brushes like I said before.

manicmike

Replacement foot controllers (brand new) are only $40 in Australia which usually translates to about $20-$30 in the US. They're very easy to wire up, and if you have an original for the featherweight it'll probably get you $10-$15 even if it's not working.

Roberta

I'm going to follow the advice of several restorers on this Board about a question I posted last week but I have a question. When I oil and grease the machine, this is the one that's been sitting unused for a year or so, where do I buy the oil and grease? Is Singer sewing machine oil acceptable and I haven't a clue where to buy "grease".

Roberta

barny

You can get lubricant "grease" at Singer. I don't know about the old oil. I usually keep fairly new stuff on hand. I'm now using Tri-Flow oil and lubricant. I love it. It is really good stuff.

dwerther

Donna - You need to do a little more testing and answer questions that have already been asked to zero in on the problem. You were asked if the motor hums when you step on the foot controller. The answer could be important.

You say that when you step on the foot controller the motor does not run. Does it do this every single time or just sometimes? If sometimes, how many times in between? One time out of 5? 10? 20?

Does it make any difference how much load is on the motor? In other words, do you get the same results with the stop motion knob released? How about taking the belt off the motor? Same result?

Have you tried a different foot controller? Same result?

If the problem is not in the foot controller check the clamping nuts on the back of the plug socket to make sure they are tight. Check to make sure the split posts in the plug socket on the machine are making a good connection with the plug on the foot controller. Spread them SLIGHTLY if necessary.

If all that checks out the problem is in the motor. First order would be to remove the brushes and clean or replace, as has been suggested. If that doesn't work, disassemble the motor and remove the armature, being careful to note the location of washers on the shaft and not to lose them. Clean the commutator ring on the armature. CAREFUL conditioning of the commutator ring will help if it is really dark. Clean the rest of the motor as best you can. Lube and reassemble. If the problem persists it is most likely a dead/shorted segment in the commutator ring or stator windings. Trust me, it is much less costly to buy a used take-off motor than to try to have your motor rewound or armature repaired.

If all the above is a foreign language to you then find someone who is well-versed in FW motor repairs. Don't go filing on that commutator ring if you don't know what you are doing.

Bottom line is if the motor won't start without a nudge every time or more often than you are willing to live with then it is motor replacement time.

David Werther
www.quilters-Connection.com