Cleaning and repairing the shellac clear coat on vintage sewing mcahines
10-29-2013, 12:11 PM
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 670
Dear Glenn, Thanks for this tutorial. I am preparing to possibly do this to my F & R handcrank, which is now working beautifully mechanically, but has rough spots where I can see shellac flaking up, mostly gone, some remaining. If I could possibly ask a few questions to clarify, I would really appreciate your wisdom...
1) I have some "Circa 1850" food-grade wood-finishing oil, sold at Lee Valley; it does not list its ingredients, only to say it is pure oil, no other ingredients. It is quite a viscous oil, as compared with tung oil, for example. Do you think it is okay to use this instead of the linseed oil? (I would love to be able to use what I have, and not purchase more bottles of stuff!)
2) I have some stick shellac; I have used this in other applications, but never for wood finishing etc. Am I correct that I simply crush it up and stir with alcohol in order to make liquid shellac?
3) The rubbing alcohol, I thought, would take off decals; I presume this is why you say just to go over the rough spots and avoid the decals?
4) Naptha, won't this also take off decals? I was wondering how to clean off the gunk (sewing machine oil, wax, etc) which is on the machine now, and then I read your recommendation of naptha; I do have some white gasoline at my disposal, however, could you please advise me as to what -not- to do with it, in terms of wrecking the decals and finish? I am confused because I thought that naptha was to be kept far far away from a decalled/japanned finish.
Many thanks in advance, if you are able to advise.
-Cecilia.
1) I have some "Circa 1850" food-grade wood-finishing oil, sold at Lee Valley; it does not list its ingredients, only to say it is pure oil, no other ingredients. It is quite a viscous oil, as compared with tung oil, for example. Do you think it is okay to use this instead of the linseed oil? (I would love to be able to use what I have, and not purchase more bottles of stuff!)
2) I have some stick shellac; I have used this in other applications, but never for wood finishing etc. Am I correct that I simply crush it up and stir with alcohol in order to make liquid shellac?
3) The rubbing alcohol, I thought, would take off decals; I presume this is why you say just to go over the rough spots and avoid the decals?
4) Naptha, won't this also take off decals? I was wondering how to clean off the gunk (sewing machine oil, wax, etc) which is on the machine now, and then I read your recommendation of naptha; I do have some white gasoline at my disposal, however, could you please advise me as to what -not- to do with it, in terms of wrecking the decals and finish? I am confused because I thought that naptha was to be kept far far away from a decalled/japanned finish.
Many thanks in advance, if you are able to advise.
-Cecilia.
10-30-2013, 01:04 PM
#62
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Dear Glenn, Thanks for this tutorial. I am preparing to possibly do this to my F & R handcrank, which is now working beautifully mechanically, but has rough spots where I can see shellac flaking up, mostly gone, some remaining. If I could possibly ask a few questions to clarify, I would really appreciate your wisdom...
1) I have some "Circa 1850" food-grade wood-finishing oil, sold at Lee Valley; it does not list its ingredients, only to say it is pure oil, no other ingredients. It is quite a viscous oil, as compared with tung oil, for example. Do you think it is okay to use this instead of the linseed oil? (I would love to be able to use what I have, and not purchase more bottles of stuff!)
2) I have some stick shellac; I have used this in other applications, but never for wood finishing etc. Am I correct that I simply crush it up and stir with alcohol in order to make liquid shellac?
3) The rubbing alcohol, I thought, would take off decals; I presume this is why you say just to go over the rough spots and avoid the decals?
4) Naptha, won't this also take off decals? I was wondering how to clean off the gunk (sewing machine oil, wax, etc) which is on the machine now, and then I read your recommendation of naptha; I do have some white gasoline at my disposal, however, could you please advise me as to what -not- to do with it, in terms of wrecking the decals and finish? I am confused because I thought that naptha was to be kept far far away from a decalled/japanned finish.
Many thanks in advance, if you are able to advise.
-Cecilia.
1) I have some "Circa 1850" food-grade wood-finishing oil, sold at Lee Valley; it does not list its ingredients, only to say it is pure oil, no other ingredients. It is quite a viscous oil, as compared with tung oil, for example. Do you think it is okay to use this instead of the linseed oil? (I would love to be able to use what I have, and not purchase more bottles of stuff!)
2) I have some stick shellac; I have used this in other applications, but never for wood finishing etc. Am I correct that I simply crush it up and stir with alcohol in order to make liquid shellac?
3) The rubbing alcohol, I thought, would take off decals; I presume this is why you say just to go over the rough spots and avoid the decals?
4) Naptha, won't this also take off decals? I was wondering how to clean off the gunk (sewing machine oil, wax, etc) which is on the machine now, and then I read your recommendation of naptha; I do have some white gasoline at my disposal, however, could you please advise me as to what -not- to do with it, in terms of wrecking the decals and finish? I am confused because I thought that naptha was to be kept far far away from a decalled/japanned finish.
Many thanks in advance, if you are able to advise.
-Cecilia.
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10-30-2013, 01:56 PM
#63
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
This machine looks like Glenn already got to it....
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/hsh/4161527786.html
[ATTACH=CONFIG]444092[/ATTACH]
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/hsh/4161527786.html
[ATTACH=CONFIG]444092[/ATTACH]
10-28-2014, 10:33 AM
#66
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Mendocino County CA
Posts: 1,976
OK Glenn, I am reading and practicing this in my mind, gearing up to try it. I have some questions for you. * I have a sick grandbaby today, so it won't be today.
1. I read I should wipe the machine down with Naptha before starting. Won't this damage the decals if the clear coat has failed?
1.a After the alcohol and linseed oil and I have waited a day, do I need to wipe down with the Naptha again before the next step?
2. My machine has large bubbles in the clear coat and some are cracking and bits flaking off. Should I rub them to remove any bits first or will the alcohol melt it in and help it blend?
3. Do you do the whole machine? Even the belt guard part? How do you get things smoothed into little corners?
1. I read I should wipe the machine down with Naptha before starting. Won't this damage the decals if the clear coat has failed?
1.a After the alcohol and linseed oil and I have waited a day, do I need to wipe down with the Naptha again before the next step?
2. My machine has large bubbles in the clear coat and some are cracking and bits flaking off. Should I rub them to remove any bits first or will the alcohol melt it in and help it blend?
3. Do you do the whole machine? Even the belt guard part? How do you get things smoothed into little corners?
10-28-2014, 11:02 AM
#67
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
Naptha will not hurt the decals. After the alcohol and linseed treatment and if you are going to follow this with the shellac french polish no need to wipe it down with naptha again. The alcohol and linseed treatment should reduce the appearance of the bubbles and blend them in. This will take some time so go slow. I do the entire machine and use Q-tip for the corners and tight places.
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10-28-2014, 11:50 AM
#68
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Mendocino County CA
Posts: 1,976
Naptha will not hurt the decals. After the alcohol and linseed treatment and if you are going to follow this with the shellac french polish no need to wipe it down with naptha again. The alcohol and linseed treatment should reduce the appearance of the bubbles and blend them in. This will take some time so go slow. I do the entire machine and use Q-tip for the corners and tight places.
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