LivelyLady

My friend has a 6700p Janome and is having a problem fmq. The top thread tension is causing the top thread to show on the back. We tried everything we could think of from making sure we had the right weight thread in bobbin and needle and the right size needle. We have gone through everything a hundred times it seemed like, but to no avail. Has anyone else ever had this problem, and if so, how did you correct it? And hints are most appreciated.

mkc

If top thread is showing on the back, the top tension is too loose relative to the bobbin tension.

Make sure the top thread is snapped between the tension disks - floss it back and forth (do this with the presser foot up to make sure you're between the disks (also make sure it's threaded correctly). If that isn't the issue, try tightening the upper tension.

Tartan

Sounds like the bobbin thread may be too tight and is pulling the top thread down. Take a picture of the bobbin screw position before turning it a bit at a time. If that isn’t the problem, you have the picture to turn the screw back to where it started.

SuzSLO

HollyAnne Knight at String and Story has a blog/video on tension on DSMs: https://www.stringandstory.com/blog/...wto?rq=Tension

She covers tension in even greater detail in her excellent Free Motion Quilting Academy online class, but she is not enrolling a new cohort until next September. Hope the blog helps.

LAF2019

if it isn't "eyelashing" on the back, I wouldn't worry about the tension. I find it nearly impossible to get the threads to lock between the layers unless using double or really thick batting. If you don't have eyelashes, then you won't really notice the top thread poking through the bottom if your bobbin thread and top thread are the same.

sewingsuz

Thanks for the great video suzslo.

Peckish

You state that the tension is off, yet "adjusted tension" is not one of the things is not in the list of remedies you guys have tried yet. How come? That would be the first thing I'd do.

quiltedsunshine

Also check to see if there is any scaring on the bobbin basket, which can be polished off with a very fine sandpaper (about 400-600 grit). It only takes a few gentle strokes. And I find that a polyester thread behaves much better than cotton thread when FMQ-ing. A top-stitch needle (size 90 or 100) has a deeper groove in the front and a larger, smoother eye, so is a great needle for FMQ-ing.

Lady Diana

I learned in my FMQ boot camp, class, if your straight stitch has no tension problems, then don't mess with your tension. The culprit is the matching of needle to thread, or user error. I brought a brand new machine to class. I FMQ'd The day before the class, it was perfect. But I choose a new thread for the class and after several jams and broken needle, the instructor sat with me to see what was happening. I was doing everything right, and my Machine was threaded properly. After 10 minutes of continued issues, the instructor took my thread off the holder and turned the cone upside down, inside the cone WAS PRINTED the needle recommendation. Microtex 90/14. Luckily the shop sponsoring the boot camp had one packet of Microtex that I needed. Changed out the needle, no problems at all the remainder of the class. From that point on, I always check my stitching with straight stitch before doing FMQ. Best wishes with the Janome 6700. Great machine. Love Janomes.
The one I took to class was the 8900.

sewingpup

What color threads are you using? Even on my long arm which has great tension, I try and use the same or near the same color on the top and bottom. There is also a few places where the top thread may be pulled a bit to the back and where the bobbin thread may be pulled the top. Usually, you don't notice after washing but it is just easier to match the two or at least get close.