mikep

I'm using a Pfaff grand quilter on a frame, and when I push the machine away from me (standing closest to the needle end of the machine) the machine immediately starts skipping stitches and it also often breaks the top thread. Moving the machine right/left (what would normally be standard forward/reverse sewing) or pulling it toward me (causing the tip of the needle to bend toward the throat of the machine) all sew perfectly. I'm confident that the tension is OK.

I'm using 50/2 Aurifil. HLX5 #11/75 needle. The material is a bit stiff. It is practice material that I was using before starting on my quilt.

I'm thinking that the cause is the needle bending in an abnormal direction. My thoughts were to try a thicker needle to get less flex. What needle size gives you good results? Would thicker thread help - say Aurifil 40? Is there anything to adjust or check on the machine that could be causing this? I don't see any burrs on the bobbin hook.

Tartan

​The good news is it is still sewing perfectly. I know they make titanium sewing machine needles but I don't know if they make them for long arms. Hopefully someone that has your set up will have some hints.

QKO

If it's the 9 inch harp machine it uses a regular domestic machine needle. The best I've found for fmq are the Superior Titanium Topstich needles made by Organ. The 80/12 size would be correct for a 50 wt thread. The topstitch needles have a deeper throat groove and a bigger eye - this makes them less likely to snag the thread and makes the thread "flow" more smoothly.

You may also be unconsciously pushing harder when sewing away from you. Try to focus on sewing the same speed at all directions. Don't grip the handles too hard. Other things to try - increase your machine speed and/or slow down your machine movement.

Candace

Use fabric that is the same weight as your project or you'll not get an accurate test. I think your needle is a bit small for your 3 layers. Try a larger needle.

leatheflea

I would go to a 16 needle. If you slow down sometimes you can use the smaller needles, I do it all the time but only when needed such as finicky fabric.

mikep

Thanks for the suggestions. Tonight I plan to first try a larger needle, change the fabric and pay attention to my speed. I really hope one of those fixes my problem! I'm convinced that needle flex is the root of the problem.

I don't think it's the speed because it starts to skip stitches immediately when I push away from me, and it will fail to make any stitches until I stop moving in that direction. Sewing at any angle away from me gives unpredictable stitches, with straight away being the absolute worst!

Prism99

Try setting your tensions according to this Jamie Wallen video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1mRhcquZTM . When you have skipped stitches in just one direction like this, my best guess is the tension settings. The stress put on the thread changes with changes in direction, so your tension settings may be fine for all but the one direction. Of course, you need a tension setting that works for all directions.

Also, I would try a stronger thread (such as Auriful 40wt) and definitely a larger needle (at least size 16). Frame quilting puts different stresses on the needle and thread than fmq in place. How taut or loose is your quilt sandwich? A common mistake is to make the quilt too tight on the frame; rule-of-thumb is to be able to grab a finger pushed up from underneath the quilt. Also, different machines prefer the quilt at a different distance from the base. Mine likes the quilt riding on the base (but not dragging from the takeup roll); others prefer the quilt to ride 1/4" above the base.

I would also recommend making just one change at a time and then test after that change so you know immediately if something has a strong positive effect (or if you have introduced a new problem).

QKO

With the Grand Quilter on the frame, the needle is threaded from front to back, as viewed from the front end of the machine. So when you're pushing the machine toward the back, the thread is actually coming out from "behind" the needle and feeding around the needle toward the front as the machine moves away from you. (You need to visualize this.) That means there is far more tension on the thread in that direction, as it has to feed through the eye toward the back and then pull around to the front as the machine moves toward the back. This creates a lot more stress on the thread in that direction than the other directions.

That's why you will want, not necessarily a larger needle, but a needle with a larger eye and a better guide groove to let the thread flow better. Thus the recommendation for a topstitch needle, and one that is "slipperier" thus the recommendation for a titanium coated needle. Going to an extra large needle for the thread size, like a 16 for a 50 wt thread may or may not give you a bigger eye but it may introduce other issues.

Like the other poster said though, always just make one change at a time and test between each one.

kristakz

I use an 18 needle now. 16 was working for me, until I broke one I think I mucked the timing a bit, because after that my 16 needle was just like you - thread breaking all the time, and skipping stitches when moving towards the back. Prior to the breakage I had some issues, but infrequently.

But going up to an 18 needle solved ALL my problems (phew) so I don't need to have my machine re-timed after all. Three quilts completed now (since then) without a single thread breakage or skipped stitch. By thread is Golden Threads Quilters Choice.

mikep

I ran across that video several months ago, and since then I have been setting my tension following that method for all of my sewing. I like the stitches that I get with the looser bobbin tension where the thread glides out of the bobbin, rather than having enough tension to pick up the bobbin. I think my tension is OK.

My fabric is probably too tight, in the frame.

I like the the idea of changing one thing at a time. I'm going to:

1) switch size 14 needle, large eye (I don't have any 16, but I'll get some)
2) loosen fabric on takeup bar
3) adjust the distance between the fabric and the bed of the machine
4) thicker thread (Aurifil 40)
5) change to a softer top/bottom fabric to match the fabric used for the quilt
6) size 16 needle once I get some
7) play with the thread tension

I'll post the results. Any guesses as to which step will get out of my current predicament?