Waal

I use a lot of Maxi-Loc thread in both my domestic and long arm machines. Hardly ever have any problems with either of them. I have a Viking machine and use all kinds of thread with it and never have any problems. I tried using Superior thread on my long arm, and had a lot of problems with it. So I basically stick with Maxi-Loc for my long arm (APQS) machine.

Battle Axe

Don't know about LA threads, but on my Bernina 1020 I was having a great deal of trouble breaking thread using Coats and Clark. I was told it was the humidity and the winding tension when the thread was being made. The humidity made it unwind. They had me switch to Gutterman and problem was solved.

Jordan

My Janome does not like the polyester threads so I have been using Aurifil 50 wt. and it works great. So sorry you are having so much trouble. Please don't get discouraged and hopefully you can find a thread that your machine likes. This is more common I think than anyone knows. Good luck to you.

CanoePam

If you get comfortable in adjusting tension and choosing the right needle, your machine will like a lot more threads. Some machines are adjusted at the manufacturer or repair shop to a certain thread, and if you want something else you might need to adjust the needle and bobbin tension. It is a myth that a machine has “automatic tension” and it is also a myth that you can’t adjust the bobbin tension, I am not saying you shouldn’t be careful, but if you know what you are doing it will be fine. I have had Vikings and Berninas, and I have adjusted the top and bobbin on both though it is easier on the removable bobbin cases like the Bernina has. It is one of the reason I prefer front loading bobbins to top loading, but it can be done on either. I use invisible, metallics, cottons, polys, in various weights.

Sharon5012

Waal, do you mean Maxi-lock serger thread in your long arm? Or is there another kind of Maxi-lock?
Thanks, Sharon

L'il Chickadee

Yes, I recently had trouble using a monofilament on my Bernina 830. I followed the tips on this website and it was some help but still very frustrating. https://www.generations-quilt-patter...rnina-820.html
Finally went back to my Bernina 430 and it worked just fine. My conclusion: sometimes it's just the machine. Never did figure out the problem with the Bernina 830.
As others have said; I also think poorly wound bobbins can be a common cause of stitching problems. Why? While participating in a quilt class a lady came in to the store and was quite upset that her machine wasn't stitching properly. She decided to walk into a class while in session, set her Singer down and relate her tale of woe. Being nosy and because she had paid to have the machine serviced the day before and things were now getting a bit tense, I asked to see the bobbin and noticed that it had stress cracks. It was a plastic bobbin. The bobbin was also wound a bit wobbly. On a whim, or maybe from years of sewing and subconsciously gained knowledge, I suggested she try a new bobbin. She changed to another bobbin and Voila!, the machine ran just fine.

Iceblossom

To reinforce Cash's Mom post, sometimes it is the thread itself and not the cone or whatever.

If you return everything back to normal and put in a different thread, (strong suggestion: time for a test sandwich of the same batting, and similar backing/top fabrics) is it better? Sometimes it is a clear answer that, yeah, it was the thread all along and nothing you are going to do is likely to make it any better. If you absolutely positively have to use that thread, try a couple more things. First off, is it worse on one side or the other, or what do you see as the issue for the skips. Then try reversing the direction of the thread. So if you think it is what is coming off the cone, take another bobbin and thread and use that as your top spool. If you think it is the bobbin, rewind a bobbin onto a fresh bobbin. Label everything and see if there is a combination that is better.

If not we have to look at other issues, whether that is needle size, type, etc. Or maybe a machine issue, most likely just an adjustment (or sometimes a good bobbin case area cleaning can clear up any number of issues).

By any chance is your thread black or at least a dark color? I've been told that black thread is often over-runs or bad colors from other dye lots and have been worked and reworked and dyed several times. So I don't know if it is just a self fulfilling prophecy, but I do seem to have a lot more problems with bad thread the darker it is...

You didn't mention a long arm and so I'm assuming a domestic machine and that there are no encoders or anything that need cleaning. Are you using any sort of special feet, or something like my BSR (bernina stitch regulator) that might have a tiny laser or sensor?

Iceblossom

Oh! Silly me confession time: One time I spent quite a lot more time FMQ than it should have to realize that something wasn't right at all... turns out I forgot to put the foot down... there were some stitches and I was focused on what was ahead of me and I wasn't watching the disaster behind me.

As we are ruling out things, I always reset my foot to make sure it is on correctly, and then you have adjusted the pressure/height to work with your batting/fabric combination?

Grammahunt

Machines have personalities all their own,. I have a machine (HV Designer SE) that does not like Coats and Clarks, yet my other HV (Diamond) sews it with ease. My HandiQuilter 710 is picky about the brand of needle I use. I've always found it to be so that each machine has it's own peculiarities.

grannie cheechee

I like pre-wound bobbins, but only the Superior Brand with the cardboard sides that you remove. I tried the plastic sided pre-wound that someone had given me. My machines did NOT Like them at all. You should have seen the messes on my seams.