Piecing with fine polyester thread
08-22-2021, 09:56 AM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,383
Originally Posted by JanieW
Absolutely. I also think that polyester thread from several years ago and the quality polyester thread made now are two different animals. I love 100 wt wonderfil and Superior microquilter ( using the correct size needle) for piecing and quilting. It’s great for SITD as it melts into the seam and I can’t tell where I didn’t stay in the ditch. I have used it for an edge to edge design when I wanted the piecing to be the star. It doesn’t cut my fabric.
I think we all tend to stick to what has worked for us but like onebyone said when we educate ourselves and learn about the myths it can open up a whole bunch of new things to try that might be even better than what we have been doing.
I think we all tend to stick to what has worked for us but like onebyone said when we educate ourselves and learn about the myths it can open up a whole bunch of new things to try that might be even better than what we have been doing.
08-23-2021, 07:33 AM
#23
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Va.
Posts: 5,752
You can tell if old thread is ok to use by giving it a tug. If it breaks, don't use it. Thread can be damaged by exposure to moisture and light. I use very old thread (some of it still on wooden spools) all the time for decorative purposes and also for piecing. I give it the tug test. Sometimes the thread on the outside is bad, but what is underneath it is good. Again, tug on it. You'll know immediately if it's dry rotted, etc. I don't use thread that is mildewed or dirty, but I do check what's underneath the first couple of layers to see if it is salvageable.
I also have sewn with Dual Duty, the old Coats, the old Clarks, various no name brands that are out of business, etc. and they all worked well. That said, some of the older polyester threads tend to melt if ironed on cotton setting, but the newer ones seem okay at higher temps. I often piece with Bottom Line thread or with Coats and Clarks 100 wt. poly embroidery bobbin thread and they both hold up to ironing at cotton temps.
Rob
I also have sewn with Dual Duty, the old Coats, the old Clarks, various no name brands that are out of business, etc. and they all worked well. That said, some of the older polyester threads tend to melt if ironed on cotton setting, but the newer ones seem okay at higher temps. I often piece with Bottom Line thread or with Coats and Clarks 100 wt. poly embroidery bobbin thread and they both hold up to ironing at cotton temps.
Rob
08-23-2021, 07:56 AM
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,789
Originally Posted by Onebyone
The more I educated myself about fabric, batting, stitching, and thread I have learned many of the quilting truths I have been told are not true or just plain silly.
08-23-2021, 08:03 AM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,053
Originally Posted by Kindascrappy
This 80wt thread is the bomb! I can’t even feel it in the seam at all, and my blocks are flat. There’s just one problem, I’m having trouble seeing it.
In my scrappy style of sewing typically I use a camel/light tan thread and a medium to light slate blue/gray, one each top and bottom. Both of those colors tend to disappear the best, and usually I can at least see the thread line if not the individual stitches on one side or the other.
