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    Old 03-24-2018, 04:34 AM
      #11  
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    I took a class with artist David Taylor last summer and he suggested turning a seam allowance under before appliqueing with invisible thread. He also suggested a stitch that takes a few straight stitches and then a small zig zag into the applique piece. I don't know what it's called, but it works very well.
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    Old 03-24-2018, 07:27 AM
      #12  
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    There are a lot of really good uses for 'invisible' thread (and it comes in clear-clear and a dark-clear for use on darker fabrics). Having said that, let me add a word of caution. It is like thin fishing line, it is hard to break. So, if a thread comes loose, it can stay put and wrap around tiny baby fingers and toes and strangle them. I never use this thread on anything I am giving to a child.
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    Old 03-24-2018, 09:22 AM
      #13  
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    I think the stitch that Mkotch is referring to is a blind hem stitch. It's what I use rather than a zigzag or straight outline.
    Just be aware that even though the thread is almost invisible the large needle leaves a large hole, not so bad on some fabrics but really noticeable on tighter weaves like batiks.
    I sometimes use the darker and the clear IV thread in the same piece, switching when the thread itself shows more than I like.
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    Old 03-24-2018, 09:52 AM
      #14  
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    Thanks everyone..... I guess it's like most things. trial and error after you get advice. My applique is looking better with practice.
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    Old 03-24-2018, 10:55 AM
      #15  
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    I use it for Invisible Machine Applique. Regular cotton thread in the bobbin, invisible thread on top, blind hem stitch adjusted to take just a wee 'bite' into the applique piece while stitched right next to it. The stitches will look something like ---^---^---^

    I've been happy with YLI monofil. thread and more recently a polyester thread. Good results with both.

    Good luck!
    Donna Mc
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    Old 03-25-2018, 05:10 AM
      #16  
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    I like the Superior threads monopoly thread the best. It comes in clear and smoke. I am currently working on an applique project with it. I have to tighten my upper tension a little bit. My machine works best with regular thread in the bobbin. Use a really fine needle, I use a 60/8, it makes smaller holes in the fabric and helps to keep the bobbin from pulling up to the top.
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    Old 03-25-2018, 08:10 AM
      #17  
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    Originally Posted by MaryKatherine
    I think the stitch that Mkotch is referring to is a blind hem stitch. It's what I use rather than a zigzag or straight outline.
    Just be aware that even though the thread is almost invisible the large needle leaves a large hole, not so bad on some fabrics but really noticeable on tighter weaves like batiks.
    I sometimes use the darker and the clear IV thread in the same piece, switching when the thread itself shows more than I like.
    Yes, that is usually called a blind hem stitch. To avoid leaving large holes, you can always use a 70/10 or 60/8 needle.
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    Old 03-25-2018, 02:31 PM
      #18  
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    I found another use for invisible thread. When our Guild held a quilt show, we had to put hanging sleeves on our quilts. I was very very nervous about using safety pins to hold up a king sized quilt with a 4 inch wide sleeve. Instead, I put invisible thread in my bobbin and raised my stitch length to its longest. I sewed the hanging sleeves to the quilts, no one could see the stitching from the front, and I knew that the quilts would be secure when they were hung up. Taking the sleeves off after the show was a breeze because of the big stitch length.
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    Old 03-25-2018, 11:02 PM
      #19  
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    I use the invisible thread for satin stitch applique, yes, even for baby quilts. I also do this so there is very little chance of a baby getting fingers or toes caught in the invisible thread. I pull the thread through to the wrong side and tie it both at the beginning and at the end of that particular section of stitching. I do NOT rely on the machine to tie the threads -- I make sure the thread is tied on the wrong side of the block to which the applique is being attached. I have no problem pressing the blocks either -- just do not use the hot setting on your iron.
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