Binding Question
01-12-2019, 08:11 AM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
If you fold your backing over to make the binding, after trimming the batt to be the same size as the top, cut the backing at least 1/4 inch wider than you need. Fold the backing over at the correct place and tuck the excess under the batt. That way, when you flip the binding to the front, there will be a double layer of fabric over the edge. You may need to undo a few quilting stitches to do that but that will be covered when the binding is flipped to the front.
The problem most people have with using the back for the binding is that they say there is now only one layer at the edge. Doing it this way solves that problem.
The problem most people have with using the back for the binding is that they say there is now only one layer at the edge. Doing it this way solves that problem.
01-13-2019, 07:12 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
Posts: 7,695
I am also a LA quilter but I have many uses for those strips of excess backing.
I don't cut down client quilts when they are completed so in those cases the client gets the excess back, still attached.
If a a backing is a tad too short for loading (have enough as a backing just lacking those few extra inches for attaching to the leaders), I use those cutoffs to add the needed length so I can attach to my leaders.
I've used them supplemented with another fabric to make a hanging sleeve.
Cut them into my binding (but like you I do prefer a bias binding if I have the extra fabric to make it or if I have curved edges)
Cut up into test squares and use them as my test areas off to the side when I am testing my tension. I test with every single bobbin change as well as color changes even if I never changed the thread type (IOW same brand and weight just a different color).
I do like scrap quilts so I also put them in my scrap pile and do use them a lot. I used a leftover batik backing as one of my lights in this quilt: Scrappy batik HST quilt . I save any strip I can get at least 1 1/2" wide out of.
Tear them into strips and use them tie up tomato plants in the summer.
I don't cut down client quilts when they are completed so in those cases the client gets the excess back, still attached.
If a a backing is a tad too short for loading (have enough as a backing just lacking those few extra inches for attaching to the leaders), I use those cutoffs to add the needed length so I can attach to my leaders.
I've used them supplemented with another fabric to make a hanging sleeve.
Cut them into my binding (but like you I do prefer a bias binding if I have the extra fabric to make it or if I have curved edges)
Cut up into test squares and use them as my test areas off to the side when I am testing my tension. I test with every single bobbin change as well as color changes even if I never changed the thread type (IOW same brand and weight just a different color).
I do like scrap quilts so I also put them in my scrap pile and do use them a lot. I used a leftover batik backing as one of my lights in this quilt: Scrappy batik HST quilt . I save any strip I can get at least 1 1/2" wide out of.
Tear them into strips and use them tie up tomato plants in the summer.
01-13-2019, 07:43 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: California
Posts: 441
I remember reading that binding on the straight of grain will fray sooner than binding cut on the bias, so I usually do bias on quilts I expect to be dragged around, like picnic, lap and baby quilts. Quilts that I think will be treated more gently, like bed quilts for adults, I have no problem using straight of grain for the binding. The only quilts I do a fold over from the back instead of a separate binding would be on wall hangings.
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