jeanne49

After using several different sizes of binding strips, I have found that 2 1/4" works best for me. I sew with a 1/4" seam and don't have a problem with the binding not being full. But I have found that when I used (notice the word USED) low loft polyester batting my edges were very limp. I only use Warm and Natural or others similar to it and never have problems with that type of batting. I have heard about leaving a little of the batting around the quilt when trimming, and also have heard of others who don't iron their binding in half. I'd be afraid then when trimming my edges I'd cut something I shouldn't. As for the ironing of the binding in half, I'd have to make a mental note NOT to, it just seems I'm on automatic drive when making binding. I love the binding part and to each his or her own on how they do it.

maviskw

I iron my bindings in half. Never had a problem, so I suppose I will continue to do that.

I trim the bulk of the extra batting and back, just so it is out of my way, leaving about an inch. Then sew the binding onto the quilt top with the 1/4 in. seam. We don't want to lose points. Leave that extra batt and back on.
When I come to a corner, I stop 1/4 inch from the edge of the quilt top, sew into the corner on the 45º angle, and LEAVE THE NEEDLE DOWN at the tip of the corner. That little extra batt and back will hold the quilt at the needle. Turn the quilt to sew the other side and PINCH the binding to form that fold at the corner. Lay the fold down so the edges are in the correct spots. Then lift the needle, move over to the sewing line and start sewing. No taking the quilt out of the machine, no starting a new line of sewing (with the possibility of thread nests).
After the binding is sewn on, lay the ruler on and trim to desired width with a rotary cutter. Do short segments at a time. You will be far enough away so you won't cut into the folds at the corners.

I have seen one quilt that actually had piping rope inserted into the binding to make a fat edge. Looked fine.

piecNpat

Me too! I totally agree.

Peckish

Try a ladder stitch.

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Peckish

And I don't understand how they can't be, lol!

When you flip the binding to the back for hand sewing, where does your crease land? Is that not where you hand-sew?

misseva

No, seriously Peckish, tell us how you feel about ironing our bindings in half. I'm a convert too. Read here on the Board to not do that (after all it does save a step) and tried it. It works.

rusty quilter

Not sure I understand...are you folding the 2" binding and top stitching? My binding techniques could use some help as well!

CanoePam

What finally works for me was serging the edges of the quilt before applying the binding. The thread in the serged edge gives stability to the quilt and makes it very easy for me to attach the binding.

Pam
Edit for autocorrect corrections!

ukdame

I never hand sew mitered corners. If the binding is placed using a traditional 2 1/2 inch wide strips ironed in half and sewn 1/4 inch from edges of trimmed sandwich, corners will be secure enough to be just left w/the tiny folded opening. Perhaps if finished binding needed is greater than 1/2 inch wide then maybe need securing but my stitches would always look very visible and not really necessary.

bearisgray

There is no law that says a binding has to be a certain width.

I like wider bindings (I usually cut them about 2-7/8 inches) and I am more comfortable using bias binding.

For me - pinning the edges together first to make sure that the binding lays "right" and then machine basting the edges of the binding together with a longish, narrow zigzag stitch is an important step for me. Otherwise, one edge would sometimes get away from me.

I trim my quilt sandwich to the finished size and also sew the edges together about 1/8 inch from the edge.

My reason for doing this is - I only have two things to match up then, instead of five.

I usually do a test run on a scrap sandwich using the same batting, etc. to verify settings and widths before i go very far down the road.

As far as bias binding using more fabric than straight cut binding - it takes so many square inches of fabric no matter which way it is cut. - okay, there might be a little bit of scrap at the corners, but not very much.

If I did use straight cut binding, I would use whichever way had more stretch - which is usually the width of fabric instead of lengthwise grain.

I did use T-shirt fabric once for a binding. Turned out great!