Did I Get Something Good????
08-19-2011, 08:41 AM
#65
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 1,420
Awesome! I love sewing on my featherweight.They're lightweight and easily taken to workshops. Clean her up a little, but be careful what you use on her. This is the information I was given about cleaning:
When I clean a featherweight for the first time, I use WD40, spraying it wherever oil is indicated. I use the instruction manual that came with the machine to be sure I don't miss anything. I let it sit for a 1/2 hour or so, then wipe it down well, being careful not to scratch anything. Next, I oil it then run it for a few minutes to distribute the oil. Put new lubricant into the two places that are indicated in the manual. I do not use oil in these places, but I understand from other people that if the machine is really dirty, really frozen up and won't run that a few drops of oil in the lube hole in the motor might be indicated. I'd put that question out on FW Fanatics if you think it's necessary to use oil where only the lube is indicated.
If there's anything like tape on the machine, I use lighter fluid to clean it off. It will clean sticky residue on the machine or the case. It's just dry cleaning fluid.
After cleaning the case using Clorox wipes, I usually put it outside in the sun with the lid open for a few days. In the high altitude and dry environment here in New Mexico, it will kill any mold that might be lurking inside. When I bring it inside, I polish the case with Kiwi Leather Scuff Cover shoe polish. Just roll it on, let it dry and the buff with a soft dry cloth. A final coat of Armor All will give the case a nice shine. On the older cases with leather handles, I use a mink oil to condition the leather. This comes from a shoe repair shop. If the lining needs gluing, I use common white glue, such as Elmer's.
I've had to touch up some scratches that went through the black japan finish on the 221. As Nancy Johnson-Srebro writes in her book, Featherweight 221, The Perfect Portable, try the high gloss black touch-up paint sold in General Motors dealerships. She suggests part #12345495, Group 8.800. The exact color is: Black - Code 41/44 = WACC95888. I also have used a black permanent marker to touch up some minor scratches. Use this before waxing.
She also suggests just using a high quality carnauba car wax without any abrasive in it. She warns that the long-term effects might be seen with any newer car polishes with time.
However, to polish the featherweight, I use Maguire's Scratch X Fine Scratch and Swirl Remover to polish it, and then I wax it with Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Paste Car Wax. I bought both at Wal-Mart and have not had any difficulty with it. I have used it on more than a couple of dozen machines without problems. I've read on FW Fanatics that a plain paste wax for shoes will work well also. Somewhere, I read that to make any machine perform better when doing free motion quilting, the bed should be waxed with any good carnauba car wax.
Have fun with her!!
When I clean a featherweight for the first time, I use WD40, spraying it wherever oil is indicated. I use the instruction manual that came with the machine to be sure I don't miss anything. I let it sit for a 1/2 hour or so, then wipe it down well, being careful not to scratch anything. Next, I oil it then run it for a few minutes to distribute the oil. Put new lubricant into the two places that are indicated in the manual. I do not use oil in these places, but I understand from other people that if the machine is really dirty, really frozen up and won't run that a few drops of oil in the lube hole in the motor might be indicated. I'd put that question out on FW Fanatics if you think it's necessary to use oil where only the lube is indicated.
If there's anything like tape on the machine, I use lighter fluid to clean it off. It will clean sticky residue on the machine or the case. It's just dry cleaning fluid.
After cleaning the case using Clorox wipes, I usually put it outside in the sun with the lid open for a few days. In the high altitude and dry environment here in New Mexico, it will kill any mold that might be lurking inside. When I bring it inside, I polish the case with Kiwi Leather Scuff Cover shoe polish. Just roll it on, let it dry and the buff with a soft dry cloth. A final coat of Armor All will give the case a nice shine. On the older cases with leather handles, I use a mink oil to condition the leather. This comes from a shoe repair shop. If the lining needs gluing, I use common white glue, such as Elmer's.
I've had to touch up some scratches that went through the black japan finish on the 221. As Nancy Johnson-Srebro writes in her book, Featherweight 221, The Perfect Portable, try the high gloss black touch-up paint sold in General Motors dealerships. She suggests part #12345495, Group 8.800. The exact color is: Black - Code 41/44 = WACC95888. I also have used a black permanent marker to touch up some minor scratches. Use this before waxing.
She also suggests just using a high quality carnauba car wax without any abrasive in it. She warns that the long-term effects might be seen with any newer car polishes with time.
However, to polish the featherweight, I use Maguire's Scratch X Fine Scratch and Swirl Remover to polish it, and then I wax it with Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Paste Car Wax. I bought both at Wal-Mart and have not had any difficulty with it. I have used it on more than a couple of dozen machines without problems. I've read on FW Fanatics that a plain paste wax for shoes will work well also. Somewhere, I read that to make any machine perform better when doing free motion quilting, the bed should be waxed with any good carnauba car wax.
Have fun with her!!
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