Brass Head

Hi, Newbie here, so if I transgress some social norm let me know.

My wife loves all thing Swedish. Every so often she goes over to look at Swedish people, or something: I wouldn't know. I stay home and see to the dogs and chickens.

I have restored a couple of Husqvarnas for her, zig-zags with cams in sleek pea green metallic hiding delrin and nylon bits: not my favorites. Arriving tomorrow will be one I do like, a Model 12/cb-n with a 110v motor. 40's maybe. I can't find too much about it, though I do have a free pdf manual I printed out. I could well be wrong, but it looks like a pretty basic class 15 straight stitch. Probably does not have reverse (so what). Because I am a retired teacher, if I want nice stuff, I have to buy it in a state of ruination, and so it is here. It's an as-is, not working special with the electrical system (such as it is!) cut to pieces. Sounds like fun. The chrome (nickel?) and paint look pretty good, all the parts Seem to be there, and I believe I can get the mechanicals straightened out. As for parts, the old parts and a little brass shim stock will have to do.

If anyone has knowledge of this machine - idiosyncracies, tips, quirks - I'd love to hear. Thank you.

Brass Head

Got it today. Paint (dark green crackle, gold decals) and nickel are great. It's about half locked up, but all the bits are there. The motor - in its original crackled green case - turns under power but needs brushes (or a cleaned commutator) (My wife: "Why is the motor sparkling?") and oil (unless that doesn't do the trick and it needs bearings too: it rattles - I'm hoping it just needs the buffering effect of an oil film or the stabilizing effect of a little belt pull to abate that). There's quite a bit if axial play in the shaft: another job for brass shim stock, my fall back for so many problems?)All the electrical stuff is disassembled/cut up, but my ohmmeter says the pedal is working, the light/switch works (jammed the twisted wires into a socket: we've all done it). It needs the usual winder tire, belt, etc. The underparts: one cone bearing needs tightening up. Has a bobbincase (class 15, looks like), has a bobbin (looks like a later proprietary Husqvarna which might be the reason it wouldn't work, and why I got it for a reasonable cost). So it looks like it should be fun. Still would like to hear from anyone with experience. Also, wondering why somebody would cut up an electrical system - weird - maybe their lawyer told them to do it. I do hope to use that original pedal. I could use a light/motor double plug aftermarket or vintage Japanese or White Rotary rig on it, but if I can just make a new harness and use the original in all its crackled glory, assuming it's repairable, which I think it is, that'll make me happiest of all.

Mickey2

I'm in Norway, and I have seen a few CB-N 12 machines. They often have Electrolux motors in the same finish as the rest of the machine, often with higher amps than standard Singer motor. I guess Husqvarna had some kind of relation to Electrolux at the time. Somet times it's branded Husqvarna. I don't know if the bobbins are spot on class 15, but likely. One info page lists the bobbin as CB 20,5 x 11,5 (millimeter), and the race and hook system was according to the Sewalot site originally base on a Singer 15. This model were produced from 1934 to 1955, and they all had a stitch length lever with reverse. It came in a black finish, a rougher green paint, and later on in a more glossy green paint.


If I remember correctly, this model runs nice and smootly (nothing is quite as smooth as a Singer 201 if thats' your point of referance). I guess it's all about cleaning, oiling and replacing motor belt. Make sure the base of the machine is stable with new felt or rubber feet if they are missing. It might need adjustment underneath, the most common area that needs readjustment on a Husqvarna 12 is the feed dog part ( sort of roller cam like parts). There is a video on this. It's not often it's needed, but during a full service this should be checked. These old pedals are usually repairable, but check the wiring and check for capacitors and some have had the carbon discs out and carefully cleaned each of them before reassembling.

NZquilter

Welcome to the group! It sounds like you have a fun project ahead! Can you post pictures for us? We love oohing and ahhing over machines.

Brass Head

Here's a picture of our dining room table. My wife loves using the old machines, but she's a little less fond of this aspect of things.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]586044[/ATTACH]

leonf

Hi Brass Head. I'm just starting to lean my Husqvarna.[ATTACH=CONFIG]586046[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]586047[/ATTACH]

I can't off you any help, but welcome to QB.

Brass Head

Thank you for the helpful replies. I've got the motor right. Oiling fixed the rattle. there's still 5/8" or so of brush, and I erasered the commutator. It's running smoothly without all those alarming sparks! The machine is turning, but I haven't tried sewing yet. It makes a lovely quiet sound, the sort of sound no zig-zagger can make. I agree about the smoothness of the 201 - the top! I fixed up a 201 for my wife, and it's probably her favorite machine - so beautifully serene. We have a 101 as well, which works fine, but she has never taken to it for some reason. The feed dogs on the Viking are working a little anemically, but I'm sure there's a simple adjustment (I think I did see the video you mention, narrated by a Swedish woman?), and the teeth look fine. The stitch-length lever is awfully stiff. If it doesn't come around, I'll have to take that apart, I suppose. I went over the bobbin/case with my calipers and micrometer, comparing them to a generic class 15, and found differences I think are trivial. I'll try to get the original (?) working. One odd thing: from time to time I see a solid (no holes) seemingly class 15 bobbin, a tiny bit thicker, same diameter within a couple thousandths, and they hardly ever work right (I went through this with a Morse 4100 last week). The Viking has one of those. We'll see. I may just start chucking these oddball bobbins away (Well, I won't, of course: they'll get a drawer of their own and sit there for eternity "just in case.") All the electrical stuff seems fine, so I'll just solder up a new harness with that fake vintage wire and see how it goes. Thanks again, very much, for your interest.

Brass Head

The Husqvarna is very interesting. What sort of beast is it? It almost looks industrial. (The only H's I have known - before the latest arrival - are the 19/21 era, the pea green ones with lurking nylon and delrin - which my wife loves so much because she doesn't have to Work on them!)

leonf

It is an industrial. Model 27-20. Very little about it anywhere I have looked. I haven't found a bobbin carrier for it even.. that's why we don't throw away the weird bits. Not much invested and it gave me a good workout moving it around the housel.

Mickey2

I forgot to mention, there is a few parts behind the round lid in the back reaching the back side of the stitch length lever. i think it's sort of a groove it moves up and down in, squarish part. It's linked to and hinged to other parts there. What makes it sluggish could be any part in the link from the back there to the moving part under the feed dogs. Sometimes it takes a few days of oiling and test sewing the machine to free it up completely. I take several turns of cleaning and oiling before I start to think about consulting the service manual. I once had a 201 I thought was out of timing, I had cleaned and oiled it well several times over. Two weeks later and have the needle clamp off and discover the groove in the neelde bar is full of dirt and grime pushing the the needle more than slightly off it's mark. Simlar things happens all the time when cleaning up and old machine. My 201s wasn't even particularly dirty.