Help Old dog needs to learn new tricks
10-07-2018, 08:22 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 4
Help Old dog needs to learn new tricks
I need some help and advice. Years ago I took quilting lessons at the Quilted Apple in Phoenix which back then was a little red barn. We we're taught hand piecing and making your template with graph and sand paper. Hand piecing was so precise and it left the seams to where you could press how ever you wanted. We laid our template on the fabric and you could see the grain of the fabric so you could line it up with the grain. Then took a mechanical pencil and drew around the template and measured the quarter inch seem allowance and cut out with scissors. It was very easy to get seems to line up.
Some years later now I want to make a quilt or two and some of Jo Mortons small quilts. I have my cutting mat and rotary cutter and rulers. Just starting out straightening the fabric is kind of throwing me a little. I've watched you tube videos. I have a piece of Moda flannel and one selvage is longer than the other. I tried tearing it but it seemed harder to rip. I need some advice about this subject. Once I cut the edge lining up the lines on the ruler and cutting isn't too tough. I know to press the seems so the intersections lock together but so far I like to pin the intersecting seems to make sure they come together precisely.
Any advise would be helpful
Janice in Peoria Az
Some years later now I want to make a quilt or two and some of Jo Mortons small quilts. I have my cutting mat and rotary cutter and rulers. Just starting out straightening the fabric is kind of throwing me a little. I've watched you tube videos. I have a piece of Moda flannel and one selvage is longer than the other. I tried tearing it but it seemed harder to rip. I need some advice about this subject. Once I cut the edge lining up the lines on the ruler and cutting isn't too tough. I know to press the seems so the intersections lock together but so far I like to pin the intersecting seems to make sure they come together precisely.
Any advise would be helpful
Janice in Peoria Az
10-07-2018, 08:49 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 594
It is my understanding that in making pieced quilts, cutting on the straight grain of the fabric is not as important as if you were making a garment. Since you cut the fabric up in little pieces anyway, the grain of a particular piece may be pointing in any direction. Years ago I was taught to find the straight grain of the piece, trim the fabric on the grain and then try to even up the selvages from there. Sometimes impossible.
I just opened a jelly roll that doesn't have pinked edges, so it is clear whether it is cut with the grain or not. It not only isn't with the grain, it seems to be about 20 degrees off. Sheesh! All those little raw edges are waving like fringe. I don't think it will make a difference in the quilt, using them as they are. If I tried to cut them with the grain now, I would end up with about 1/2" strips rather than 2 1/2" strips.
So, just do the best you can. The flannel should probably be washed before cutting anyway. It might even up a bit after laundering, and show it's true self.
I just opened a jelly roll that doesn't have pinked edges, so it is clear whether it is cut with the grain or not. It not only isn't with the grain, it seems to be about 20 degrees off. Sheesh! All those little raw edges are waving like fringe. I don't think it will make a difference in the quilt, using them as they are. If I tried to cut them with the grain now, I would end up with about 1/2" strips rather than 2 1/2" strips.
So, just do the best you can. The flannel should probably be washed before cutting anyway. It might even up a bit after laundering, and show it's true self.
10-07-2018, 09:17 AM
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,067
When I was taught to sew back in the 70s it was beaten in my head to straighten the fabric and cut on the grain. I still do so, you tug on opposite corners if it is a manufacturer's defect or I do typically tear one edge. I've found that almost all fabric I buy is cut terribly off grain and I'll typically lose at least 2" on the wide end. For a good tear you need to have at least half an inch on the side you start the tear. Back when I was a child I was taught to pull a single thread out and then cut along that line but I can't see that any more!
I don't have really any experience with flannel so can't say anything directly about how it tears.
But as the Gnome said, it's not that big a deal any more. Most fabrics are solidly woven and using a proper machine stitch tension and length (small stitches for quilting) it isn't an issue. I've done enough fussy cutting over the years paying no attention to the grain lines and it all goes together well. Some people are a big believer in starching, I don't bother with that, just try to sew each piece "gently" and remember to let the machine do the work. If we are tugging and moving the fabric we are skewing it and building in ripples -- just let the machine do the intake and gently guide it into position.
One thing I have noticed, I have a lot more loose threads on me and that need to be removed from the quilt back than most people I know. I think that is a direct result of me being so true to grain. I'd like to give myself a bit more freedom but old dogs and all that!
One way to see if it is true enough is to cut a strip and then open it up to look at it. If you can't tell where the folds were you are good enough! If you get deep V's at the fold marks, not so good -- but of you are subcutting and it doesn't matter then it doesn't matter.
As a general tip for using the mats and rulers, you really don't want to use the lines on your mats they will wear out faster where you typically cut. Turn the mat over and use the back to cut on. Use your rulers (and it helps if they are all the same brand). There are videos that show the techniques much better than I can describe them!
Being right handed I have two basic choices, one is to cut going from left to right so my ruler shows my cutting line and is held down with me left hand, or I often cut from right to left using two rulers. One ruler measures the depth of the cut, the other ruler is the standard 6 (or 6.5) by 24" ruler. I slide the right ruler along the width I want, positioning and stabilizing the long ruler with my left hand. The second technique really works well when you have cuts wider than 6". If you have a fabric that is too close to the color of your mat, slip a piece of paper under the cut edge about half an inch. Obviously if you have a white mat you use a colored paper, if it is Olfa green white typing paper is awesome.
I don't have really any experience with flannel so can't say anything directly about how it tears.
But as the Gnome said, it's not that big a deal any more. Most fabrics are solidly woven and using a proper machine stitch tension and length (small stitches for quilting) it isn't an issue. I've done enough fussy cutting over the years paying no attention to the grain lines and it all goes together well. Some people are a big believer in starching, I don't bother with that, just try to sew each piece "gently" and remember to let the machine do the work. If we are tugging and moving the fabric we are skewing it and building in ripples -- just let the machine do the intake and gently guide it into position.
One thing I have noticed, I have a lot more loose threads on me and that need to be removed from the quilt back than most people I know. I think that is a direct result of me being so true to grain. I'd like to give myself a bit more freedom but old dogs and all that!
One way to see if it is true enough is to cut a strip and then open it up to look at it. If you can't tell where the folds were you are good enough! If you get deep V's at the fold marks, not so good -- but of you are subcutting and it doesn't matter then it doesn't matter.
As a general tip for using the mats and rulers, you really don't want to use the lines on your mats they will wear out faster where you typically cut. Turn the mat over and use the back to cut on. Use your rulers (and it helps if they are all the same brand). There are videos that show the techniques much better than I can describe them!
Being right handed I have two basic choices, one is to cut going from left to right so my ruler shows my cutting line and is held down with me left hand, or I often cut from right to left using two rulers. One ruler measures the depth of the cut, the other ruler is the standard 6 (or 6.5) by 24" ruler. I slide the right ruler along the width I want, positioning and stabilizing the long ruler with my left hand. The second technique really works well when you have cuts wider than 6". If you have a fabric that is too close to the color of your mat, slip a piece of paper under the cut edge about half an inch. Obviously if you have a white mat you use a colored paper, if it is Olfa green white typing paper is awesome.
10-07-2018, 09:52 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 4
Thanks for the help! I was looking at Jo Mortons first book on small quilts --When you machine piece you don't have the freedom with what directions all of your seams can be pressed. I see Jo snips some of her seams clear to the stitching line . Ugh That would make me nervous as to the strength of the seam being impaired. I always heard that your quilt is as good as the weakest thread. These quilter nowadays don't seem to care if they backstitch at the beginning and the end of a seam to lock the thread. I want things good and sturdy. I was at my quilt store the other day and there was a quilt hanging within reach and I felt of it and after being quilted it was pretty stiff. Any advice to getting a nice cozy feeling hugable quilt?
10-07-2018, 10:07 AM
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,067
I was self-taught quilting before the rotary cutting revolution. The books I had in the 70s were basically just black and white diagrams of the blocks and very little setting information, zero actual directions and no yardage/cutting information. As a result, I press my seams open figuring if it is good enough for garment construction and the wear and twisting that clothing/laundering takes it would be good enough for quilting. I've had zero issues pressing open (the fabric in the middle wears out long before the seams do) and although for the last 20 years I've tried embracing pressing to the side and just can't. It's lumpy. I don't like what happens when you have two white pieces sewn together. I'm more precise open.
I feel that pressing seams to the side is an artifact left over from hand sewing is not needed with machine sewing. Also, there was a period of time around the turn of the century when American fabrics were not very tightly woven and maybe it was needed due to flimsy fabric, then lesson was passed on to the next generation and so forth. We have electric power and irons now, they don't have to be heated on the stove any more...
The only time I backstitch is at mitered corners, otherwise I chain stitch all the pieces and trust in my small stitch length to not give me problems. I do a lot more pining than some people do, I feel I get better results. I use quilting pins perpendicular to the seam but well down below the seam allowance so the needle is nowhere near the pins.
As far as softness goes, all of my quilts are pretty stiff when first made. Takes about 3-5 washings and then they just get more comfortable as they age. One reason for stiffness is that with the advent of home Long Arm machines and wide throat machines, a lot of people do a lot of quilting and typically they do it on a pretty firm batting like warm and natural. I prefer a bit looser quilting and thicker/fluffy acrylic batts, but sometimes warm and natural is exactly what I want.
I feel that pressing seams to the side is an artifact left over from hand sewing is not needed with machine sewing. Also, there was a period of time around the turn of the century when American fabrics were not very tightly woven and maybe it was needed due to flimsy fabric, then lesson was passed on to the next generation and so forth. We have electric power and irons now, they don't have to be heated on the stove any more...
The only time I backstitch is at mitered corners, otherwise I chain stitch all the pieces and trust in my small stitch length to not give me problems. I do a lot more pining than some people do, I feel I get better results. I use quilting pins perpendicular to the seam but well down below the seam allowance so the needle is nowhere near the pins.
As far as softness goes, all of my quilts are pretty stiff when first made. Takes about 3-5 washings and then they just get more comfortable as they age. One reason for stiffness is that with the advent of home Long Arm machines and wide throat machines, a lot of people do a lot of quilting and typically they do it on a pretty firm batting like warm and natural. I prefer a bit looser quilting and thicker/fluffy acrylic batts, but sometimes warm and natural is exactly what I want.
10-07-2018, 10:11 AM
#6
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,407
I learned how to piece the same way you did - and it was a valuable class to me.
I still like to have my pieces cut so that the threads on the outside edges are parallel to the edges (on grain)
I think it matters - but many people say it matters not.
I also am adamant about washing everything washable before cutting it. (Except the thread - perhaps if I could figure out a "tolerable" way to do that, I probably would.) I have had enough unpleasant surprises to make it worth the effort for me. Others have said that they have never ever ever had any problems with using unwashed fabric.
If you wanted to, you could mark every seam so you stopped stitching 1/4 inch from the edge (like when hand piecing), Then you could hand tie the threads at the end of each stitching. I am not a fan of backstitching, because then I get a "wad" and never seem be able to stitch back "exactly" on the same stitching lines.
Different things matter to different people.
I do think quilts soften up with use and washing.
When chain-piecing, I sew air for about four stitches between each pair of patches - I feel that leaving a couple of stitches hanging between the pieces after clipping them apart makes them stay together better than when I clip the threads exactly at the edge of the fabric patches.
So far - you've seen several viewpoints on how to make a quilt -
It is also okay to mix methods on one top - example - some seams pressed open, some seams pressed to the side, etc.
I still like to have my pieces cut so that the threads on the outside edges are parallel to the edges (on grain)
I think it matters - but many people say it matters not.
I also am adamant about washing everything washable before cutting it. (Except the thread - perhaps if I could figure out a "tolerable" way to do that, I probably would.) I have had enough unpleasant surprises to make it worth the effort for me. Others have said that they have never ever ever had any problems with using unwashed fabric.
If you wanted to, you could mark every seam so you stopped stitching 1/4 inch from the edge (like when hand piecing), Then you could hand tie the threads at the end of each stitching. I am not a fan of backstitching, because then I get a "wad" and never seem be able to stitch back "exactly" on the same stitching lines.
Different things matter to different people.
I do think quilts soften up with use and washing.
When chain-piecing, I sew air for about four stitches between each pair of patches - I feel that leaving a couple of stitches hanging between the pieces after clipping them apart makes them stay together better than when I clip the threads exactly at the edge of the fabric patches.
So far - you've seen several viewpoints on how to make a quilt -
It is also okay to mix methods on one top - example - some seams pressed open, some seams pressed to the side, etc.
Last edited by bearisgray; 10-07-2018 at 10:19 AM.
10-07-2018, 10:15 AM
#7
Super Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 4,422
Put the two selvages together. Lay the fold line against one of the lines on the cutting mat. Then lay the ruler so the lines are matched up and cut. Just use the cutting mat lines as a reference point so you are cutting straight. Good enough to go!
Some tips!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVqqefuxa2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcpzwJMVTbc
Welcome to the boards!
Some tips!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVqqefuxa2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcpzwJMVTbc
Welcome to the boards!
10-07-2018, 10:16 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Portland, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 413
I am just in the process of sandwiching Blueberry Buckle from Jo Morton's book and it is done in flannel, with the exception of the centre square. When working with flannel, I always prewash because that stuff can shrink like crazy. I then take the time to square up the fabric and just go from there. I always pin even when my seams are nested. I'm always concerned that they will shift when sewing them. For really tricky ones, I glue baste it using a washable glue stick. If I have enough fabric, I increase my seam allowance to almost 1/2" since I find that flannel tends to fray a little more than some other fabric. I am not a fan of dense quilting, especially for quilts meant for warmth - I like to be able to "cocoon". My backing is also flannel and so I do have that super-soft feel. Good luck with the quilt. Please post a picture when it is finished. I, and I'm sure everyone else, would love to see it.
10-07-2018, 03:58 PM
#9
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Outside St. Louis
Posts: 38,190
I don't worry about cutting on the straight grain. I cut all my strips Width Of Fabric (WOF). If you want to find the straight grain sewing quilt pieces together, just tug a bit, if it doesn't stretch at all it is on the grain. I try to sew all of pieces together on grain. My Daughter never does and I am not sure anyone can tell.
I star when quilt pieces were cut like yours. I was so grateful when I learned about rotary cutters. mats and rulers. I have made probably close to 400 quilts, comforters and biscuit quilts. I could not have done that many using the old way.
Welcome to this board, lots of knowledgeable people here.
I star when quilt pieces were cut like yours. I was so grateful when I learned about rotary cutters. mats and rulers. I have made probably close to 400 quilts, comforters and biscuit quilts. I could not have done that many using the old way.
Welcome to this board, lots of knowledgeable people here.
10-07-2018, 04:25 PM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,414
You are so right! Things have really changed since I learned to sew... in the '40s.. in the fourth grade. Not quilting. Just garment sewing. I am a self taught quilter so I didn't learn much. Back then, if I remember correctly, fabric was more on grain than now. Now, often I just tear the length or width of fabric to find the grain and even it to that grain line. Flannel must be washed before using because of the shrinkage and if it's off grain and won't tear easily, I just even it up the best I can and go on with life.
My quilts never went near a quilt show, but they are on hundreds of beds! I make 100s of charity baby quilts these days. I love to quilt and I love the little quilts, also. I hope they are used to pieces.
Enjoy!!
My quilts never went near a quilt show, but they are on hundreds of beds! I make 100s of charity baby quilts these days. I love to quilt and I love the little quilts, also. I hope they are used to pieces.
Enjoy!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
1
02-11-2011 08:01 PM
