Drunkard’s Path
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2025
Posts: 23
Hello Everyone!
I’m getting ready to start a new project using the Drunkard’s Path block. I just love this block! It’s one of the most versatile blocks that I’ve seen and I would love to master it. I typically stay away from circles and curves but have been slightly obsessed with this pattern for about a month now.
PLEASE help with any advice, tips, or information you can share. If you’ve used this pattern before and found something that worked well for you, please share.
This is where I’m at—
I have a template, material, and pattern
I’ve watched a couple of Pinterest tutorials and YouTube videos
I purchased the 1/4” seam guide to help steer the curved materials
I’m not a n expert but not a novice either. I’m just looking for any pointers or tips that have worked for you. All suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
I’m getting ready to start a new project using the Drunkard’s Path block. I just love this block! It’s one of the most versatile blocks that I’ve seen and I would love to master it. I typically stay away from circles and curves but have been slightly obsessed with this pattern for about a month now.
PLEASE help with any advice, tips, or information you can share. If you’ve used this pattern before and found something that worked well for you, please share.
This is where I’m at—
I have a template, material, and pattern
I’ve watched a couple of Pinterest tutorials and YouTube videos
I purchased the 1/4” seam guide to help steer the curved materials
I’m not a n expert but not a novice either. I’m just looking for any pointers or tips that have worked for you. All suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Peoria, IL -- Midwest Transplant
Posts: 7,259
I've done a couple projects. For me I pinch the middle of both pieces and put my first pin in there.
I found my end results came out flatter if my pinned piece had more of a curve in it. I think that's the best I can describe it -- if it was more 3D while sewing, it was more 2D when pressed.
I almost always press open -- this is one time when I most definitely do not!
I found my end results came out flatter if my pinned piece had more of a curve in it. I think that's the best I can describe it -- if it was more 3D while sewing, it was more 2D when pressed.
I almost always press open -- this is one time when I most definitely do not!
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,132
I also pinch the centers and start to sew in the center of the block. Then I flip and sew the other half. Make large and cut down. Recently I played with 3 inch drunkards path blocks by appliqueing a circle onto a square and cutting into 4s.
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 186
Though I’ve never done this particular block, here’s a little trick I learned in my garment sewing days:
Sew with the convex curve on the bottom, by the feed dogs, and the concave curve on top. Disable any even feed feature that your machine may have. Let the feed dogs do the work of gathering in that bottom layer.
Hold the two layers with you thumb down and fingers on top and apply an ever so slight tension.
Sew with the convex curve on the bottom, by the feed dogs, and the concave curve on top. Disable any even feed feature that your machine may have. Let the feed dogs do the work of gathering in that bottom layer.
Hold the two layers with you thumb down and fingers on top and apply an ever so slight tension.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2025
Posts: 23
Though I’ve never done this particular block, here’s a little trick I learned in my garment sewing days:
Sew with the convex curve on the bottom, by the feed dogs, and the concave curve on top. Disable any even feed feature that your machine may have. Let the feed dogs do the work of gathering in that bottom layer.
Hold the two layers with you thumb down and fingers on top and apply an ever so slight tension.
Sew with the convex curve on the bottom, by the feed dogs, and the concave curve on top. Disable any even feed feature that your machine may have. Let the feed dogs do the work of gathering in that bottom layer.
Hold the two layers with you thumb down and fingers on top and apply an ever so slight tension.
Great pointers! Thank you!
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2025
Posts: 23
Thanks so much! Would love to see a picture of the appliquéd circle.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2025
Posts: 23
I've done a couple projects. For me I pinch the middle of both pieces and put my first pin in there.
I found my end results came out flatter if my pinned piece had more of a curve in it. I think that's the best I can describe it -- if it was more 3D while sewing, it was more 2D when pressed.
I almost always press open -- this is one time when I most definitely do not!
I found my end results came out flatter if my pinned piece had more of a curve in it. I think that's the best I can describe it -- if it was more 3D while sewing, it was more 2D when pressed.
I almost always press open -- this is one time when I most definitely do not!
Thanks very much!
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 457
I second the suggestions above. I also find, the specialty foot I bought years ago for curved piecing most helpful. I bought one and it sat in the drawer forever! One day, we had a class at guild about Drunkard's path, and I struggled to get good piecing... I remembered the foot and it did work well once I read the instructions and got the hang of it.
Curve Master Foot (1/4"), Martelli
Curve Master Foot (1/4"), Martelli
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Posts: 943
I have made two quilts with a 7” DP block, and I have one with a 4” DP block ready to sew together (all the DP blocks are done). I also have done one with a modified 8” DP block called circle in a square.. The best hint I can give is to look at an old video by Ebony Love about Drunkard’s Path without pins. It really works, is faster, and it is quite accurate. If you don’t have a die cutter, just crease the center of each piece for matching. You sew with the big piece on the bottom and the small piece on top. It works, it really does! Note the bigger the diameter of the circular part the easier it is to sew. I would not recommend a 3 or 4” block as your first one!

