OrangeVelvet

Hi! Making a 66x53 quilt. Question I have is about the backing. Fabric is a flannel plaid and I can only piece it horizontally. Matching it is super hard! Am I crazy to do that? Should I wait for a wideback flannel instead to make life more easier? Also can I use reg. cotton for my binding since it's really cute and would match the quilt top well? Should I cut the backing and batting 4 inches larger than the top?
Sorry for all the questions. Just want this to be really nice for my daughter's birthday present
Thanks in advance for replying.

Iceblossom

Great questions, glad you found us here

I have spent time matching up backing fabric patterns. It is worth it if you like it and you have enough fabric! A lot of people don't care... but I am one who does. On the other hand, I'm not such a fan of flannel. I have pets and dust allergies and am all to aware of that especially on dark flannel...

I personally think regular woven fabric on the binding is fine. I've done donation quilts with flannel on the back, and a matching flannel binding against a regular fabric top. The flannel is thick and reacts a bit when used as binding. There are different grades of flannel, the lower cost flannels can be skimpier thread counts than the "quilting" level, I'd be concerned how well a low cost flannel will last at the corners -- but then again, I don't use flannel enough to know. Fortunately, other quilters here do use flannel enough.

You do have to watch the shrinkage warnings for flannel as well. Even if you didn't prewash the front fabric, you might want to consider washing and drying the back on high heat. You might be able to find a 2 yard x 60" wide flannel wide enough for your project, that makes it pretty close to your 53" measurement. But how are you going to put the quilt together? Machine quilt? Hand tie? Quilt by check (done by someone else) each quilter has requirements.

OrangeVelvet

I really would like to thank you for your input IceBlossom!! I, like you, want it to match up!! I've washed all the fabric so hopefully it won't shrink too. much! What I may do is try to match it up and see how it looks. If not exact, I may use the wideback coming thru the mail. Blessings to you and yours!

Gay

The only thing I can add, is it would be a good idea to have the backing larger. If the quilt is going on a longarm you need about 4 inches extra all around, and if using a domestic machine you would need some lee-way to pin or roll it up.

bearisgray

If you want to make life easier for yourself, get the wider backing.

I prefer to use the French fold type of binding. I also cut my bindings on the bias around 3 inches wide and they finish at approximately 1/2 inch wide. There are lots of videos available for it. I do a bit of a practice on a mini quilt sandwich to see if I like the effect and to get the settings right for this project. Also to practice on mitering the corners.

Search for: French fold binding for quilts

How much extra you will need for the backing depends on how it will be quilted. If I'm doing it on my machine, I can get by with about 1.5 inches around the edges.

Another thing you could do for the backing is to insert a contrasting strip for more width. I would suggest putting the strip towards one side so it looks intentionally off-centered, because it is difficult to line up a center strip so it is exactly centered on the top.

I trim my quilt sandwich before putting the binding on, and then I stay stitch the three layers together (about 1/8 inch from the edge) so I only need to worry about "one" layer when adding the binding.

Some people trim their quilts after they put the binding on.

I pin basted my quilts ad then did stitch in the ditch and straight line quilting with my Pfaff 1471 (1980s machine).

If you are having this sent out to be quilted by someone else, check with that person for his/her requirements for backing.
As far as I know, longarmers want the batting, top, and backing separate, because they load the pieces separately??

petthefabric

Welcome.
There's lots of techniques and opinion on acheiving "finished"
As to back. For years I loved using the leftovers from the front and creating an art statement for the back. Now, most quilts are busy activities, wide back is fine. Since commercial longarmer's want back wider than front, there's plenty of backing to make binding.
As my life changes, the purpose of quilting changes and my techniques change to match my purpose for quilting.

I've stopped listening to quilt police who require quilting to their standards. I set my own standards and try to ignore the "rules".

Snooze2978

I found if you press one seam over, then match the other piece of fabric to that seam using Elmer's Glue, press it once you have it as you want, then stitch it. It keeps the fabric from shifting on you as it does with straight pins.

OrangeVelvet

Wow....such fantastic pointers I can use to finish this quilt up!! I appreciate you all for taking your time to help me!!! Wish me luck. It'll be great !!

eparys

This is what I do as well (because it bothers me when the pattern does not match!!). I actually use Elmers School glue sticks (the purple ones) and you can get amazing results. I even use this method on long borders and occasionally on a "mis-cut" piece, I have attached a pic of a backing that I matched this way and I always have a hard time finding it

I use quilting cotton for all my bindings no matter what the body of the quilt is made with. .... You've got this!

bearisgray

Great matching! Would have had to look for a while to find it.