MeganMills

Hi Everyone - I know this must be on here but I can't find the thread. I've got a 1903 Singer 28 and I've got the clutch knob and washer off but cannot seem to loosen the handwheel so I can remove it from the shaft (I needed to get at the bolt on the machine body under it so I can get to the sliding block and replace the regulating thumbscrew for stitch length - have done that on the 1902 28 with no problem.) This machine doesn't have rust - it's got gunk, oily gunk and ancient-oil-turned-to-varnish gunk. Probably highly refined sperm whale oil at that it looks that old. Whole machine turns like a dream but can't stop needle when winding bobbin and can't get that thumbscrew replaced with the handwheel stuck.

I've cleaned and loosened all the gunk I can on the shaft/handwheel union and lubricated well. I've tried sewing machine oil, kerosene (paraffin) and Kroil. I've tried tipping her on her nose and tapping the handwheel both towards and away from the shaft with a block of wood, hoping nudge the Kroil into little crevices and start softening the gunk. Before I try heat do any of you have any other tips? How safe is it to put a wooden block under the needle bar and try rotating the handwheel forward in little rocking "taps" on the wood to get some resistance between the shaft and handwheel? I'm wondering if trying a little bit of shear force that way will start to soften the gunk/varnished 117-year old oil (possibly) that has effectively glued the handwheel to the shaft that she should freewheel on. Once she moves even a teensy bit I'll know I'm winning but right now she feels like that gunk is a weld!

What to do you think, is that a safe tactic or just "stoopider than stoopid"? (In the meantime she's enjoying a Kroil spa). Thanks heaps and heaps for any tips at all... Kind regards and keep safe, Megan

MeganMills

Well - what do you know? I told my hubby about my post on here so he just went ahead and tried it with our wooden chopping board (much braver and stronger than me)! And he's got the jolly thing off!. He slowly turned it forward with a bit of force, then back with a bit of force - and when he came forward again it moved a wee bit. So he just kept turning the handwheel forward as if slowly started to rotate on the shaft and as it got looser started it "winding it out" off the shaft as he went. Incredible! Very definitely not to be tried if you've got weak wrists and they sprain easily like me. If anyone tries this I recommend they get someone whose wrists and arm strength are of the husky, sturdy variety.

Anyway I thought I'd let you know just in case anyone else has this problem (surely they must have and will do) and wants to know about how we got it off. It did, of course, have a couple of hours of "drench it in penetrating oil" and give it some taps treatment first. Kind regards and keep safe... Megan (and my hubby Clark who, Yes, is my Superman!) :-D

Sewsation

Just like the pickle jar lid, you loosen it, and he gets it off without a hitch. I’m glad to hear it came off!

Where finesse is needed, I think it is helpful not to be operating at full strength. I am reminded of when I had sheep and watched my shearers. They had to be very strong to wrestle the sheep (200 to 350 pounds), but in perfect control so as not to slice off any appendages, theirs or the sheep’s.

leonf

Hooray. finesse is wonderful, as is strength.

Mollyzin

This is what finally worked for me when I was trying to remove the handwheel on my 1891 VS2. The ol' block under the needlebar trick!

leonf

Welome aboard Mollyzin

I have been known to resort to tapping a balance wheel with a rubber hammer and rotating it so I do it evenly after many attempts at oil and heat.