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Prissnboot 07-27-2012 07:21 PM

Alterations to Ken Lund quilting frame
 
7 Attachment(s)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!

nativetexan 07-27-2012 07:46 PM

well what a good idea. good for your Daddy. enjoy!!

quiltyfeelings 07-27-2012 08:24 PM

My Daddynis smart too! Love them!!

nygal 07-28-2012 02:03 AM

Thanks for the wonderful photos. That will help out for sure.

Emma S 07-28-2012 04:22 PM

Prissnboot thanks for taking the time to share the information. I have been eyeing this system since it first appeared on the Board. Now that you have modified your frame do you think it will do the job? I am really tempted but don't want to spend money on something that won't work for me. I think I would be able to make the modifications you described, any insight you could provide will be much appreciated.

nygal 07-30-2012 03:12 AM

Prissnboot was right!! I followed her suggestion but my husband put four coaster wheels on mine and I can do swirls and circles with ease!! Just be sure and put them far enough away from the edges so when they do swirl around that they don't bump the frame. I used it last night for about a half hour and I even embroidered my name "Celine"..which as a kid was so much fun writing in cursive!! It even looks great in quilting since it has lots of curves and swirls!

sew4nin 07-31-2012 07:27 PM

Do you have speed control on your machine? I have had the problem you described with the circles being square at the corners. I have had my set up for over 3 years. I have done lots of quilts and still have an issue with having control on smaller circles. This seems like it might solve my problem. Since the speed control relies on the direction of the wheels, my dh is working on a way around that.

Originally Posted by Prissnboot (Post 5399779)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!


nygal 08-20-2012 08:01 AM

How is everyone doing with their Ken Lund's frames? I did two practice quilts and by changing the wheels to the coaster ones that really did make a big difference. I'm still having a problem getting the right pressure/speed with my machine. When I get it just "right" the quilting is great but then I end up going faster or too slow and then my stitches are not as nice as they can be.

I am thinking of taking the frame off and using my new machine on its own for FMQ. I haven't tried that yet with this machine since I've only had it about a month. It has the hookup where I can use the knee pressure bar to stitch not the foot pedal. I want to see what that is like too. I can't do that with it on the quilt frame.

I just finished a big quilt and I am considering doing FMQ on it since it is too big for the quilt frame unless I have my dh buy me longer poles and then I could quilt it the frame. I just think I need to get more familar with my machine first!!

ailene 01-31-2013 08:15 PM

This is so interesting. I am going to order one from him. He emailed me and said he would get it ready. Thanks for the suggestions about the wheels. I will do mine that way off the start. This is an answer to my prayers about trying to quilt larger quilts. I have been doing them by hand or wrestling the sewing machine and personally I hate the quilting part, but love, love, love, designing and making the tops! LOL Now to get my sewing machine I use in the shop. It is broken and not sewing right. I have had to rely on my Kenmore, old faithful I call it, I have had for probably 20 or so years now. Wouldn't take anything for it but need the drop feed in the brother embroidery machine I own for quilting. Oh, well. Maybe next month I will bite the bullet [again] and try to find a heavy duty straight stitch for this set up.

craftiladi 02-27-2013 03:13 PM


Originally Posted by Prissnboot (Post 5399779)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!

Oh huge thank-you for posting this-I am saving it as I am seriously considering do this if I should purchase Ken's frame.

grammy17 07-28-2014 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by Prissnboot (Post 5399779)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!

HOw about a picture of what you have quilted using this frame.

lowrainehope 07-29-2014 08:06 AM

I saw this post last year when I first purchased Ken's setup but it was too free for me at the time so I went back to his original idea. I contacted the person who posted it and she had sold the frame and apparently got little time spent on it. So I let that idea go. I will make adjustment to the bottom frame and see if I can get it to work better. thanks

lowrainehope 07-29-2014 08:17 AM

I am replying to this post because all of the comments seem to be following the 2012 post. Maybe some of those original folks would comment on how theirs are doing now. I really appreciate all the help with my situation, it's nice to be able to reach out to others and find answers to our problems. Thanks again, will let everyone know how this turns out.

ny2ks 08-31-2014 12:14 PM


Originally Posted by lowrainehope (Post 6822591)
I am replying to this post because all of the comments seem to be following the 2012 post. Maybe some of those original folks would comment on how theirs are doing now. I really appreciate all the help with my situation, it's nice to be able to reach out to others and find answers to our problems. Thanks again, will let everyone know how this turns out.

Keep us updated, I would love to hear what you decide. I too purchased a Lund frame a few months ago and made the alterations the original poster detailed and added handles and a speed control. I unexpectedly became ill and ended up being hospitalized before I could test out the set-up... and then school started back up. I am putting my leader cloths on today and hope to give it a whirl tomorrow.

ploverwi2 11-18-2014 06:00 PM

You make me count my blessings
 

Originally Posted by nygal (Post 5454114)
How is everyone doing with their Ken Lund's frames? I did two practice quilts and by changing the wheels to the coaster ones that really did make a big difference. I'm still having a problem getting the right pressure/speed with my machine. When I get it just "right" the quilting is great but then I end up going faster or too slow and then my stitches are not as nice as they can be.

I am thinking of taking the frame off and using my new machine on its own for FMQ. I haven't tried that yet with this machine since I've only had it about a month. It has the hookup where I can use the knee pressure bar to stitch not the foot pedal. I want to see what that is like too. I can't do that with it on the quilt frame.

I just finished a big quilt and I am considering doing FMQ on it since it is too big for the quilt frame unless I have my dh buy me longer poles and then I could quilt it the frame. I just think I need to get more familar with my machine first!!

I own a Janome MC6600 machine. It does have the speed control, but it also has a stop and start button, and that is nice, because there is not a foot pedal in the way. Also it has the thread cutter. I tried all different setting with the speed control and finally have it where I can just hit the start button, and off I go. However, I also need the casters, because at times I make a square corner. The frame is surely worth the money. I was sent one that was covered in splinters and had cracked wood. There was nothing sanded at all. It was awful. I wrote Ken, and he discounted the price. I sent lots of pictures with the damage.

LindaJ 03-27-2017 04:32 AM

Hubby and I did this yesterday and think 4 casters will work for me. My machine is heavy and when I put it

on the top (with 3 casters) it wants to fall over. Thanks for helpful idea.

QuiltnNan 03-27-2017 04:59 AM

thanks for taking the time to show us your changes.

flaca 01-27-2018 06:31 AM

I too have bought Ken lunds frame. My problem is the the bottom carriage wheels don't run straight on the track. any suggestions on how I can fix this. I haven't even got to load my 1st quilt on it.

Penelope H 04-04-2018 08:54 AM

Has anyone used Ken Lund Artisan Quilting Frame? The machine is stationary and the frame moves?

AlabamaNaNa 06-28-2018 05:46 PM

can you post pictures of your handle and speed control alterations. I am trying to figure out how you did this. Thanks

DevoDove 11-04-2020 07:27 PM

Questions re the Lund frame
 

Originally Posted by Prissnboot (Post 5399779)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!

Couple of questions. 1) How does the top carriage stay on the bottom when you move forward and back, and 2) How does the sewing machine stay on the carriage?

kimmcamp 01-23-2023 03:15 PM

Lund quilt frame (Dad's upgrade)
 

Originally Posted by Prissnboot (Post 5399779)
Hi. I purchased one of Ken Lund's quilt frames and had difficulty using it. I like doing loopy quilting designs, flowers, feathers, that kind of stuff, and I had a hard time using his design for this. It was just too stiff, it didn't want to turn. When I tried making a circle, it came out more like a square with rounded corners.

So I told my very talented and creative father about it, and we came up with the idea of mounting caster rollers instead.

The alterations were made to the top part of the trolley, the part that your sewing machine sits on. As it was originally designed, the bottom part of the trolley runs east/west along the frame, and the top part moves north/south on top of the other trolley. It's the north/south portion that was altered from the original design.

I've posted photos below, I hope between my description and the photos that this makes sense.

We removed the wheels from the top trolley, and replaced them with three caster rollers which rotate 360 degrees. The ball portion of the roller is a little bit bigger than a golf ball, but not quite as big as a baseball, and they are mounted on the underside of the trolley. We then had to put two guides along the side of the trolley to keep it from rolling off of the bottom trolley. The guides measure about 4" x 1.5" x almost 1" thick. Scrap lumber would work great for this purpose if you have any hanging around. Also, make sure to mount these guides about 1/4" above the bottom of the trolley so they don't scrape the bottom of it while it is in motion.

Another suggestion for this frame is to fill the conduit rods with expandable foam to make them more sturdy. I've used the frame with 5' rods and they work fine without this, but the 10' lengths tend to bend. Home Depot sells a product called Great Stuff. It's in a can with a guide, works like a spray can. I haven't used it yet, so I don't know how much it will take to fill all 4 rods at a 10' length, but if you do this, please share with us how it turns out. My Daddy said it would work, so I'm guessing it should! LOL.

Oh, one other thing - be sure to check the placement of the two rear casters before screwing them down - make sure the balls have clearance when rotating - be sure they swing clear from the little guides as they rotate.

See the photos below. I've included a photo with a measuring tape so you can gauge the placement. I've used this and it works like a champ!

Happy quilting to all, and to all a good night!


Awesome job, and I had been looking at my casters in my save 'rolling things drawer' this morning and wondering about using them. Why did he choose to use 3 instead of 4? This is totally something I can make myself.
Kimm

rjwilder 01-24-2023 04:19 AM

I've never seen one of these frames, they look kind of bulky and heavy. Do they work well?

Rick1 12-26-2023 11:36 AM

Alterations
 
Another possibility might be to mount the machine on a separate board on top of the Lund carriage on a lazy Susan bearing under the center of gravity, towards the motor end of the machine, so it would rotate freely but not go back and forth trying to pull the casters into alignment. A little more complicated but fewer parts that might be rubbing or binding. I think I might extend the handle some to give a little more turning beverage.


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