Cleaning the inside of a Singer 66 Red Eye (decals turning silver)
11-04-2019, 11:10 AM
#1
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Cleaning the inside of a Singer 66 Red Eye (decals turning silver)
What do you use to clean out the insides of a gunky vintage red-eye singer sewing machine? i wanted to use brake cleaner as I have used this to clean the treadle cast iron. I have read that it might mess up the machine. Does anybody know anything about this? I refurbish sewing machines but its been years and I never had one this bad. I've already cleaned out the dust. it moves fine but I am going to sell it and need it looking nice. I also have a question on what to do when the decals are turning silver 
I bought this machine and didnt look it over before buying it. There are peices missing and broken. Its ok tho because i have a ton of extras around here. Thank you! I am new here! 
I bought this machine and didnt look it over before buying it. There are peices missing and broken. Its ok tho because i have a ton of extras around here. Thank you! I am new here!
11-06-2019, 04:59 AM
#3
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Location: Wisconsin
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Some will do a kerosene soak, if the head is really bad. All electrical components would need to be removed. I am not sure you'd want kerosene in the bobbin race wick, however. I have carefully used rubbing alcohol on the parts underneath, either on a qtip or on a cotton yarn wrapped once around the rods and pulled back and forth. Rubbing alcohol is not safe on the topside painted surface.
As to the silvered decals, the protective top coat is compromised and the decals cannot be restored. Red-eyes were made in great number, would it be a better parts machine than sale potential?
Or you could strip it all, repaint, apply new decals and clear coat. I found a set of pretty waterslide decals, that would work well on a head. I do have a Red-eye candidate.
As to the silvered decals, the protective top coat is compromised and the decals cannot be restored. Red-eyes were made in great number, would it be a better parts machine than sale potential?
Or you could strip it all, repaint, apply new decals and clear coat. I found a set of pretty waterslide decals, that would work well on a head. I do have a Red-eye candidate.
11-06-2019, 06:31 AM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,122
Silvered decals are often the result of someone using a wet rag to clean a machine. Once the older protective coat is worn, even a tiny amount of water will damage the decals. Once damaged, the decals can't be repaired.
11-06-2019, 09:14 AM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Silvered decals only happen when the top layer of shellac wears down, the damage is caused just as much by mechanial friction as any chemical reaction. As you know alcohol containing products are by far the worst on shellac, a slightly damp cloth doesn't do much damage if it doesn't leave any dampness behind. When we clean vintage machine I guess we start with the gentlest of cleaners, then amp it up as needed to get old grime and dirt off the surface.
Silvered decals are very delicate, the only thing I know that helps is to clean very gently with cotton swabs around them, then apply a layer of shellac to protect what ever is left. The old Singers don't have prefectly applied and polished shellac (compared to guitar and violin finishes), but it's done well, nice and shiny. My point is really to gently apply shellac with next to no rubbing until a protecive coating is formed.
With the inside of the machine, I have had just as good results with spray can oils as anything else. It is a bit more expensive, but works. They easily seep out and end up just any where, they probably will affect exposed decals. Shellac in good condition usually stands up to them. Repeated action will dissolve the worst of grime, but I don't know how much time and energy you are willing to put into a machine you plan to sell. Brake cleaners generally contain more hazardous ingredents than they basic WD40 or CRC 5-56, and they dry up much quicker than spray can oils. An effective and economic solvent is white spirit applied strategically with a dropper to internal areas, it is a bit stinky but works on old oily grime.
Silvered decals are very delicate, the only thing I know that helps is to clean very gently with cotton swabs around them, then apply a layer of shellac to protect what ever is left. The old Singers don't have prefectly applied and polished shellac (compared to guitar and violin finishes), but it's done well, nice and shiny. My point is really to gently apply shellac with next to no rubbing until a protecive coating is formed.
With the inside of the machine, I have had just as good results with spray can oils as anything else. It is a bit more expensive, but works. They easily seep out and end up just any where, they probably will affect exposed decals. Shellac in good condition usually stands up to them. Repeated action will dissolve the worst of grime, but I don't know how much time and energy you are willing to put into a machine you plan to sell. Brake cleaners generally contain more hazardous ingredents than they basic WD40 or CRC 5-56, and they dry up much quicker than spray can oils. An effective and economic solvent is white spirit applied strategically with a dropper to internal areas, it is a bit stinky but works on old oily grime.
Last edited by Mickey2; 11-06-2019 at 09:21 AM.
11-07-2019, 06:11 AM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,821
This is just another way to use the alcohol. I cut strips of old tee shirts and dip them in either denatured alcohol (hardware store) or 90% alcohol from Walmart. You can just wrap the strip, dipped in alcohol, around areas to be cleaned and pull it back and forth. Be careful and don't get it on the paint. Kerosene will work well, too, but it's slower and doesn't hurt the paint. I buy unscented lamp oil from Walmart. It doesn't say Kerosene, but it is.
bk
bk
11-09-2019, 02:20 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 19
Hi WIChix...yes There is another machine I am working on a 319k and its soaking right now in evaporust because the whole right side of it was full of rust. I bought it with the natural walnut cabinet and seat for just $10. I am planning on doing all of what you just said by stripping it, repainting it and applying the decals once I buy them...of course the clear coat. But this redeye I am keeping it the way it is because I honestly want to sell it. I bought a gorgeous one from 1907 and It came from Germany ( the manual is in German btw ) all time favorite machine..and doesn't need much maintenance. This Red Eye that I want to sell I just wanted to know what to do for a fast cleaning lol. There probably isn't one...I just saw all of these msgs btw. Like I said im horrible with these boards..first one ive ever been a member of. Thank you all for replying. 
11-09-2019, 02:22 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Originally Posted by Macybaby
Silvered decals are often the result of someone using a wet rag to clean a machine. Once the older protective coat is worn, even a tiny amount of water will damage the decals. Once damaged, the decals can't be repaired.
11-09-2019, 02:26 PM
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 19
Originally Posted by Mickey2
Silvered decals only happen when the top layer of shellac wears down, the damage is caused just as much by mechanial friction as any chemical reaction. As you know alcohol containing products are by far the worst on shellac, a slightly damp cloth doesn't do much damage if it doesn't leave any dampness behind. When we clean vintage machine I guess we start with the gentlest of cleaners, then amp it up as needed to get old grime and dirt off the surface.
Silvered decals are very delicate, the only thing I know that helps is to clean very gently with cotton swabs around them, then apply a layer of shellac to protect what ever is left. The old Singers don't have prefectly applied and polished shellac (compared to guitar and violin finishes), but it's done well, nice and shiny. My point is really to gently apply shellac with next to no rubbing until a protecive coating is formed.
With the inside of the machine, I have had just as good results with spray can oils as anything else. It is a bit more expensive, but works. They easily seep out and end up just any where, they probably will affect exposed decals. Shellac in good condition usually stands up to them. Repeated action will dissolve the worst of grime, but I don't know how much time and energy you are willing to put into a machine you plan to sell. Brake cleaners generally contain more hazardous ingredents than they basic WD40 or CRC 5-56, and they dry up much quicker than spray can oils. An effective and economic solvent is white spirit applied strategically with a dropper to internal areas, it is a bit stinky but works on old oily grime.
Silvered decals are very delicate, the only thing I know that helps is to clean very gently with cotton swabs around them, then apply a layer of shellac to protect what ever is left. The old Singers don't have prefectly applied and polished shellac (compared to guitar and violin finishes), but it's done well, nice and shiny. My point is really to gently apply shellac with next to no rubbing until a protecive coating is formed.
With the inside of the machine, I have had just as good results with spray can oils as anything else. It is a bit more expensive, but works. They easily seep out and end up just any where, they probably will affect exposed decals. Shellac in good condition usually stands up to them. Repeated action will dissolve the worst of grime, but I don't know how much time and energy you are willing to put into a machine you plan to sell. Brake cleaners generally contain more hazardous ingredents than they basic WD40 or CRC 5-56, and they dry up much quicker than spray can oils. An effective and economic solvent is white spirit applied strategically with a dropper to internal areas, it is a bit stinky but works on old oily grime.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 11-09-2019 at 03:19 PM. Reason: shouting/all caps
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