DonnaMiller

Puckering is usually too much tension (upper). I had that issue with my Janome Horizon and found it to be the needle. I changed the needle, and the pucker was gone. Of course, in the meanwhile, I adjusted everything else. Loosening the upper tension seemed to help. It works now.

J Miller

Been my experience that puckering can be caused by too much top or bottom tension, as well as the wrong needle.

Joe

steihy

Good thing you asked, Sewnoma, I was pondering this question last night when nothing I could do to tension seemed to help. This is another of the major parameters in mechanical sewing that hasn't changed in like a 150 years. All machines have pressure regulation, all manuals state it as a an important feature that has to be right - then you're on your own. Nothing about which problems are caused by to much or to little, on how to figure out where to start, not even how to zero out and start over. The "clockwise is more, counterclockwise is less" is almost insulting.
I got this beautiful old high arm treadle that I cleaned and massaged into action, but couldn't figure out why the pressure rod adjustment screw wouldn't thaw like the rest - it looked clean. Turned out it was bottomed out so tight I just thought it was stuck. The ca. 1890 user manual I found online says the same about pressure as they said in The 1950's and probably to this day - "get it right or else". Didn't do 125 years worth of previous owners much good.

Mechanical machines, no matter how good, cannot sense what is happening, only respond to user antics. Does anyone know how high end computerized machines are set up? Do they have sensors on feed and actual stitch length and quality? Do they have automatic pressure regulation?

It's ok if you want to be anonymous about knowing anything about electronic machines🤐
Stein

steihy

Forgot to answer Sewnomas question: Yes, I marked both upper thread- and pressure foot tension rods on that treadle. Not for a sweet spot, just to see how much to turn and maybe find my way back to where I started.
Stein

Dottie Bug

steihy ,yes, on my Husqvarna designer -1 1998 it has the adjustment in the computer you put in what you are sewing ,like cotton or light weight fabric it adjust s its self. DottieBug

ArchaicArcane

Assuming thread tension is right - a presser foot way too loose can cause uneven stitches and even loops despite proper tension. Too tight and it will most often pucker - it really does a number on knits if it's too tight too!

miriam

Some OSMG told me for practice try adjusting pressure with a piece of typing paper - no needle of course... Put the paper under the foot, try to pull the paper out forward/toward you. If the paper tears there is too much pressure. If too much, loosen the pressure until the paper pulls out. Then tighten it a bit. There is a sweet spot. Then check it with fabric. I usually adjust the pressure until it just holds the fabric. Not too tight not too loose. You don't want to be able to pull out fabric but you don't want it too tight either.

I'm thinking they put a silk setting on the drop feed dog knob or buttons so you aren't supposed to have to adjust the pressure for light weight fabric.

ArchaicArcane

This is about what I learned too but it seems to be opposite of the page Janey posted unless I'm reading it wrong. I use just enough pressure to hold the fabric and move it along - which seems to be what you're describing, Miriam - like thread tension - thicker threads need less tension dial turns to get the same tension as a thinner thread. The page seems to say the thicker the fabric, the heavier your pressure will be.

Cari-in-Oly

"The page seems to say the thicker the fabric, the heavier your pressure will be."

This is the same instruction that's in very vintage machine manual I've ever seen. It seems counter-intuitive to me. I've never really tested it out though I don't remember if I goofed with the presser foot pressure on the things I sewed with my moms machine that I really shouldn't have when I was a teenager.

Cari

ThayerRags

For the past few years, I’ve been trying to come up with a “pain meter” to set household sewing machine presser foot pressure, by setting the presser foot down on my index finger to assess the pressure. So far, if it doesn’t hurt too danged much, I figure that I’m in the ballpark. If it hurts like the dickens, and continues to hurt after I finally get my finger out from under the danged thing, the pressure is too strong. If I can lift my finger while it’s under the presser foot, it doesn’t have enough pressure on it. If I can tap my finger while it’s under the foot, the spring is broken or missing. I use a light pressure on my machines that I mend jeans or sew embroidered patches onto garments so that I can easily over-ride the feed to place my needle where I want it. I use a heavier pressure on other types of sewing. [Caution: This method doesn’t work well with industrial machines, especially walking-foot machines, unless you want to get into the various degrees of blood-letting.]

Not very scientific, I know, but out here in rural farm country, we tend to try to figure out measurements without using too much high technology. For instance, two of the local law enforcement agencies in the area use the “finger method” to determine where a shoulder patch needs to be sewn onto a uniform. One uses three fingers width down from the seam, and the other uses two fingers. Now......the question remains.....fat fingers or skinny fingers? I’m not kidding. That’s the “official” measurement that I have to go by.

CD in Oklahoma