Domestic Rotary 153

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Old 08-08-2017, 09:55 AM
  #11  
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I've found them hard to remove on occasion. The one on my 401 had been melted onto the wheel. On that one, I had to scrape it off with a dental pick. I got the last little bits off with some solvent, but I can't remember which one. If worst comes to worst, cut it in two with an exacto knife. You shouldn't have any trouble getting it off then.

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Old 08-08-2017, 10:36 AM
  #12  
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Have you checked for full movement on the mechanism that moves the bobbin winder assembly? I've had a few melted ones, too.
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:14 AM
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I will double check tomorrow to see if the tire can be moved any closer to the wheel. However, if I have to remove the tire, is there some other piece that I have to take off first for the tire to slide off?
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:34 AM
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Not that I know of. I think mine just slid off and this pic doesn't show any problems . ( not my pic) https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...=13&ajaxhist=0
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Old 08-09-2017, 04:03 PM
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The new light-bulb and the friction tire arrived today and both fit and work fine. I polished the chrome and oiled everything. The only things left to do are to refill the grease caps, replace the bobbin tire (it is hard as a rock and cracked), and wax the cabbinet. Here is an album of beauty pics:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...Xl3OXY4cHkzdGs

P.S. - Does anyone know what the handwriting on the back of the instruction booklet is referring to?
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Old 08-09-2017, 05:42 PM
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Edit: If the link above does not work, try here
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:16 PM
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A further observation on the condition of this machine: Originally it was caked with dust and dirt. I cleaned the entire surface of the machine using cotton rags and a toothbrush dipped in warm water, mixed with a few drops of dish soap and baking soda. I was able to remove all of the dirt, but I think the raw paint on the machine is exposed. On the sides of the arm, and especially on the bed, my white rags began to stain with light brown after the dirt dissipated. Is there anything I can use to seal the paint? It seemed to stabilize after the water evaporated, so I may be worrying over nothing.
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:22 AM
  #18  
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The back of the manual is referring to the knee control. Some obsessive person wrote down the part # and the physical size. Wow.
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:26 AM
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The back of the manual is referring to the knee control. Some obsessive person wrote down the part # and the physical size plus more. Wow.

You did a great job of cleaning. Chrome is sparkling. Light brown on the cloth could be from tobacco use. If the metal is still covered ( and it looks to be the case) it should stay for another 50 years.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:24 AM
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The crinkle finish is rather tough, and should handle soap, water and a soft cloth. I don't know about baking soda, since it's an abrasive, be it a mild on. Clean and in good condition the crinkle finish has shine to it. As leonf mentions, it could be more dirt. I have seen one or two cases were a surface or paint originally hard and shiny has been exposed to some type of oil or grime that over time made it soft and a bit gummy. It's not common with sewing machines I've seen, but I have come across it once or twice.

Your machine looks like a gem and in very nice codition. You can wring up one of those velvety microfiber cloths and choose a spot and clean with swirly movments; if the brown stops rubbing off I'm guessing it's stubborn dirt, but it has to be done carefully and in a not so visible spot. Hard to tell from the pictures. A clear glase or sealant type car polish with out the white gritty polish ingredient will protect and shine up a worn finish, and the finish dries to a very hard film too. The basic resin polish can be hard to polish up and out of all the crinkles, the sealant type works well though.

Last edited by Mickey2; 08-10-2017 at 11:29 AM.
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