Help please!
01-03-2021, 06:16 PM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,248
Yes, the serial number is the one under the motor. I couldn't quite see the first couple of digits, but it looks like there is one or two digits before what looks to be __X79836. The model would be the numbers before the "X." They are very similar based on my 41 & 43 machines. You didn't say whether you got a manual and attachments with your machine. If you need a manual, there are ones that should work at https://www.singer.com/support if you put wrotary in the box next to "View Manuals." That should bring you to page https://www.singer.com/search/support?title=wrotary I would suggest downloading both of them. One is for the electric and the other is for a treadle. The treadle one has a little clearer pictures for the threading which would be the same.
These types of machines generally have a flat spot on the pulley which makes sewing quite noisy. It is suggested to put something between the machine and the motor to keep the pulley off the hand wheel while not in use. I'm not sure if there are replacement ones available now or not. Someone chose to use a rubber plug to create one at https://sewwhatman.wordpress.com/201...-drive-wheels/
Here are some other threads about machines near the same. I think one of them, unfortunately, is missing Macybaby's photos. Perhaps they may have some helpful information in them. The first one John did and it has been a while since I have re-read it. The others, I just skimmed through.
White Rotary 41 - Several Interesting Differences
"electric" White Rotary no. 43-18476
White Rotary 43 - Project of the Day
Domestic Rotary 153
Also, since some are older, they may have some broken/bad links.
Something that I was reminded of is that these machines only need oiling with sewing machine oil - No grease. Probably, needs a lot of oil to get the old gunk out and new in.
A reminder about these machines is that if turning the hand wheel (like when oiling) that the hand wheel rotates goes in a clockwise direction when you are looking at it from that end.
I don't think you really have to take the machine out of the cabinet, but it might be easier to hit all the spots. If it will rotate the hand wheel a full revolution and the needle moves, then I think if you have a Zoom Spout oiler, you should be able to get to all the spots that need oiling.
Thank you for the pictures. You can make them larger
.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
These types of machines generally have a flat spot on the pulley which makes sewing quite noisy. It is suggested to put something between the machine and the motor to keep the pulley off the hand wheel while not in use. I'm not sure if there are replacement ones available now or not. Someone chose to use a rubber plug to create one at https://sewwhatman.wordpress.com/201...-drive-wheels/
Here are some other threads about machines near the same. I think one of them, unfortunately, is missing Macybaby's photos. Perhaps they may have some helpful information in them. The first one John did and it has been a while since I have re-read it. The others, I just skimmed through.
White Rotary 41 - Several Interesting Differences
"electric" White Rotary no. 43-18476
White Rotary 43 - Project of the Day
Domestic Rotary 153
Also, since some are older, they may have some broken/bad links.
Something that I was reminded of is that these machines only need oiling with sewing machine oil - No grease. Probably, needs a lot of oil to get the old gunk out and new in.
A reminder about these machines is that if turning the hand wheel (like when oiling) that the hand wheel rotates goes in a clockwise direction when you are looking at it from that end.
I don't think you really have to take the machine out of the cabinet, but it might be easier to hit all the spots. If it will rotate the hand wheel a full revolution and the needle moves, then I think if you have a Zoom Spout oiler, you should be able to get to all the spots that need oiling.
Thank you for the pictures. You can make them larger
.Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
01-04-2021, 07:43 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Waterford Michigan
Posts: 7,241
Wow! There is so much to learn right off the top and to do upholstery as your first project. There are a number of 'pros' here when it comes to older machines. First of all I would get the pedal for your machine. You can order one from several places on the internet. It is a good sign that the light comes one but without the pedal there is no way to start the movement of the machine. Also I would order a manual for t his make of machine. It sounds like it has been sitting a long time. and could use a good cleaning and the manual will tell you how to clean and oil your machine. I would not jump right into your seat covers just yet. familiarize yourself with the machine by sewing various large scraps of fabric or by making a simple pattern first. Just to become familiar with how your machine works. Any time someone puts their mind to a task and puts their whole self into it the task can usually be achieved. I would also check with auto shops on possible patterns for coverings for seats. Classic car dealers may also be a help in finding patterns for seat covers. Best of Luck.
01-09-2021, 10:21 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 34
Here are some thoughts from a some-time sewing teacher, whose mom was a sewing teacher before going back to school. Despite trying on me starting at age 6, and being in her sewing classes in junior high, she didn't manage to teach me anything (my classmates still rave 50 years later about learning from her!) The two daughters who became sewing fanatics didn't get into it until our 30s.
Starting with what you want to make is a great way to learn (rather than the classic approach of 'learning to sew via a series of less-simple projects). It can be much more motivating. Remember that people learn differently and if one explanation fir anything doesn't make sense, go find another in books or on the internet.
Machine tips: Once it's working reasonably well, remember that almost all bobbin messes (also known as nesting, when things stop because of a lot of bobbin thread looping up) happen because the bobbin is in the case wrong. Bobbin thread can unwind clockwise (q) or counter clockwise (p), depending on the machine; if you put the bobbin in the case upside down it will go the wrong way.
The other contributing factor to lots of problems: not using a fresh needle. Some advise changing needles at the start of each project. I change at lease every time I put in a full bobbin (you've stopped anyway, and maybe unthreaded the needle to wind a bobbin --good idea to wind a couple of them when you're doing it). Needles are different sizes, too; larger for thick fabrics, smaller for thin. Ball end for knits. You can use the threader in sewing kits if your machine doesn't have one.
Needles are the cheapest way to good sewing; others that make an enormous difference are light bulbs and irons. Put the brightest light bulb you can in the overhead lights; compact fluorescents have made it possible to put a much, much brighter bulb into fixtures with incandescent limits. A really bright one (maybe for photography) can cost a few bucks more than normal ones; you'd be surprised how many folks with multi-thousand dollar machines can't bring themselves to spend ten bucks for a light bulb.
Irons: same with irons. You can't spend too much attention to pressing, and if your iron is more than a couple of years old you will be stunned what $20 or $25 can get, iron-wise. Put it as close to the machine as possible, every step away is a seam that may go unpressed.
Presser feet: will save you more time and effort than you can imagine. It's almost always worth a couple of minutes to change to a specialized foot (but not rare or expensive), like the ones for narrow hemming, gathering and binding, no matter how small it looks like the job. Also, many sewers are suddenly addicted when they operate a ruffler attachment for the first time.
Two mistakes in a row concerning the same/similar things are probably related. Ie, if the first is wrong it makes the second wrong too. Two blips (needle unthreading, stabbing yourself, many others) in a row means you need to take a break, have some tea and aim your eyes somewhere else. I had a friend in college, probably the best sewer I have ever met even then, who was making 12 gold lame jump suits for a dance class. She discovered late at night she'd attached legs to necks, and somehow put three arms on one. Relatively recently I serged myself to the machine! (I was wearing a shirt the same color and very similar fabric to whatever I was trying to finish at three a.m ) The lesson: you'll make mistakes and they're a lot easier to fix the next day.
Starting with what you want to make is a great way to learn (rather than the classic approach of 'learning to sew via a series of less-simple projects). It can be much more motivating. Remember that people learn differently and if one explanation fir anything doesn't make sense, go find another in books or on the internet.
Machine tips: Once it's working reasonably well, remember that almost all bobbin messes (also known as nesting, when things stop because of a lot of bobbin thread looping up) happen because the bobbin is in the case wrong. Bobbin thread can unwind clockwise (q) or counter clockwise (p), depending on the machine; if you put the bobbin in the case upside down it will go the wrong way.
The other contributing factor to lots of problems: not using a fresh needle. Some advise changing needles at the start of each project. I change at lease every time I put in a full bobbin (you've stopped anyway, and maybe unthreaded the needle to wind a bobbin --good idea to wind a couple of them when you're doing it). Needles are different sizes, too; larger for thick fabrics, smaller for thin. Ball end for knits. You can use the threader in sewing kits if your machine doesn't have one.
Needles are the cheapest way to good sewing; others that make an enormous difference are light bulbs and irons. Put the brightest light bulb you can in the overhead lights; compact fluorescents have made it possible to put a much, much brighter bulb into fixtures with incandescent limits. A really bright one (maybe for photography) can cost a few bucks more than normal ones; you'd be surprised how many folks with multi-thousand dollar machines can't bring themselves to spend ten bucks for a light bulb.
Irons: same with irons. You can't spend too much attention to pressing, and if your iron is more than a couple of years old you will be stunned what $20 or $25 can get, iron-wise. Put it as close to the machine as possible, every step away is a seam that may go unpressed.
Presser feet: will save you more time and effort than you can imagine. It's almost always worth a couple of minutes to change to a specialized foot (but not rare or expensive), like the ones for narrow hemming, gathering and binding, no matter how small it looks like the job. Also, many sewers are suddenly addicted when they operate a ruffler attachment for the first time.
Two mistakes in a row concerning the same/similar things are probably related. Ie, if the first is wrong it makes the second wrong too. Two blips (needle unthreading, stabbing yourself, many others) in a row means you need to take a break, have some tea and aim your eyes somewhere else. I had a friend in college, probably the best sewer I have ever met even then, who was making 12 gold lame jump suits for a dance class. She discovered late at night she'd attached legs to necks, and somehow put three arms on one. Relatively recently I serged myself to the machine! (I was wearing a shirt the same color and very similar fabric to whatever I was trying to finish at three a.m ) The lesson: you'll make mistakes and they're a lot easier to fix the next day.
