alaska_guy

I just purchased a pfaff 360 machine to go through heavier material like nylon/poly/light canvas materials. The wife currently has a fancy Viking/Husq machine but its plastic and I did not want to tax that machine with heavier garment materials.

The machine seems like it will be a great workhorse but I have a few basic questions...

This machines top stitch is GREAT, the bottom side of the stitch with the machine going forward looks good, however when I go backwards it looks a little sloppy. IE: not exactly a straight stitch on the bottom, its offset a little. We have played with tension and it's cranked all the way up to 10. We played with the settings and 10 seems the best.

Could the cause be her needle size or thread type? She is using upholstery thread and what looks to be a 16 gauge needle. We were using a 14 guage needle with the blue color indicating its for heavier fabrics on her viking. Her viking sews better stiches, but it doesn't like to handle the material, where the Pfaff eats it like butter.

Also, is there a way to reduce the gas pedal so the machine doesn't sew like a jet? I was thinking of placing a block under the pedal so she can only press down so far. It seems the machine only has slow or full bore. We also have to help it through the fabric by hand when pushing the pedal as to not make the machine go full bore. I imagine this is due to a learning curve with the gas pedal as she currently has a computer setting of speeds on her viking.

She was in tears last night because the machines stitches were not good and she kept fighting with the foot pedal. We checked the tension, made sure the bobbin was in correct in the bobbin holder, etc etc. We have the original manuals and checked 5 times.

This machine is strictly for straight stitching thicker materials like outdoor fabric for patio furniture. She is looking for a good way to make the machine sew at a consistent rate and the only thing I could think of was put a block of wood under the gas pedal so it only goes down so far, that way she could always put the pedal to the floor and not worry about it

Thanks in advance!

Mickey2

Viking / Husqvarna machines are usually manage well with most jobs, but I think the 360 and some related models was equipped with stronger than average motor. The old Husquvarnas too, like 19 and 21E. I would suggest keep on cleaning and oiling the machine the next two weeks, daily and persistantly, and to do a bit oftest sewing. It will make a big difference once the dried up oil dissolves and gets flushed out. The 360 and related models are prone to holding on to sticky dried up oil, and the solution can be either very diliget oiling routine or disassembling parts for a major clean up. A thorough cleaning with improve everything from noise, adjustments, settings, general running of the machine to stitch quality, etc...

All lids and plates needs to come off, the top lifted up, clean out all dust and fluff, detect all oil points and tend to them peristantly the next week or two.

How high does the numbers go on the tension dial? Usually it's set to some kind of inbetween setting for sew-all weight thread; which means if your dial goes from 1 to 10 it should generally have a balanced stitch around 5. A lot of tension dials is numbered from 0 to 9, but it varies.

As you mention it's important to match thread and needle size; for heavier fabrics and top stitch thread I usually go for Schmetz 19. It's the largest I can find in 705 type needle and a large needle can be an advantage for heavier fabrics. (There is a brand that carries size 20 and 22, if your 360 can take it, a lot of new machines max out at 18). It's the larger eye you need for top stitch thread. It will affect tension and stitch quality. The factory probably has a suggested needle size for your uphosterly thread, for brands like Gütermann you can look it up on their site.

You might have to adjust the bobbin tension when using top stitch thread and extra strenght thread, ideally it should be set to a certain tension. There are tension gauges and specs for this if needed, but you can manage with out. I'm sure your machine should have perfect stitching, and it's all about getting tension right and matching thread and needle size. I have had similar issues with reverse stitching, but except for a couple of cases (fine jersey knit with stretch) I have been able to sort it out.

Cari-in-Oly

I'm not familiar with Pfaffs, but some of the symptoms you're describing are indicative of a dirty/worn/out of adjustment controller and/or the motor needs serviced.

Cari

quiltedsunshine

It's the thread. Just use a 100% polyester Guterman or Omni quilting thread from Superior Threads, and it will make a huge difference. It really is strong enough.

alaska_guy

Thanks for the replys! It seemed it was the way I was threading to the tensioner, there are 2 small discs and the thread needed to go between those two. I had the thread inside closer to the machine itself. After threading it properly and adjusting the tension to about 4.5 the machine sews like a dream!! The needle center and right position work just fine, but the left position doesn't work. The lever moves, but the needle doesn't. I am going to bring it to a dealer, they quoted me $85 to clean and service the machine.

Mickey2

Nice to hear it's working out. I'm sure you will get along with the machine. The controller should have gradual speed. There's a condenser in there you might as well take out, at least if it's not already taken out or replaced by a new one. They are old now and tend to act up 50 years after the machine was new (...full speed all the time, machine running on its' own, blowing fuses,...). The controller is usually fine when it's removed. There's usually an adjustment screw in these old controllers too. I'm sure the service guys are all onto it :- )

alaska_guy

Thanks again. So, just when I thought I had it licked... Apparently my machine must be missing a piece because the tension doesn't stay put. I found a youtube video that shows a clicking noise to keep the tension spring in place. Mine does not make that clicking noise and I can not find the area to pull the thread in order to make it "click".

I used to be a mechanic and now work on computers so I can figure things out. I need help with the tensioner lock "part name" or whatever you call the item so I could replace/add it myself if possible.

3:18 seconds on the video. It looks like there is a machine part that is supposed to cover the tension discs and always keep the tension spring set by "clicking" in place. I don't see that on my machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP_Mw2KlD9s&t=229s

On another note, I was at the thrift store yesterday and found a gem! Well what I think is a gem. $49.99 for this singer 403 with table, all original manuals, cams, a dozen feet and other odds and ends. This thing sews like a dream and looks like it was better maintained. Shows VERY little wear on the machine itself. I tried the cams out and all seem to work and it sews beautifully. It doesn't go through the plastic backed material very well compared to the pfaff, but I imagine that's due to its .75 amp motor vs the 1.5amp pfaff motor.





On this listing you can clearly see the hook/lock that is used to keep the tension in place. This is for a 332/230 model. Maybe the one in the video is different? I don't see anything about clicking anything into place in my manual, but my singer manual doesn't say anything about it either, and it DOES have that piece.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfaff-332-23...3D311904219752

Mickey2

You might have to take the tension assebly appart then. I could not find a manual showing how to line up the parts correctly for the 360 so I you have to be careful; take pictures of it along the way and make sure they go back together in correct order and in the right way. Tensioners all work in much the same way but they are not exactly the same either. You might even find Pfaff model 360 or close models with a slighly different top tension mechanisms. The tension spring you mention could be slighly off it's mark or it can be broken. It's a standard replacment part, but needs to be the right one for your machine model. It's well withing a DIY repair even if your first tensioner can be a bit cumbersome.

The Singer 400 series is quite sought after and regarded. They very often need a good cleaning and oiling to get their needle punch power back and much the same treatment as suggested for your Pfaff 360; detect all oil points, give it many repeated oil applications, turn knobs and levers, poke the swing arm action manually with your finger tip, run the machine in between, every day for the next week or two (seriously). I know the advice sounds basic but I mean it seriously, the persistant and repeated turns of cleaning and oiling will sort out most problems by far. It's a bargain price for a 403. Congratulations :- )

OurWorkbench

I would tend to agree with Cari about the foot controller/motor needing attention and Mickey2 about the upper tension needing to be taken apart, cleaned and adjusted. I've seen a few that were put together incorrectly when received so even taking pictures might not help.

While I have a few Pfaffs, I don't have any of this family of Pfaffs (260, 262, 360 and 362). A few links that might help - there is a lot of good info and some links to manuals on a couple
http://tinymicros.com/wiki/Pfaff_262_Sewing_Machine
http://www.victoriansweatshop.com/po...ff-362-8441781
http://www.victoriansweatshop.com/po...ith-my-8125238

Most bobbin cases are adjusted for normal sewing thread. I was under the impression that the upper and bobbin thread should be the same. I have seen it recommended that an extra bobbin case be purchased so that you can leave one for normal sewing and have another bobbin case so that you can 'tinker' with the tension for various threads.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.