Applying decals to my newly painted FW - body shop doesn't want to clear over them?
 

I've had a featherweight in pieces for close to 2 years. This past December (for my birthday), DH took the paintables to the body shop at the dealership where he works to have it painted and the decals put on. Today, I got her back - sans decals. They said they don't like putting waterslide decals on then clearing over top because the decals can cause the clear to uh... OK, I can't remember exactly what DH said but it sounded like bunk. The end result being that they had to redo everything when it fails. OK, so how are all the places everywhere else doing it?

Back in the day, I painted half a sport bike with a HVLP spray gun and a craptastic air compressor that burped paint in bubbles when it kicked in or out :D, so in theory I can do the decals and another few coats of clear but it won't look like the body shop's work - at least not without a lot of sanding to level orange peel! So, do I put the decals on and plead with them to do it anyway or is there an easy way now that it's got base/clear automotive paint on it to protect the decals? The body shop says if I put the decals on while it's still a little wet, they'll "never come off". I don't think it was clear to them that I intend to use the machine.

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When DH came into the studio with the box, I think I'd given up hope waiting for the wee one. We kept getting told "tomorrow" or "Monday" so many times that I didn't even think the box was my FW. I thought someone sent us something. Her paint color is "Deep Impact Blue" found on some of the newer Ford cars.

It's beautiful! I hope you get your decal issue lined out for this gorgeous little sweetie.

I've been waiting to see her! OK first off I have to say the color is hawt! :D

Next off,, What? I wouldn't want to mess with the decals before the paint is cured..and then at that point once the decals have dried I do not understand why there would be a problem. Try asking someone that does these with the decals and see if they have had problems with the clear. Enough machines are bring re-painted so I can't understand what the deal could be.

Several years ago I repainted a Singer 99. I created my own water-slide decals and put them on, clear-coating over them when dry. The clear coat did not bubble or mess up. It looks fine.
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I like the cross stitch border on the pink one!

I'm not sure what the issue is either. I have heard of waterslide decals cracking under the clearcoat. Maybe that's the issue? I would just put the decals on and clear coat over them. Just make sure whatever clear coat you use is compatible with the paint. Shellac is compatible with most finishes but check to be sure.
Great Color! It's going to look great when you're done.
Rodney

LOL! Thanks Christy :) You guys are seeing it within hours of me seeing it for the first time. I was a little unfair to her taking a photo of her in the box with all of her dust all over her. Tomorrow DH and I will get her out and cleaned off and decide on the decal situation and rectify the photo situation at the same time. I had too much stuff all over my bench last night and a machine to service today and didn't want her getting oily/dinged/dropped/etc.

I guess the clear coat stays little "soft" for a couple of weeks, that's why you're supposed to be gentle with automotive paint for a few weeks after a repair. The idea with the decals is that they will "sink into" the clear a little which would be fine if she was going to sit on a shelf but I bought her with the express purpose of repainting her and using her. I thought it was a good show of what I could do as a repair person. Complete tear down for paint AND she sews. That's the goal anyway. There was a little miscommunication between what I wanted and what was done but I should be able to remedy it - they didn't mask the orifices so she's blue inside and out. That may tighten up some tolerances too much, so I may be becoming friends with some emery cloth and such.

I'm going to email Glenn Williams - he sold me the decals, and possibly talk to the body guy who did the "heavy damage repair" on our truck and see if he'll spray the clear.

That's really neat looking! How was the paint and clear done? Was it a spray gun or a can?

Hmm,.. the cracking seems an interesting situation. I wonder if that's too little moisture when applying or too little dry time? Keep in mind, I'm getting the information second hand but it sounded like the whole clear coat would be ruined and need to be redone. I could see that with shellac - application of a water laden product and all but the new clears are.....oh. I think the new automotive clears are water-based to some degree. I have a vague memory of the old versions being banned and the new one are more environmentally safe but less resilient and water based to some degree.

Sounds like a vote for doing it myself. ;) In fairness, I think I cringe when I think of someone untrained using a HVLP spray gun on one of these machines but I think the CBR turned out well. (before the last of the decals - I did the front fender, the lower cowl - the black part and the front cowl - where the headlights are.) That's after weeks of body work thanks to someone throwing it down the road before we got it. I wanted a project...

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I LOVE that color, if I were going to get a FW painted that's probably just about the color I'd go for. My Hyundai is "Marathon Blue" which is a very similar color to the Ford blue and I LOVE that color so much! It makes me happy just to look at it.

I can't wait to see her when she's all "dressed" again! Please do post pictures, so I can live vicariously! LOL

I've had decals crack under the clear coat, I've had them get bubbles and I've had them pull up from the surface all after spraying the clear coat. I'm sure they just don't want to take any responsibility for a poor outcome.