Best way to touch up japanning?
3 Attachment(s)
Hi all
I was enjoying reading the step by step on how to revive and restore the shellac on older machines and unfortunately when I tried to reply my computer froze up and I couldn't find it again... :( But my specific question is: What do you do when your finish looks like this? [ATTACH=CONFIG]416158[/ATTACH]I'm hoping you can see the section where there's a reddish reflection, because I presume that this is the only remaining section of shellac, which I know I can restore... but I'm unsure what to do about the pitting in the japanning where the metal is visible. How is it best to fill these in? Here are a couple more pics. I think the machine is in great condition for an 1896 gal :D so I'd love to preserve her beauty and make the bed a smoother surface to sew on. Thanks! Amelia [ATTACH=CONFIG]416165[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]416166[/ATTACH] |
I've never touched up an old machine, although I have a couple that need it.
Read this by our own Skipper: { http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...s-t186522.html } If that doesn't answer your questions PM him and he'll help. Joe |
I don't think I'm much help this morning. I'm not totally comprehending what I'm reading. Sigh .............
The only machine I've touched up the edges on was a 15 clone and I used Testers model paint. Didn't turn out too bad, but it's not perfect. Contact Glenn ( Skip ) and he'll tell you how to do that. Joe |
Fru -
There are three levels of options as far as I know. 1. Original process - Linseed Oil and asphaltum mixed as a "paint" and then baked on. 2. Close to original - Shellac and black powdered pigment mixed as paint (baked or not) 3. well, it's Black - any good quality lacquer paint |
Steve...
I never knew that. WOW! I'm going to try it. Do you know where you can be asphaltum? |
Thanks everyone. I think it's the depth of the pitting that has me stumped as I don't know how I would go about 'filling' them with the paint. Maybe just lots of layers over a couple of weeks or something. Or maybe the shellac will even out the surface once I've blacked them in again.
Thanks for the link on restoring the shellac - that's the one I had been reading when I got kicked off and couldn't find it again! |
paint does "build up" eventually. If you go that route, just make sure you don't rush it, and many thin coats are better than one or two thick coats, for oh so many reasons.
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After going thru hell and back with shellac...enamel everything but the kitchen sink, I came upon wipe on Poly. Folks..dont holler..it works great. You get a nice smooth finish. Who knew? Fw looking better. Pics soon.
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I would add that I have learned to use Duplicolor DE1635. It is a ceramic paint that is thick like Japanning. It flows like Japanning. I have used it to paint an area after a break repair and it blends right in. I have also sprayed it into a cup and then painted with a touch-up brush
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Originally Posted by psdumas
(Post 7945765)
After going thru hell and back with shellac...enamel everything but the kitchen sink, I came upon wipe on Poly. Folks..dont holler..it works great. You get a nice smooth finish. Who knew? Fw looking better. Pics soon.
Cari |
Originally Posted by SteveH
(Post 7945833)
I would add that I have learned to use Duplicolor DE1635. It is a ceramic paint that is thick like Japanning. It flows like Japanning. I have used it to paint an area after a break repair and it blends right in. I have also sprayed it into a cup and then painted with a touch-up brush
bkay |
nope......
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Thanks Steve... glad to know you like the duplicolor. I have a machine I bought because it was a cosmetic wreck... so experimenting and knowing what works helps a lot! I just used the GM Lamp Black touch up paint, and it's not bad at all. An acceptable match.
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Cari, I wouldn't of done it either--unless I tried it on an experimental machine. :-) Works quite well. Breaking the rules isn't so bad sometimes for me. 5% of the time it works! :eek:
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Shellac wasn't working for me as per Skipper's tutorial. But, I like putting on the clear coat with a rag with my wipe on Poly. I know-- not the "go to" finish, but works quite nicely for me. The french polish method works with different things.And if the clear coat is not super thick, you can get quite a nice, smooth finish. Maybe back in the day shellac was composed differently-- it's biological flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol--But, I was just getting a cloudy surface. So.. I experimented. Glad I did. I learned a lot. Pat
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That's why I like a wipe on top coat. Thinner.. dries slower so you can move it around, and makes a nice smooth surface. I'm a dedicated "wiper" now! ;) Pat
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