Quiltingboard Forums

Quiltingboard Forums (https://www.quiltingboard.com/)
-   For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/)
-   -   Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/cleaning-repairing-shellac-clear-coat-vintage-sewing-machine-heads-t193635.html)

ceblakeney 06-23-2019 05:49 PM

I discovered PB Blaster on this thread and it is now a permanent part of the VSM restoration effort at my house. There are so many resources out there, there is no excuse to let these classic machines go to the dump. :o

CorryH 07-05-2019 06:24 AM

1 Attachment(s)
So I found this in my shed yesterday! Surprise lol. Cabinet is pretty much toast but this little cutey runs, needs a belt and a serious spa day but can I fix this shellac? [ATTACH=CONFIG]614542[/ATTACH]

juliasb 07-05-2019 07:39 AM

This has gone into my book marks to be recalled at a moments notice. I don't have that many older machine any more but have restored all but the last one I picked up. It is in fair condition but this will be a great help in getting to 100%. Thank you for a great learning tool.

juliasb 07-05-2019 08:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I just finished my sample block. It still needs a bit of squaring up but IMHO looks ok. I decided not to put a circle center on the ones I am making so they will not be confused with ones that were made by an unknown artist.

ttatummm 03-26-2020 02:35 PM

A Small Clarification
 
I have a machine that I want to French polish. I've read this thread and the other thread started by Glenn on this subject several times, but there is one thing I'm not sure about. Should I let the machine sit for a day or so between each application of shellac?

I picked up a Singer 66 in bad shape to practice on. Glad I did, because I missed the fact the denatured alcohol/boiled linseed oil part of the procedure was to prep the surface rather than to remove the shellac and I took off more of the shellac than I probably should have in my trial run. No matter this is just practice, I proceeded to apply shellac as indicated by Glen and it looked pretty good, not perfect but the marks left by the cloth were very slight and only noticeable when checking it at odd angles. But the marks got worse with additional coats. Not sure if this was because I should have given it more time to dry or if it was because I used more BLO with the later coats. You see I also missed that you need less BLO with each coat.

Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated,

Tammy

Tiffiny 04-26-2020 09:38 AM

Help with the finding the aniline dye?
 

Originally Posted by Glenn (Post 5339167)
aniline dye stain alcohol soluble that is mixed with shellac to a paint consistency. You can purchase the alcohol soluble stain in Ebony or Negro depending on the company. Any wood workers cat will have it. I buy mine at Lee Valley or Woodworkers supply.

Help! I'm really struggling to find this. All Lee Valley seems to have is water soluble aniline dye. I can only guess that is not the same but would it work?

Glenn 04-26-2020 12:27 PM

I got mine at Lee Valley and surprised they don't have it. You can try other wood workers catalog. No water soluble will not work.

themadpatter 04-26-2020 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by Tiffiny (Post 8380878)
Help! I'm really struggling to find this. All Lee Valley seems to have is water soluble aniline dye. I can only guess that is not the same but would it work?

Tiffiny- I did a quick google search and there are a lot of other places they are available, including Amazon!

https://tinyurl.com/alcohol-dyes

Patti

OurWorkbench 04-26-2020 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by themadpatter (Post 8380922)
Tiffiny- I did a quick google search and there are a lot of other places they are available, including Amazon!...

Actually the Amazon link gives a "Not Found" page, however, I think this page will - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=aniline+d...lcohol+soluble

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

Tiffiny 04-26-2020 01:11 PM


Originally Posted by themadpatter (Post 8380922)
Tiffiny- I did a quick google search and there are a lot of other places they are available, including Amazon!

https://tinyurl.com/alcohol-dyes

Patti

Thank you but trust me, I've been Google searching extremely hard already. All of the links that come up for Amazon are broken and/or the product isn't actually available when you click on them. The only link I've been able to actually follow to a product is the woodworker.com and they are out of stock with a broken "notify me" button for when it is back in stock.

Tiffiny 04-26-2020 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by OurWorkbench (Post 8380935)

Actually the Amazon link gives a "Not Found" page, however, I think this page will - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=aniline+d...lcohol+soluble

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)

I'm only seeing water soluble black or alcohol soluble any other colour but black. Not sure if I'm missing something? Ultimately though even if I am, I'm in Canada and they won't ship it to me right now because of the pandemic *sigh*

jmerk 06-04-2020 05:35 AM

What a difference between start and finish! Beautiful job! I've been reading all I can before I try and restore a machine and some say to absolutely use no water...but you do successfully. Is it a matter of preference? Experience?

Glenn 06-04-2020 02:59 PM

It is a matter of experience as you said. I use only water and dish soap by making a stiff foam and wipe down the machine to remove dust and dust on the surface. Not enough water to hurt the decal but you can stay away from them if you are unsure. Then proceed with the tut. This system really works if you take your time.
Glenn

liking quilting 08-08-2020 02:59 AM

Just had to give a big thank you to Glenn and Miriam for all the patience they have shown in sharing these techniques with us! Never thought I would go down this road, but I saw Chaly's restoration on another site and was over the moon with her result. Have been reading and rereading these posts to glean as much info as I can get into my brain! Did one machine on my deck last month when the weather was perfect. Still in the final curing phase in the house now. Did a lot more clear coat than linseed oil proportions, but it worked out pretty well. My husband was impressed! Thank you again for sharing your expertise with the rest of us!

Lizz1 08-20-2020 09:24 PM

Hi Glenn, newbie here and thanks very much for the instructions. I'm very keen to try this for my old singer handcrank that i've inherited, have cleaned it thoroughly with smo to the best that i can. I'm of course, terrified to ruin the machine, so forgive me asking silly questions. first, use denatured alchol and linseed (as per your earlier instructions above) and WORK ALL OVER THE MACHINE in circular motions, is that right? How many times and how long? is this process also known as french polishing? I tried to do research on youtube and there was no mention of linseed oil? I just want to be sure that i fully understand the whole process before embarking on it. Thanks very very much for your advice.

Glenn 08-21-2020 06:08 AM

Yes you are right. Linseed oil and denatured alcohol and applied as directed will smooth out the finish and remove the brown color of aged shellac. Stay away from the decals for the alcohol will silver them. It will take several times to make a smooth surface and then to same using shellac and linseed oil as directed will build up the finish. This is called French polishing. I recommend you practice on an old machine first to get the hang of this. Go slow but have fun.

Lizz1 08-23-2020 01:22 AM

Thanks very much Glenn. Great advice, I'm on the prowl for a cheap machine to test the french polishing before touching my grand dame. Problem is that here in Australia, even a totally rusted piece of junk without the machinery has a min asking price from $50 upwards,Plus, I need to get all my stuffs ready just in case we go into lockdown again (which is looking very likely)
Cheers

Lizz1 09-06-2020 05:08 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Hi Glenn, Following from my response, I got my hands on an old machine to try the french polishing. it is in a really sad state. Parts of the shellac surface is peeling (see image)and showing the cast iron body. Would french polishing 'cover' over these patches? BTW, do you have any idea what machine this is, the treadle has the word VALLEY and there is a very faint residual print of 'THE VALLEY R G' on the body which is where the chipped japaning is. There is a serial number K1833482 under the base. Thanks much

Glenn 09-06-2020 06:12 AM

Yes lots of french polishing would even out the chips but will take time. I don't know what the machine is but it looks like and UK Jones. Not sure..

Lizz1 10-01-2020 08:27 PM

Gday Glenn
So, I've finally managed to line all my ducks in a row (read...manage to get everything I need for this french polishing adventure:))
It's really hard to get the Zinsser shellac so finally, after numerous trips to hardware stores where it is only available in spray can, have opted to mix my own with shellac flakes As per your first post, to ask all the questions before starting. So please forgive my newbie ignorant questions. BTW, I saw the same machine on sale on Facebook and its a Vesta "Valley" Thanks
1. Do i need to wipe away the sewing machine oil first before i start french polishing? I don't have naptha, but using JELL (Aussie equiv of Swarfega, can't get Goop or Gojo) Should I use that to wipe away all traces of SMO first>
2. Is the linseed oil a must? Or can i use SMO in its place?
3. I watched Youtube videos to get a better idea of how to do and they always make a "rubbing pad" with tshirt. Do you recommend that?
4. Also on Youtube, they replenish by opening up the pad to add shellac and alcohol...your thoughts please?
5. How many layers do you recommend?

Apologies for all the questions, but really want to understand the whole process in my head before i dive in.
Grateful thanks for your time and advice.
Cheers

Glenn 10-02-2020 06:15 AM

Just wipe down the machine with a rag. The sewing machine oil does not have to be removed. Linseed oil is better than sewing machine oil. I use several layers for the pad but i just dip my rag in the shellac with a drop of linseed oil on top. I have been known to cover my finger with a couple of layers of rag(t-shirt) and dip into the shellac and oil. You can do as yutube said, what ever is comfortable for you to polish.
Glenn

Lizz1 10-03-2020 04:22 AM

Hi Glenn thanks very much for your advice. I'll have a go and post if the finished results are decent ☺️

sarahkhan 02-02-2021 10:45 PM

Sewing mashine?
 
i want sewing machine but i don't know which is the best please guide me

esther.makes 05-29-2021 02:28 PM

Hello, I'm a VSM newbie here! I have a few questions before embarking on my first sewing machine refinishing. Pictures in a link below. Appreciate any comments/feedback/help you're willing to offer. Thanks, everyone!

I recently acquired a Singer 66 in a treadle cabinet, and hope to restore and sew with it. I'm so glad I stumbled upon Glenn's posts about how to clean and refinish the sewing machine head because I accidentally took some gold off the decals and have been freaking out ever since. Here are some pictures of my new baby:
https://www.quiltingboard.com/member...bums20452.html (Hope the link works, haven't figured out how to upload photos in a post yet...)

I've read and re-read the posts to make sure I've got all the details. I'm collecting supplies right now, and will practice in an inconspicuous part of the machine before doing the whole thing. I have a few more questions, hope they're not too silly to ask.

1. There are a few chips along the edge of the bed that I hope to touch up. Do you think it would be odd to just touch it up with some black paint (the anilene dye alcohol-soluable powder mixture)? Or should I consider filling in the bumpy edge with an auto body filler putty, then paint and finish?

2. Will the step to wipe over the decals with alcohol + linseed oil remove the gold in the decals as it seems alcohol tends to remove the gold layer? Is there an alternative way to wipe over it prior to sealing with shellac?

3. The decals are in relatively good condition, but I would like to touch up the portions where it turned silver due to my mistake. I saw Testor's gold paint pen being recommended. After some googling, I have found one that is enamel-based, and was wondering if it's okay to have enamel being sandwiched between the japanning and shellac layers?

redbugsullivan 05-29-2021 07:24 PM

You ask excellent, educated questions! Yes, be careful with anything that may touch decals. I have found high end nail polish enamel to be an acceptable paint chip fill and color match. Be sure to just fill the loss and let dry. Several layers may be needed.

OurWorkbench 05-30-2021 06:03 AM

I used some Testor's model paint to fill in a scratch and some chips for my sister's machine. Another recommendation is Dupli-Color DE1635 Semi-Gloss. It can be sprayed into the lid or plastic cup and applied with a brush.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:02 PM.



SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.