Miriam,

Depends on the model. Quite a bit of Badged Davis' out there for the later VF's while the early ones are unique.

A helping hand would be tremendous especially if basic woodworking tools are lacking.

Jon

Oh - that cabinet is neat! The machine may not be mounted simply because they took it out to make moving the cabinet easier. I remove all machines before moving cabinets. Won't take the chance of the machine busting the cabinet, even in short vehicle moves. All it takes is one bump in the road you hit harder than you expected.

Does your Davis VF take the shorter needles? Those that do usually have a scale etch of the needle right on the front slide. If it does, than it's the later model and will fit most other Davis cabinets.

I've got two early Davis machines that have different bases, and they are both very unique, I've got three later Davis machine, NVF, Vibrating shuttle and Rotary, so three very different machines, but they all have the same foot print (and all take the Boye 15 needles).

You folks are already teaching me a great deal! Love that cabinet and wonder if it was ever a treadle. Here's why I ask.
Checked out that White set of treadle irons that I mentioned earlier. It was also a gift of sorts (Centralia freecycle) from an enabling friend. It's a Frankentreadle! Right side iron is a White, who knows that the left side is nor the pedal. There are no identifying marks and zero holes for mounting any cross brace. The distance between irons is 18 1/2" so I can't even adapt the top to the Singer irons without removing drawers.

It is essential to have the base solid. So frustrated. I think I'll have to back up and re-think. There's no needle printed on the front slide plate. It's serial # is 766486.

I know it was purchased new as a treadle because it was from the Kansas City Sewing Machine Co.. They routinely "updated" treadle heads to make them appear new when the motor was mounted. That means they slathered the poor thing with brown crinkle paint, which is flaking off in small chunks. I rebuilt the motor to use as an electric. It's mounted and ready. I just love to treadle when quilting because of the complete control.

That $60 machine is looking better and better. Perhaps could retro fit treadle components inside. Thoughts?

I've got a couple of treadle cabinets in poor shape, though they are not Davis, the guts might work.

SN# 766486 is a VF2 which dates from 1899-1900. I didn't even notice the guts of the parlor cabinet was missing so I'd personally pass.

Jon

I think my woodworking skills are about to be used. Nothing like need to make creative juices flow! Checking out the bottom of this machine, it is clear the shelf idea will not work. This is a VF2 and the shuttle movement pivot prevents any other support system than resting on the edges.

1. Plywood piece the correct size to fit irons (20 1/2" apart from center of screw holes)
2. Reverse engineer where the treadlewheel's inside and outside rims align to wood (treadle belt path) and mark
3. Flip board over (front to back)
4. Transfer bed opening dimension to the left of the belt markings (perhaps make width 3/8" narrower to have head sit on top of table with notches in back where pin supports stick out)
5. Dry fit head, using spools as supports, to confirm alignment and adjust as needed
6. Cut hole (smaller is better than bigger)
7. Fine tune opening with head and belt
8. Clean up edges with router
9. Install and sew!

What have I forgotten?

Or, I could just do what Capt. Dick and Cindy Peters did. Treadleon is one amazing place. Spent about two hours checking out the universal and multi-use treadle board tops. Now to get measuring, early in the morning, because the shop faces the summer sun all afternoon.

I did what I could and wound up giving up. Measured small, good. Cut too thick a chunk of plywood, requiring support in places I hadn't thought of before. Too many challenges for the benefit. The problem leaves me reverting back to putting dreams of this treadle aside. Thank you to everyone for your support.

One success! The pot metal the hinge pins were set into were garbage. Holding the pins in my hand, looking longingly at the holes for the hinge pins and wishing... Finally, my DH had a grand suggestion. Fencing staples! They hold the pivot pins securely and the head can swing up and back correctly. I did predrill for one side, the other was the hole left by the screws. I will post pics if wanted.

Annette,

Wish I could give you some woodworking tips but perhaps this link might help if your up to another attempt down the road:

https://sites.google.com/site/oldiro...adapter-plates

I think the hinge pins would add a degree of difficulty that is not essential. If I was in your boat I'd make a quick and easy 3/4" top, perhaps reinforced in spots with 1x while searching for a proper Davis cabinet depending on how well you like the machine.

Jon

The hinge pins were needed in the base that holds the machine for storage. I rebuilt the flat bottom and one end, decorated the sides to hide imperfections, and the holes for the pins stared at me. Now, the machine's secure in its box.

Thank you for the terrific source! I think I'll be using thick plastic too, simply because I have extra from a project.