Foot control question?
 

Is it possible to replace an older/vintage foot control with the newer electronic units. If it's possible, is it just a matter of rewiring the new controller or is it more involved. Electronics is not my best subject:).
Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,
Soman2
The other Rodney
Ponchatoula,La

T. O. Rodney,

>Is it possible to replace an older/vintage foot control with the newer electronic units.
Yes

>is it just a matter of rewiring the new controller
Yes

> or is it more involved.
Nope, just need to make the mechanical connection

> Electronics is not my best subject:).
Mine either, but replacing a foot controller isn't a case of electronics, just basic electrical wiring.

The electronic controllers are generally two wire units just like the older resistance types. Some have screw connections, some you have to splice the controller's short pieces of wire into the end of the controller cord. Either way it's really very easy.

Joe

Thanks Joe,
I was not sure if the machine needed some sort of compatible electronic gizmo to make it work properly.

Rodney

Rodney,

Is this the one that has a toggle switch controller ... nothing, then wide open throttle?

If so the controller is the problem. It might need cleaning, might need adjusting, and if it's full of tiny little carbon disks it might need to have some replaced. If a controller with the carbon disks is dropped they can break. That will mess up the conductivity.

You can also get modern resistance controllers too. Generally they are less expensive than the electronic ones.

Joe

I've got new electronic (solid state) foot controllers (and new cord sets) for all of my working mechanical machines. The youngest of which is 39 years old (Kenmore 148.13110). New controller works beautifully on my otherwise original Featherweight, and the cord set that it came with wasn't original anyway. I just ordered another one for my 603 and 600E.

I just can't get the feel of button controllers, and the electronic pedals are only a little more expensive than the resistance ones when buying new. I get mine from Sew-Classic.

Aerin, does the 600 work?

Cari

Haven't plugged it in yet. It doesn't want to move by hand very well, so I'm going to give it a good cleaning before I try the motor. So, on the list. Above the frozen 201, but below holiday gifts that I really need to get started on. As one does around this time of year.

The electronic ones work fine. They have one benefit in that they do not get warm like the resistance ones do. The thing I dislike about them is that everyone I've seen is made from CHEEP plastic. No weight, or substance.

I've got several machines with OEM electronic controllers and one cord set I wired up with a unit from Sew-Classic.
I've had no trouble with any of them.



Joe

They may feel cheap but sometimes that's an illusion. With electronics there's a lot less weight than with resistance coils and ceramics. I guess in 20 years or so we'll know for sure how they really are.
I think it was Electrolux vacuums, the early canister ones, that had a lead weight in them so they would feel heavier so people would think they were of better quality. That was the sole purpose of the weight. People thought they were too light to be any good when they were first introduced.
Rodney

Rodney,

What you say is true I guess. But I dislike plastic so no matter what others might say to me, plastic = junk. Also there are times where you do need the weight and the stability it gives you.
Those are my opinions and I've been around long enough to watch the change from real quality to the pseudo quality we are forced to endure now.

Joe

Right there with you Joe! My daughters refer to me as "allergic to plastic"... they think it is funny to hand me things that look metal and are actually plastic... hilarious... hehe

The plastic electronic replacement controllers are pretty flimsy feeling. But for $20, I don't expect very much. They work for me, and that is what I care about.

A new replacement foot control for my friend's mother's Bernina 1000 (mid 1990's) runs between $90 and $200. A replacement for my mom's Pfaff 1222se starts at $90, used. Scary. I treat that foot control and cord set with great respect.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]498798[/ATTACH]

This is what you're dealing with. I think this is the same pedal Jenny has on her site, but hers might be black.

The only real complaints I have with the pedal are:

1. The push on connectors are pretty flimsy and don't have any shielding. That makes me nervous becuase they could shift as I put things back together and touch.

2. The pedal is very light, as Joe mentions. The reason I don't like this is it travels. A lot.

It may also not have come with the cord uh... Thing. The one that takes up the gap where the cord enters the box. I say maynot, because this pedal has had at least 3 different cords in it, so it's possible I lost it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]498800[/ATTACH]

I've done one myself, early on for my Kenmore. I couldn't get the cord safety thingy to clamp on and get it the hole for it. So, electrical tape. Now I just order the cord set and controller and pay the extra $3. But I am lazy. Very very lazy. I've been happy with the controller. Beats the heck out of the weird Elna air pouf control that the school machines had in 1990. Not made for that kind of abuse.

The twist nut splices are easy, and the plug to the control board is secure. Better looking than my car stereo self-install!


[ATTACH=CONFIG]498804[/ATTACH]

Glad to know I'm not the only one who's had trouble with that strain relief. I couldn't get it on either.
I used a thin rubber grommet instead.
Cari

Installed new foot pedal
 

Joe,

I just changed out the OEM controller for the plastic electronic one on my 328K and the machine runs fine. Must be something with those carbon wafers. Is there a source for replacement disc to rebuild the oem units? Thanks.

T O Rodney

I think when you have a cord with that rectangular bit on it, and the u shaped piece, it's great. None of the cords I order come with them, so I do the same, a rubber grommet (you can see it in the second photo). I'd prefer better strain relief, but those squeeze things that some of them come with? Ugh. They're always a smidge too big and a bear to get in.

T O Rodney,
I don't know of any retail source for the carbon disks. I got some from ArchaicArcane, and some from dead controllers. I never throw controllers away. Those little disks come in handy when you need to refurb one.

Strain Reliefs:
Those are a pain. I have found that once you get the wire situated where it needs to be and the relief on the wire you need to compress it with a pair of pliers till it's fully compressed, then push it into the hole. I have never been able to get one in the hole without squeezing it with all my might. But once in, they are solid.

Joe

I bet that's my problem. All my might is likely more than a little less than yours, hence they're always a little too big for me.

Thanks for this article and pictures. I just ordered new wiring, controller and foot pedal. This will be a great help to my husband when he goes to wire it all up.

I keep a cord set (power cord, cord block and foot controller), set up to test motors and lights I've rewired. I also use it to run machines I've just gotten that have a bad cord set. The controller is one of the electronic ones from Sew-Classic. It works great, has been dropped, knocked around and used quite a bit. No problems with it at all.

I still wish it was made from a heavier material though. I've been tempted to screw a piece of plywood to the bottom of it and add some rubber feet, so it would have some weight and resistance to sliding.

Joe

Joe, I add velcro to the bottom and stick it to a board if I can't corral it with a box or something. My Pfaff pedal and my serger pedal both travel too because they're too light so I'm just resigned to a little dancing when I sew...