Well there could be a tolerance that is slightly off somewhere but I sure wouldn't be checking that until it was oiled and turned for a while longer - it could take 6 months for the oil to penetrate or it could be you missed a vital spot. The worst of it is when you have a machine like that it is very hard to tell exactly where it is stuck. I assume you are knowledgeable about mechanical things so you would know that little drop of gummy dried oil isn't in a place you can see. It is hidden between a couple moving parts. Any place friction can happen is where you aim your drops of oil.

Who'd ha' thunk -- not what I thought was wrong.
 

Looks like John was right about it being on the bottom. I still don't understand why the heat on the bottom didn't work only when heat was applied to the top could I get it to move. So I started concentrating more on the hook shaft and hook assembly. More Tri-flow along the various screws and more inspection along the hook shaft. I found a couple pieces of hair around the shaft by the counter-balance. Carefully removed hoping that was it.... still no go.

Pondered some more and researched some more. Found a video at http://april1930s.com/fwh-11-a-stuck-hook-assembly/ so I went down to the library (have dial-up at home) and watched it. While it wasn't exactly what my problem was, it gave me a little more confidence about getting it off and back on. If I was able to get it off, I could make sure there wasn't something still stuck there. I had tried some of the screws along the shaft and marked with a Sharpie on the parts around the shaft. I did notice when all the screws were lined up that the hook assembly had different markings on the hook assembly shaft. Yesterday none of the screws would move. This morning two of the screws moved. I didn't move them much and tightened them back up. Hunted down some different screwdrivers for the hook assembly and counter balance screw. When I started to unscrew the counter balance something kind of moved. I tried the hand wheel bushing (I had taken hand wheel off) and it moved easily. I moved the counter balance toward the hook assembly and the screw back into position and tightened it. I can still move it easily. I was able to get the hook assembly off but can't get the screw loosened for the loop guard. There is some fiber between the loop guard and the shaft of the assembly. I have tried Kroil, heat, & CRC freez-off and still doesn't move. I am using a screwdriver that fits nicely in the slot, but the handle isn't the best. I'll let it sit with Tri-flow over night and see if I can get the screw out tomorrow.

At least it is moving and I am anxious to get it back together. It sure feels good to be able to just easily spin it a bit.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

I didn't realize you hadn't had it apart... A little heat might encourage that screw

I had taken the bobbin & case out and just had looked behind the hook assembly from the bottom and side. I did try heat on the screw and didn't seem to help. Maybe in the morning.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Yippee - happy dance -eureka - hallelujah
 

:):) I FIXED IT!!!!!!

Even though it was a different problem than what I thought originally, this featherweight is sewing. Actually it was sewing yesterday, but it had the infamous click. I'm glad it does. I couldn't get the springs set to reduce it. It really was a good thing because while I had the needle plate off, I decided to check the needle and noticed a slight tick as it came up at the back of the hook assembly that I hadn't noticed when I got it back together. I did turn the hand wheel by hand to make sure everything cleared before I plugged it in and tried to sew with it. Yesterday's stitches didn't look too bad --

[ATTACH=CONFIG]530700[/ATTACH]

I must have not set the hook assembly correctly on the "flat" I knew it wasn't very far off, but was definitely not right. So this morning I double checked the video that I had taken with the needle plate off and heard the tick. I undid the hook assembly set screws, adjusted it a bit and tightened the screws. Put it back together and tried again.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]530701[/ATTACH]


(The stitch samples are on three layers of a very well worn sheet with a size 14 needle. I also tried the binder.)

Now need to find the TR-3 or get some new....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]530702[/ATTACH]

Not bad for $50 plus tax Serial Number allocated January 29 1957. It included the case with instruction manual, Attachment box "160809 for class 221 machines" a key, empty size 16 Singer needle pack, two extra black spool felts plus the one on machine, 12-star ruffler (86742), 35931 adjustable hemmer w/ black side parts, 160359 multi-binder with guide, 120855 hemmer,121441 gatherer and 36865 edgestitcher.

I sure appreciate all the helpful and knowledgeable people on this board. Having read about some of the problems and solutions that are specific to featherweights I was able to get this machine back into operation. THANK YOU! :):):)

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Congrats on fixing it. Good price. I got my FW for the same, didn't have as much with it though. Mine is a couple years older than yours.

Cari

Janey,

Congratulations on getting your machine working. I have a 201-2 that was stuck from lack of use and dried-up gummy oil. It took a while to get it loosened, but I just kept at it! That's all you can do on these machines -- just keep at them! I have my own resident SM mechanic (my son) so if I get stuck, I can call on him! LOL! Again, Congrats -- you got a very good deal on the machine!

Jeanette

OurWorkBench, I'm inspired that you kept at it and were able to solve the issue. I'm learning a lot from all of you on this thread and board. I still have a thread jam in the bobbin area of my Featherweight that I need to take care of when I can find enough time to work on it.

Great price for that machine. $50 and either a little frustration or a learning experience-you pick- is a great deal.
Nice job finding the problem.
I'm sure Singer had some lemons. They made far too many machines not to have one or two leave the factory but overall I'm very impressed by the quality standards they had on their older machines.
Rodney

Janey, the only other thing I would suggest is going back to the beginning of this sticky and watch the video that Muv and Fav have posted. There are lots of ways to clean and lubricate machines. I cleaned a couple of my older machines with a metal cleaner and cotton crochet thread -- it's shown in the video!

Jeanette