Quiltingboard Forums

Quiltingboard Forums (https://www.quiltingboard.com/)
-   For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/)
-   -   FW Help Needed (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/fw-help-needed-t282785.html)

Cari-in-Oly 10-16-2016 07:18 PM

Just being low on lube won't make it smoke. It needs to be opened up and checked.

Cari

Mickey2 10-17-2016 03:59 AM

The motors usually turn out very well when cleaned and greased. You have the version I like the most, with the art nouveau decor on the plates and gold decals (well, they are all very nice). The chromed parts clean up very well with a metal polish, so does the needle and pressser bar. For the body I have used resin type car polish, even after cleaning it lifts up dirt and shines up. Be a bit careful with the decals, but with polishing once or twice a year or so it is more protected.

ILoveToQuilt 10-17-2016 11:33 AM

Thanks for all the info! DH is going to take motor apart and give it a good cleaning...hopefully this coming weekend. He said the brushes and armature look good from what he can see, so fingers crossed it just needs a good cleaning.

Mickey2: I gently cleaned the machine using mild dish detergent and water and dried it well. Looks great. Some minor dings, but seeing how old she is, nothing horrendous! Decals are all intact. Machine actually looks barely used or extremely well cared for. Got her for $75 at auction, so I am doing the happy dance. I will keep in mind the car polish and chrome polish (I always use Simachrome - used it on my motorcycle chrome).

sewred 10-17-2016 11:53 AM

Take off bottom cover and oil her there too. Check the belt position also that it isn't rubbing or too loose.
Hope I'm not coming across too bossy!
Hugs, and Stitches!!

Cari-in-Oly 10-17-2016 12:06 PM

You got lucky. You should never use water or water based products on a sewing machine.

Cari

ILoveToQuilt 10-17-2016 12:18 PM

The cloth I used was barely damp. Machine had mold and mildew on it when I took it out of the case, so I wanted something a bit "stronger" to clean it. Had to pitch the case as there was no saving it, no matter what I did. Tried for months to get mold/mildew out (charcoal, dryer sheets, mild washing [damp cloth only] - nothing worked). Had broken handle and no locks, so I thought it just wasn't worth keeping. (Also, corners were so banged up the outer fabric was ripped). Bought a vintage case in pristine condition on e-bay for $30 plus $10 shipping. My girl is happy in her new house.

Mickey2 10-17-2016 01:16 PM

Shellac in good condition can handle a wipe with a damp cloth. Before the days of microfiber or artificial leather, they recommended a well wringed up piece of goat or lamb leather for cleaning shellac furniture like a table top. Waxing and polishing have always been recommended too. As long as it's not flaking off or top layer on decals are worn off shellac can handle a careful cleaning. S'ewing m'achine oil is often recommended as the gentlest way about it, but as long as it's in good condition a damp microfiber cloth should not affect shellec. A resin type car polish will further lift up dirt and grime, leave a protective film making it shine like almost new. Since it's in such a good condition to start with it should be an easy job, it just takes a bit of care and time. Dings can be improved upon, but is a bit more work.

It's amazing what you can do to an old damaged case though. As long as all parts are there it's well worth a bit of time and effort to piece it back together; glue back lifted veneer, replace a few screws, reupholster it, etc., but with a lot of parts missing parts I don't know if they can be tracked down that easily.

Jeanette Frantz 10-17-2016 05:06 PM

Cari, my son was a SM mechanic for 14 years. There are times when there is no other alternative but to wash the machine -- of course, you remove the motor, but he's washed a lot of machines in a Purple Power of Simple Green solution. Of course, also, the machine must not be wet when the motor is re-installed and plugged in.

oregongirl 10-17-2016 05:16 PM

Congratulations on your new FW! I love the faceplate - it's gorgeous. I have 2 but both have the straight vertical lines - not nearly as pretty as yours.

Next time you have an issue with a case, try this link before giving up on it. I had success with heat getting rid of that moldy smell. https://www.facebook.com/groups/Vint...achines/files/

The title of the doc you want is calledHow To Rid Your Featherweight Case of Odor.docx

ILoveToQuilt 10-18-2016 04:45 PM

Thanks for the link for cleaning the case! I was bad :( too many missing parts and too many issues to save. It turned out cheaper for me to just replace the case with a "vintage" case. I could find the parts on e-bay, but would have cost more than the entire case. Will definitely bookmark the document, as I am constantly on the look-out for FW machines.

I actually own two now. One is a Centennial model, which was my mother's machine. It has been "living" with my aunt for the past 50 years (my mom only used it once or twice), but I can have it anytime I want it. I know it has tension issues, and the power cord needs replacing. (Someone replaced the foot pedal cord with a mint green cord years ago! I want to put it back with a black cord the way it originally was. I believe the power cord is black, but the cord into the pedal is green. Why oh why did they do this???)

Thanks for all the suggestions! I will definitely get some car polish and make my gal all shiny and sparkly!


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:37 PM.