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-   -   Help me with old grease in Singer 9510 (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/help-me-old-grease-singer-9510-a-t308498.html)

themadpatter 12-08-2019 06:48 PM

Help me with old grease in Singer 9510
 
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There is old grease caked on the needle bar of this machine. I went to oil it and eww, yuck! My question is, should I replace it with grease or smo? I don't know if grease is standard for this model or someone had a great idea.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]620709[/ATTACH]

OurWorkbench 12-08-2019 07:18 PM

Yuk. I have seen several machines with that gross grease, but usually not on needle bar. My instinct would be oil only.

Are you sure about the model? I'm only finding a 95-10 which is a black industrial.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

themadpatter 12-08-2019 08:00 PM

2 Attachment(s)
It's one of the newer, plastic made in Taiwan Singers. I bought it before I knew what I was doing. the good news is it was cheap, and it will make a good present for one of my little new sewists!
Here's a picture of it so you can see how newish it is, even though the top is off:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]620715[/ATTACH]
And here is the label:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]620716[/ATTACH]

themadpatter 12-08-2019 08:08 PM

Ah, dyslexia rears its ugly head once more: it's a 9015. Well, dang.

donna13350 12-08-2019 08:15 PM

I believe that in the 70's ?? Singer put out some models that didn't need oil..a new selling point..this may have been one of them.
You didn't say why you thought it needed oil. If it is running smoothly and not clunking, grinding or squeaking, I would leave well enough alone. Even if you were to get in there and wipe out all of that grease, what's left in the clearances for the needle bar would not allow regular SMO to get in there. If you are adamant that you need the grease gone, it would require taking a good portion of it apart to clean each piece...I wouldn't..I would leave well enough alone.

quiltedsunshine 12-08-2019 09:08 PM

I've seen that in a few Singers. It turns into something like wax, and freezes up the machine. Sometimes we have to break it off in chunks, with a small screwdriver. I imagine that the grease is along the upper shaft and in the gears, as well. The machine probably turns very slowly, if at all. And I'll bet you can't get it to make a zig-zag stitch. It's hard to remove when it hardens.

leonf 12-09-2019 07:13 AM

Sometimes hair dryers will loosen up old hardened grease. I'd hate to run it as is.

themadpatter 12-09-2019 01:31 PM

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OK!! I used rubbing alcohol and small stencil brushed, because they have nice stiff bristles and I got almost all of it off. Maybe all of it, by now. It had a sticky feeling film for a while, but I think that is all gone. Sounds pretty good now. I haven't taken the bottom off, yet, and I want to to see if I can see under the shuttle, because there is some of that crusty grease poking out around the edges.
Here's that "After" picture we all anticipate:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]620756[/ATTACH]
Sorry about the resolution. When I transferred it from my phone to my computer, it really affected the resolution.

OurWorkbench 12-09-2019 04:26 PM

Thank you. It looks a whole lot better. Good luck with getting the rest of it cleaned up.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.


quiltedsunshine 12-11-2019 08:11 PM

That looks great!

Mickey2 12-12-2019 08:06 AM

Grease under the face plate seems all wrong on this machine. It will never reach the inners of the joints on the swing arm, neither the lubrication points for the needle or presser bar. The similar but newer Singer and Janome models I have seen are oiled in these places. Machines like this hardly ever get any service or maintanance, they just go very noisy after a couple of years with either grease or oil.

Rocketeer 12-16-2019 07:58 AM

I would recommend "KrudKutter" to remove any grease or varnished oil -- it's water based and non-toxic, and where plastic is involved I'd worry about alcohol-based solvents softening the plastic. That said, the rote I've been taught is "grease for gears, SMO for everything else." I think this has to do with the fact that slide-y parts especially like a needlebar can be slowed down actually by a viscous lubricant like grease.
If a remover like KrudKutter or alcohol is used, I'd think to rapidly get the surface cleaned and then oil it, to prevent flash rust from forming. If rust does form, the folks at KrudKutter make another incredible product, The Must for Rust, that not only removes light rust but forms a protective barrier until you can get oil on there.
These are things I've learned from AndyTube and from my own experience. I have no financial relationship to any product or company (except an undying loyalty to Singer :D)

Cheers!
Matt

Mickey2 12-16-2019 02:47 PM

I would add that a lot of gears are oiled on vitage machines, plastic as well as steel, Elnas, Berninas, The early manual for 201s called for oil on the bottom meshing gears, and only grease for the gears near the handwheel on the potted motor version. Only later manuals recommend grease for all three set of meshing gears, the oil points are still there on the later versions too. My main point is, with some things you can go by your own preferance.

Pat M. 12-17-2019 03:01 PM

Get a dental pick and scrape the grease off, the heat probably made it spread. I really think it just needs oil where metal meets metal. You also have lint on the needle bar than needs to be removed. You can use Q-tips, cotton balls to help clean up the grease. There are produces for cleaning grease just be careful where you put it. Use oil when all is cleaned up.


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