Help with my "New" Singer 201
 

My new to me Singer 201 needs new wires.
I can handle that!! But wait----
But I need help in removing the motor.

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I have the adjusters manual but it is for very early machines. This one is a 1940 model.
I took the screws out but the motor and housing won't budge. Is there something I am missing, like do I need to take off the drive nut on the end of the shaft? It seems to be holding the housing of the motor?? In the instructive stuff I find online, the housing looks flat with a hole, this one seems to have a collar on it??
Anyone else have this problem??
Thanks for all your help in advance, I read your posts everyday and have learned so much already, Yes, a Great Big Thank YOU!

Ethel

Ethel,

I don't know if my son could help or not, but I'll have him take a look when he gets off work. He gets off at 10:00 p.m. and home about 11:00 p.m. He recently removed the motor on my 201 and completely re-wired (except for the coils).

Jeanette

Hi,

This is Ethel again, Whooopee!! I managed to get the motor off. I had put some triflow between the motor and machine thinking it might be stuck and I think it helped and I got the motor off. Next question, how do I get to where the wires need replacing. They are bare right up to the crumbling old rubber socket?

I don't know what happened to Jennetts reply, but yes I could use you son's help.
Thank you!

Ethel

Ethel, my son (who was a sewing machine mechanic for 14 years) doesn't get off work until 10:00 p.m, and will be home about 11:00 ET (about 8:00 p.m. your time) I'll have him take a look and pm you!

Jeanette

Here's part 1 of a multi-part how-to guide by Rain. It's probably the best tutorial out there for it: http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/12/ho...rt-1-wire.html

I'm sure it's linked in the resources thread, which is always a good place to start when looking for information.

This is Phillip.

The tutorial listed is much less complicated than the procedure that I used on Mom's 201 motor. I un soldered the brush wires and very carefully removed the field coils from the motor core (Not the armature !!!!!!!!). Then I removed all of the original wrapping tape from both coils and replaced the supply leads with high temperature wire rated at 250 degrees C. After this I re wrapped the coils with fiberglass cloth tape, re installed the coils, re soldered the wires to the brush holders, and finished assembling the motor. As far as the eyelets at the end of the leads I found some brass grommets (sewing notions) to make the loops. I wrapped the stripped ends of the wires around each grommet and used grommet / snap pliers to compress them. Once this was done I tinned the wire and grommet with solder.

I will state that my procedure is not for the squeamish. It would be best to use the procedure linked here instead of mine

This is Phillip.

The terminal connections on the 201 and 221 are the same as long as they both use a double lead cord.

On the connector block the lead from the switch connects to terminal 1. The lead from the light connects to terminal 3. The motor leads connect to terminals 2 and 3.

I would recommend searching youtube and google for Dim Bulb Tester. I collect old Zenith table radios that seem to find me and I always use this device to test them for my safety and prevent possible damage to the radio. I would recommend using a dim bulb tester with the vintage machines. A 100 watt incadescent bulb in the tester would be a starting point and then step up to as much as 300 to 500 watts of light bulbs.

Good advice Phillip.

Thank you for letting me know that the grommet and eyelet is a known way to end wires. Whoever rewired my machine before me used a brass grommet too but did not tin it. I was not sure whether that was acceptable or not.

This is Phillip

The reason that I un installed the field coils, removed the old wrapping tape, replaced the power leads, and re wrapped the field coils with fiberglass cloth tape is the possibility that the old tape is oil soaked and will carbonize over time causing leakage current to the metal frame of the machine which is dangerous.

Another idea is to obtain a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) adapter possibly from Lowes, Home Depot, or most hardware stores. Plug the machine into the adapter, turn on the light, and run it. If the GFCI trips further checking of all the wiring is necessary. It could be a life saver

Thanks Phillip and others who answered.
I did manage to get the motor off and I did find a wireing diagram to get them back right. I also found a blog about rewiring and there is a kit available on ebay to do the rewire. It has a rubber grommet for the motor wires and shrink tube and even some new grease wicks for the grease pots.
The blog walks you through it really well, but as I have only done a small amount of soldering I may try to find someone to help me, like maybe my brother. I can't believe how completely brittle the insulation is on the motor wire and the wire to the pedal. The power cord is still flexible and in good shape. I am thinking it may be a replacement. Someone had used tape on parts of the wires. I have a in cabinet 201 that is fine and it is a year older than this one. The cords on it are good.
Thanks again everyone, and I will update you on my progress.

Ethel

I should have read this thread through from the beginning. I guess I lean to the K.I.S.S. theory because I sure didn't go to the extent that Phillip did when I rewired the motor on my 15-91 (same motor as the 201-2). Just in case my thoughts and experiences might be of interest, here's the post I made when I did mine.
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...r-t205360.html }.
My machine runs just fine and sews up a pink storm.


Phillip,
Can you post a pic of that dim bulb machine you mentioned? Sounds like an ancient gadget I'd like to have.


Joe

Edited
 

This is Phillip.

I'll attach four pictures of it including the schematic and try to include a parts list and information about building it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]519126[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519127[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519128[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519129[/ATTACH]

The 600 watt dimmer is optional. The tester will be easier to build if the dimmer and ammeter banana jacks are left off. Also only a single switch is needed unless the ammeter bypass switch is used as a power switch. Suspicious machines warrant this tester to be plugged into a GFCI outlet

Materials needed:

2 4 inch metal electrical box with matching dual duplex cover plate.
1 single cover plate for a switch (for the dimmer
1 duplex receptacle
1 duplex switch (can be a single switch if not using an AC ammeter with the tester)
1 three prong extension cord 6 foot (DO NOT USE A TWO WIRE CORD !!!!)
1 light socket that plugs directly into a receptacle (Picture included)
1 dual Y adapter (optional)
2 banana plug jacks (optional)
2 12 inch banana plug leads (optional)
2 Romex connectors to tie the boxes together if built to the picture
1 600 watt light dimmer ( DO NOT USE WITH INDUCTION MOTORS OR TRANSFORMER OPERATED DEVICES) Doing so may let the smoke out of them and they won't work right. (Sorry for the bad humor)

Most vintage machines uses carbon brushes so no harm done as long as the motor is running at one third speed up to full speed.

Various incandescent light bulbs ranging 15 to 300 watts.
Connecting wire to make the necessary internal connections.

The duplex receptacle needs to have the brass jumpers removed on the silver and brass sides. The switch likely will have one jumper but it can be left intact. A complete schematic is attached and can be modified to fit your needs. The materials list above is as built

Build and use with caution and at your own risk

If there are any questions please ask and I'll reply as soon as possible

This is Phillip.

Three Romex connectors are needed for the dim bulb tester instead of two. The third is needed for the cord.

This is Phillip
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Here are 2 pictures of the 201 potted motor I rewired. I performed the same re wire technique several times when I worked at a local sewing machine and vacuum sales and service shop.