Help removing hand wheel on Singer 127
 

Hi all -- I just got a 1923 Singer 127 that has a solid hand wheel, presumably for a motor. I'm trying to remove the hand wheel so that I can replace the tire on the bobbin winder.

I have removed the silver knob that you use to stop the needle's motion as well as the washer underneath it, but the hand wheel itself is just..... stuck. The wheel turns smoothly enough, it just wont come off the machine. I have tried adding sewing machine oil and heating it up a bit with a hair dryer in hopes of loosening it, but no luck.

Am I missing a screw or something? Or if you think it's just rust/gunk, are there any tips for safely loosening it?

Photos attached of the current state of the hand wheel with the knob & washer removed. Thanks so much for your help!

Welcome. I'm wondering if you can prop it on something so that you don't mess up the nose, so the handwheel is facing the ceiling and then apply oil or maybe some penetrating oil. I've had good luck with Tri-Flow oil for stubborn screws.

I was thinking the bobbin winder should swing out so that the tire could be replaced or maybe remove the bobbin winder Have you removed the belt guard?

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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Thank you, I will definitely try tilting the machine -- I'll set it up with sewing machine oil tonight and go get some Tri-Flow if that doesn't work.

About the bobbin winder - I think you're right that I could probably remove it to add a tire, and I'll try that if I really can't get the hand wheel off. However, I'd like to unstick the handwheel because I think this is also causing the needle to keep turning when I try to wind the bobbin, based on this video: https://singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/how-to-adjust-the-handwheel

I haven't removed the belt guard yet; the screw is a bit stuck but I could probably try Tri-Flow as you suggested. I've attached pictures of the bobbin winder in both positions -- you can see there's not really room to add a tire even when I swing it out unless I remove it.

I think, though I'm not sure, that the motor belt would have originally turned the bobbin winder since there's no evidence of an old tire. However, I don't plan to add a motor and I think I'll just turn the wheel by hand - I won't really sew large volumes with this machine. Given this, I thought adding a tire to the bobbin winder would be good to get it working. Does anyone have thoughts on this approach?

Sometimes have to resort to using a rubber mallet and breaking the seal of old dried up oil (usually the cause of stuck handwheels). Only needs gentle taps as you start to free it off. Common problem but easy to release with a bit of patience https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images...es/thumbup.png along with a touch of a release agent (could be enough alone).

Yes, it is best to have the stop motion clamp to be working properly.

Actually, the 127 bobbin winder would have originally had a tire. The tire would ride the hub of the hand wheel. The 27 model machine originally came as a treadle and the bobbin winder was lower on the pillar, which put it in the position to be run by the belt. There is a manual at https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_mac...ls/127-128.pdf but is illustrated with the larger spoked wheel. The bobbin winder was moved up on the pillar so that it could ride the hub and be used with a motor or treadle as seen at https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintag...a-t287276.html post #5. It seems like I have read that there was some crossover of the bobbin winder position on some of the 27s between high and low.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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Thank you both. I tilted the machine, added sewing machine oil, left it for half an hour, and tried removing the wheel with no luck :/ I also tried tapping at it a bit with a hammer covered in a double layer of towels since I don't have a rubber mallet, but that didn't work either. I must admit, it felt *very* wrong to be taking a hammer to my beautiful machine!

I think I will need to obtain a real solvent like Tri Flow - it's not just sorta stuck, it really will not budget at all. Will let you know if it works!

The good news is that I was able to remove the motor guard (& bobbin winder along with it), and I have now successfully replaced the tire on the bobbin winder! So even if the stop motion clamp isn't working, I can wind bobbins!

When I resort to the rubber hammer I will slowly turn the when so I never hit twice in the same place as I am trying to nudge it to the end of the shaft.

A frustrating update: I left some Tri Flow draining in for a few hours, reapplied it, tapped with a hammer, and pulled really hard. It still will not budge a millimeter and if I didn't know better I'd swear the hand wheel and the shaft were one piece of metal.

Any other tips I should try? Or more details on what's worked in the past (eg how long to leave the Tri Flow, other solvents to use, etc.)?

Also, just to confirm that I'm oiling in the right place... here's a picture with the area I'm oiling marked in blue.

Yes, if you have the hand wheel up. Maybe oil to the right of the spool pin, as there are two, maybe three between the spool pin and the hand wheel on top. Then put machine with nose in air so that oil can get to from the other side. I have usually had success letting it sit overnight. I'm going to go out on a limb, if it was mine, I would let it sit one night oiled well each direction. Since that is a solid hand wheel it should be smaller diameter than a spoked hand wheel, I'm wondering if a strap wrench would help. I might find a block of wood that would fit under the needle bar with needle removed and needle bar in highest position. Then maybe use a strap wrench on the hand wheel - maybe try both directions. Technically, it should just slide off, not twist. Perhaps some rocking back and forth, like rocking a stuck car, would allow oil to get in places it wasn't able to reach. I have some Kroil and would probably try that. Others have used PB B'laster, I'm not sure what either would do to the Japanning or decals, so would prefer Tri-Flow or sewing machine oil.

I'm wondering if the hand wheel is straight and perpendicular to the bed. The reason I'm asking is that I have a Junker & Ruh that the hand wheel was crooked. Turns out the flange bushing (unfortunately pot metal) was cracked and finally broke .https://www.quiltingboard.com/attach...angebushsm.jpg As it turns out, I was able to take it to my brother and he had a hard time getting the rest of it off, but was able to and fixed it, so now I can use the machine.

When working on these oldies, we have a tendency to want results right now. We need to remind ourselves, that it took a long time to get in the current condition and may take a while to get it loose (easier said, then done).

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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