so here are the pics that go with the post above:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]370897[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]370898[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]370899[/ATTACH]

Here are some videos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/5452603...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5452603...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5452603...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5452603...n/photostream/

so hopefully this helps some.

Ok,.. I have a couple of guesses.

First,.. there's another bunch of spots you can oil that might help. I found one of the machines here with that same mechanism, and it was stiff, maybe not as stiff as yours, but stiff enough my hand's a little sore from all of the playing. (Or that could be partly from the complete dis-assembly of a featherweight today too) Oiling these spots made a difference. It's still not perfect, but it's possible it'll loosen up overnight too.

In the first picture, I've removed the rod and the actuator to show more clearly where I want you to oil. Do both sides of the pin, the side you can see, then the other side that you only see when that metal tab is all the way out. You'll see that the pin moves in and out of the body of the machine, so it needs to be free moving.

In pic number 2, get where that rod starts to disappear into the gear. Again, it's a fairly tight tolerance, and needs some freedom to move.

In Pic 3, the top of the machine, oil all three spots indicated.

Sometimes I oil as I'm actuating, so that I can get the most possible oil in.

Now actuate that puppy a bunch of times from the bottom and see if it starts to loosen up. (watch out for spray if you oiled a little more than needed. I got a bunch of it in the face because I was leaned close to watch.)

Now, take a break and let it seep in and do its work.

Second, the collar on the actuator looks like it's a touch lower than the shaft it rides on. This is about leverage. If that collar is too low, you're working too hard to push the actuator. If it's too high though, the actuator will bind on the metal piece and it won't work properly either. I'd like you to leave this til last though, because I found that adjusting that collar was a real pain in the a.... uhm... rear. The hex screw btw is probably metric. It's not quite a good fit for a 1/16" hex key, it should be a size up, but 5/64 is too big.


Also, I see a shine on the rubber gears above the area we're working on. It would be a really good idea to get that off the gears. Oil / grease will eat the rubber, then you'll have to replace the gears. Not one of Singer's better ideas.

Those gears are rubber!? Yeah I did oil them. Ack! *runs to wipe it off*

Ok so I will oil the places you say. I think I need to go out and buy a more precise oil container. I have some difficulty reaching certain places. But yes more oil and I will be back to report findings after work! (I think I need more oil too! Wait... I'm waiting on a bottle of tri... I'm going to have a whole tool box at this rate!)

Go to a bicycle shop or sew-classic and get some Triflow - that stuff is great for what you are trying to do.

I am currently waiting for an order from sew classic. :) with triflow in it.

Yup!! It's hard to tell until you see one that's crumbled.

I use a monojet syringe (I think it's called an oral syringe.) Jenny also sells them. Next batch of pictures I take, I'll try to remember to take a pic for you. The Zoom Spout oilers work pretty well too, just don't loose the little cap, it's unbelievably messy if you do.

I already have a couple of toolboxes and "parts bins". This way I keep these tools clean, not grungy from the garage projects, etc.

I should probably be extolling the virtues of triflow, but until today I had a heck of a time finding it. Sew-Classic can't ship it to me, so I had to hunt it down. Finally found it (really expensive though)

Re: the tool box
Won't be long before you will have more than one if you are going to be doing your own repairs. Especially if you become a machine collector (ugh addict) like some of us.

Hahaha. Well my boyfriend gifted me for my a birthday a singer organizer that has room for several large spools of threads, little spools, pins, bobbins, etc. I managed to fit some other things in there and then I have a small makeup train case I picked up at goodwill for like 3 bucks with mY rotary cutters, more pins, needles and stuff like that. :) so far most of the machines have their own "goody bags" easily kept with the machine. I don't know whether to keep it like or get another box and label different compartments for each machine part.

We should do a new whole thread on pics of our tool boxes some time... I picked up a big tall metal box from GW - it has a bunch of drawers and then a file box at the top - I put manuals up there. I just love it - I wish I had the money to buy the other one at the time.

I keep a kit by each machine too - when I sell a machine I try to put a kit with it.

I keep a couple of different boxes. I have my sewing organizer that holds the "non-machine specific" things - thread, needles, etc. I have a tackle box that holds electrical things, bits of motors, wick, carbon disks, etc. Then there's an organizer that holds all the other parts - homeless feet, screws, bobbins, needle plates, cabinet parts and whatnots.

Most of my machines also have a box beside them with their specific parts, like Miriam describes.

It all totally depends on how your mind works. The best organization scheme is the one you will get behind and use. :)
Mine is an ongoing project. I add or subtract machines and stuff, and things get rearranged. I sold 4 machines (and taught 2.5 people to sew!) this weekend, and now I'm rearranging again to get it efficient in my sewing room again.

Yeah! I could use some new tool ideas :)