Let's talk about rust
 

Many of you buy machines in perfect or near perfect condition so rust is not really an issue but some of you buy "antique" machines or fixer uppers. I'm talking about the machines that are between "near perfect" and "rust-bucket" (needing full re-paint).

What do you do (if anything) with paint chipped off the edges? or how about the 2 or 3 areas on the bed where there is a small bit of rust and the paint is bubbled around it?

I just tackled one that was badly rusted with bubbling paint. On that one I scraped off the worst of the rust and flaking paint and just oiled it. I wasn't sure how far to take trying to repair it because I knew I was going to give it back to the original owner's family.
I think it depends on the machine. A couple small areas aren't a big deal. Cleaning the rust off and just oiling the machine goes a long way toward making it look better and slows down any further rust. I would scrape off the loose paint so rust can't hide under it, also a smooth bed is easier to sew on.
Rodney

How do you go about cleaning the rust off? Did you worry about the edges too or just the flat bed?

Let's talk about rust.
 

Here is some pics of a rust bucket 99 and what I do with it. Take the bobbin area apart soak in evaposrust this stood several days. Then all was brushed with a dremel and cupped brass brush. Did not do anything for the pitting put it is clean. Large areas of paint were missing on the bed and chips on the arm. Scraped all the loose paint sanded it bright and shinny and beveled the edges of the good paint. Primed and painted the be. The arm had fair decals so left them. Believe it or not the machines sews like a champ and is quiet considering the amount of rust. It took three weeks to free up the needle bar. Now I am working on making it pretty again touching up chips with paint. Will take me some time to smooth and polish but rust buckets can be made to sew again. This was the worst one I have seen and no I did not buy it a neighbor gave it to me. Next time someone wants to give me a machine I hope I am smart enough to refuse if it looks like this one.
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Wow Glenn! Look at you go! You have more energy than I do for sure! I have a couple questions.

When do I use a brass brush and when do I choose a wire brush (steel?)

What kind of primer and paint did you use? Type and was it spray can or what? Did you prime the bed only on the bare spots or did you go over the whole thing?

Nice job Glenn! That one started in way worse condition than the 15 I was talking about.
Fortunately the rust was confined to the outside for the most part on mine though the crank ran red with rust for a few days of oiling it.
Rodney

If the spots are tiny, then you can clean down to the metal, spray auto primer in a small container and paint on with a very small artist paint brush. Then paint with Rustoleum black paint, either spray or can. I spray it into a small, disposable container and paint it on and feather the edges. Then I use Carnuba wax to protect it. If the whole bed is bad and the decals can't be saved, then I sand, steel wool, prime with the appropriate metal primer, then spray it. From there, you can get new decals or leave it alone. I use the wax rather than a clear coat, but all of this is up to you. It saves the machine for perhaps a full restoration later. White Godzillas have aluminum castings, so require a VERY different primer, which is available at WalMart and white in color, but it takes paint well and so far so good.

Wow! Is that a Centennial? Glenn, you can really make these machines look wonderful.

Christy, I taped off the arm and primed and painted the entire bed. I used automotive gloss black and primer from my local auto store. Rustoleum. I use the brass brush it is softer than the steel one. You can use the steel one with no problems it will remove rust faster. Yes spray cans.

Yes Rodney it is a cent.

Sorry Barny I meant to say you not Rodney. I have senior moments on occasion.:o

Wow!! Terrific job Glenn! How long did the whole process take you?

Deb it took about 6 weeks to get this far. Most of the time was waiting to get things unstuck with Blast Buster and the soaking of parts in evapo rust and cleaning them. Normally it takes about three days but this was the worse case of rust I have seen on a vintage machine.

Not a problem, Glenn. I have those Senior Moments way too much! ha Thanks for answering all our questions.

Yeah that's what I wanted to hear. That is what I am thinking about doing withe the Pfaff 11 I have. The decals are in decent shape for it's age but I have a few areas on the bed that had bubbled paint and rust spots. I don't want to re-do the whole thing. I love that she shows her age and I have her stitching now too. I just want to touch up her rust spots and let her age old beauty shine though.

Thanks Glenn. I got the bobbin winder working and did a test stitch and it was all good. Now I need to run to the automotive store and pick up some paint. I used the steel wire brush on my dremel today and it seemed to take off the rust and remove the bubbled paint in the couple of spots on the bed I was worried about. Now I can touch up the spots and have this ole gal working again.

OMG Glenn, beautiful job! No senior moment there. I envey your talent.

I've done some rusty machines, too - maybe gave up on one that rusty, Glenn. Most often the rust is somewhat surfacy and not terribly pitted. If it is terribly pitted it is a lot more work. Some times it is hard to tell at first glance if a machine has rust or dried up oil. Dried up oil will clean up with solvent. Some times I've used bicycle chain oil to clean rust off parts I don't really want to pull out of the guts of a machine. The green oil has some kind of detergent and will clean rust off. Think about bike chains and rain... Then I clean that up after the machine turns. I don't use evap-o-rust since it costs an arm and a leg. So for the little bit parts that come off and can be dried off, I put a pinch of citric acid in a bit of water in a zip bag and soak.... vinegar will work, too. Then when I pull them out of the bag I use a green scrub pad and some Dawn to get them cleaned up. Some times I put them back to soak after cleaning with the Dawn. If needed I wire brush with the Dremel. I don't paint. I just build up shellac. I guess I'm ok with the steam punk looking WORKING sewing machines. I like to see some history. Almost always those old machines can be made to run - it can be time consuming, right Glenn?

Yes it is very time consuming Miriam, but these old machines are worth it. I know I spend to much time on some of them but enjoy the work and it keeps me out of trouble. :o

Allow me to make a suggestion for next time. Use Duplicolor #DE1635 Spray paint.

That specific part number is a High Temp Ceramic semi-gloss engine enamel. I found it through my research into japanning. A guy who does professional restoration of antique japanned tools tried this product, and because of the ceramic content it lays down thicker and flows just like japanning. He actually showed a comparison between a "properly" japanned tool and one sprayed with this product. There is virtually no difference.

If I can track down the original site I will share it.

I started using this on repainted parts and it not only looks correct it blends with the old japanned stuff really well.

yes please do post a link!!! Not everything should have a steampunk look.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...01&type=thread

and another great Japanning resource that mentions the DE1635
https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pl.../japanning.htm

Wahooo I found it within a mile of my house!

Thanks Steve I appreciate the info and will take your advice. I mostly used aniline dye in shellac to match the japan. This is the first machine I used paint on. This process takes a long time and painting would save a lot of time.

Thank you for the information Steve. I am going to look tomorrow and see what I can find around town. I hope I get lucky like Miriam.

I feel bad about recommending such a simple modern solution (unlike ALL of the other way to do things...) but this specific part number paint is amazing. I am buying the paint by the case since I use it on the Corvair and on sewing machines, and on treadle bases, and old tools and...... It really does paint differently than anything I have used before.

Note: Paint on a test piece and watch the shine change before you do it on an important piece. I over applied the first time because it looks pretty different when wet vs dry. Once I just "shot it right" and left it alone it was awesome.

Don't feel bad Steve I am always looking for better ways to do things. Old dogs can learn new tricks.

Thanks Steve for the info :) Anything that cuts down time and really works well would be worth trying.

google is your friend

I scored! Napa Auto Parts here in town had it. :) Yay! I am looking forward to giving it a try.

Steve, what are you saying? "I over applied the first time because it looks pretty different when wet vs dry. Once I just "shot it right" and left it alone it was awesome." Should I am to go light and plan for a re-coat?

Because it has a ceramic compound in it it is very easy to apply too thickly so yes plan on the second coat and you probably will not need it

Steve, does it expand as it dries?

I have not noticed that happening.

That looks awesome...Good job....