I have a complete setup just like this as a 99 and a 128. No diagram. It's straight forward - power to reastat, knee controller varies power through reastat to motor, lamp wired directly from power throw switch. Can post pictures after Christmas if you desire.

awesome. Yes, please post pictures and just want to know what wire goes to where and all. Appreciate it. Thanks again.

here's what i gathered ONLINE regarding Chicago and Manhattan connectors. Apparently they are different from each other. nice blog about National Reversew "REX" (Model RUSA) Sewing Machine.

Sewing machine 2-pin plugs are probably all referred to as "Chicago" connectors by most people, but there's definitely two different sizes of them. The Manhattan type had rubber boots that slid over the bare electrical connections. The boots looked similar to the boot on an older style automobile coil wire on the distributor. On the "Chicago" connectors, the conductors are attached (wrapped) around the screws in plates, versus inserted into the end of tubes and secured with a screw threaded into the side of the tube as on the Manhattan [I remember working with a 4 pin version of the Manhattan connector. -ed].

Manhattan probably is correct. This is what the cable female connectors look like. The connectors slip on those prongs that are near the controller. One wire from these two prongs will go to controller other goes straight to motor and lamp switch. The hot wire to the controller will also connect to other side of lamp to complete the circuit when hot wire to lamp is switched to complete circuit for lamp. The second wire coming off the controller will go to the other motor connection. I will check but I don't think the bakelite 3-prong connector is original. Sorry if this is not clear, I will get pictures as soon as possible.

You guys are mixing apples and oranges. The Singer 28 used Singer single-pin connectors on early knee controls. The Chicago and Manhattan connectors being discussed and shown in the other photos are two-pin connectors on National machines. Not the same thing.


CD in Oklahoma

Singer 306W24 Treadle
 

Since there’s still ice unloading from trees and powerlines north of us (where our power comes from), I’ve been staying off of the computer most of the time to avoid having too many sudden shut-downs. I’ve been passing the time watching old 1970s Western VCR movies (collected at yardsales over time) and doing a little mending with my Singer 306W treadle.


I discovered that I had never figured out a fix for the bobbin winder after changing to a Singer spoked handwheel on the 306W. I had switched wheels to give more hand control while treadling during a bout of windsock making a while back, since the 306W is very unforgiving if you turn the machine backwards. It makes a heck of a tangle to get cut loose. I used a new aftermarket wheel that the center hole has been drilled so far off that I was too embarrassed to sell it to anyone, so I used it on this machine. It wobbles like crazy, but the drive belt maintains good enough contact to keep it going.


To adapt the bobbin winder, I used a strip of tooling leather to make a band to fit around the hub of the wheel to build it out far enough to allow contact by the rubber BW tire. I connected the ends of the leather strip together using a small nail (sometimes called a brad), and then forced the strip onto the hub for a fairly tight fit. I have to hold the BW against the hub to wind a bobbin, and between the tire going over the nail and the wheel being out-of-round, there’s some noise and vibration, but it works. LOL!


CD in Oklahoma

CD, I wondered about using a rubber belt on the wheel - it sure would have to be a close fit. One I have was motorized and since the BW worked off the belt they put a screen door spring on there. I'm not sure where that one is though or if the fix works.

A rubber belt may work, I haven’t tried one to see how snug it might fit. This fix is working, and with the wheel hub being off-center and womping (is that a word?) around like a lump on a car tire, I’ll probably have to hold pressure on the BW manually anyway.


I have a strap cutter down at the shop somewhere that I think I can find. I think I’ll use this cobbled up strap for while to make sure it continues to work, and if so, use the strap cutter to cut a second leather strap that is more uniform to replace it. I cut this one in my bikeshop with a large pair of shears, and I didn’t get it cut very straight. I can counter-sink the nail clip into the leather, and dye the leather to help it blend in better. I’ve been thinking about re-painting the wheel, but it’s hard to match colors (using rattle-can paint), so I may be as well off to keep the wheel black and dye the leather to match.


I need to correct my statement of “Singer spoked handwheel” that I posted above. This is an aftermarket handwheel, and not a genuine Singer-made wheel.


CD in Oklahoma

CD, I understand that the Singer cable is a Singer product, but isn't the concept of the Manhattan single pin the same? My machines have a female plug for each wire and each plug slips over a single prong to complete the power circuit. Wouldn't the analogy instead of oranges and apples be more Washington apples and Winesap apples, both being apples? I'm assuming this picture is a power cord made up of single pin plugs. I'll let more knowledgeable posters carry on.

for your treadle and antique sewing machine parts, this ONLINE SITE might help. i found the Singer Electric Connector Plug #190659 (female and male type and the screw on type).