I love it! Good job!


But, I gotta go......ice storm....power going off and on.....UPS battery kaputt....PC not happy....treadle time.


CD in Oklahoma

and i am fiddling with my 28. my wirings are all toast so i need to do an extensive re-wirings. no idea if motor is running. it has a knee controller assembly but i googled and checked online and couldn't see any wiring diagram. any one knows how to wire this assembly? have no idea what the two prongs are for (see 2 red arrows). would appreciate it if someone can educate me on wiring this knee controller assembly. thanks again.

The prongs are the male part of a cable connection, obviously missing. Some call it a Chicago connection, some call it a Mannhattan connection, I believe. This connection is the original power cable. It has been wired around.

Hi vmaniqui,

Few Questions

Want to convert to Hand Crank?
Is the cloth wrapped cords on the motor in good condition?
Are you using a light?
Do you want to spend the money for a knee lever or go the less expensive foot controller route?

I'd recommend the foot controller or the hand crank.

Jon

Yes, the cloth wiring part on the motor are all intact. Wanted to go hand crank route but got outbid on eBay for a hand crack and it was sold for $60+ . Too much for me for a hand crank. Foot pedal maybe economical but since I have the assembly all intact , the wanna be electrician in me prevailed so wanted to try to make it work. I can just buy the metal knee lever. I found a wiring diagram but it's just the basic one. I want to see the complete wiring diagram so that I can work on it. Thanks.

Thanks. I will try to google that connection. Yes mine was wired and re wired around and I took out all the wirings to rewire again. I just wish someone here has the same set up as mine and share me the wiring diagram.

You can buy the hand crank parts from sew-classic for not too much when she has them in stock. I redo the rubber end though - works well enough!

Sew Classic has a repro hand crank for $15 plus shipping: http://www.sew-classic.com/

You can also buy a double lead cord, foot controller and even a light which is all you'd need for an "easy" electrical set up.

Knee Bar will run you at least $40 and you have to make sure you get the right one. You'd also need the connectors and power cord to work with the two prongs you pointed out. Usually the controller is so old it needs fooling with. I'd only go this route if set on restoring to original working condition.

Good Luck
Jon

Hmm. Might be a good idea to just take the foot pedal route. Since I've got my light and everything else, maybe I could check ebay for a foot pedal. But I will see if I can still work on this, otherwise - foot it is. Thanks.

One does not have to negate the other. As you saw, all of the connections are screwed on, nothing is permanent. You could do the foot controller, and work on sourcing the knee lever parts as time goes by. Then the foot controller can just go to another Singer, or... use it as a testing one for all the other machines you'll work on. ;)

Correct, the wicks are inside little metal holders inside the grease pots. :) I don't think that Rain went through the rebuilding of the light at the time, but once you've done the motor, it's a cake walk.

He goes through soldering, tools and everything in that (those) post(s).

It's extremely rewarding when it does go right. ;) I had done wiring before, mostly on vehicles, but I wouldn't say it's much harder from scratch, not with his tutorial. That first motor was nerve wracking though. The first 2 cuts of the wire, because there was no going back from there. After that, I just had to work slowly through the tutorials. We all start somewhere. You'll feel so good when it's up and running at the speed it should be.

If the wire came right apart at the joint to the coils, it's really hard to repair, is that where it was? As long as you have about 1.5" of a tail sticking out, it should be doable. I'm 99% sure that an eternal motor conversion would work. I've thought about going the other way with my 15-90 Centennial, but I only have one potted motor in the house at the moment, and the 201 runs so nicely with it.

I have a complete setup just like this as a 99 and a 128. No diagram. It's straight forward - power to reastat, knee controller varies power through reastat to motor, lamp wired directly from power throw switch. Can post pictures after Christmas if you desire.

awesome. Yes, please post pictures and just want to know what wire goes to where and all. Appreciate it. Thanks again.

here's what i gathered ONLINE regarding Chicago and Manhattan connectors. Apparently they are different from each other. nice blog about National Reversew "REX" (Model RUSA) Sewing Machine.

Sewing machine 2-pin plugs are probably all referred to as "Chicago" connectors by most people, but there's definitely two different sizes of them. The Manhattan type had rubber boots that slid over the bare electrical connections. The boots looked similar to the boot on an older style automobile coil wire on the distributor. On the "Chicago" connectors, the conductors are attached (wrapped) around the screws in plates, versus inserted into the end of tubes and secured with a screw threaded into the side of the tube as on the Manhattan [I remember working with a 4 pin version of the Manhattan connector. -ed].

Manhattan probably is correct. This is what the cable female connectors look like. The connectors slip on those prongs that are near the controller. One wire from these two prongs will go to controller other goes straight to motor and lamp switch. The hot wire to the controller will also connect to other side of lamp to complete the circuit when hot wire to lamp is switched to complete circuit for lamp. The second wire coming off the controller will go to the other motor connection. I will check but I don't think the bakelite 3-prong connector is original. Sorry if this is not clear, I will get pictures as soon as possible.

You guys are mixing apples and oranges. The Singer 28 used Singer single-pin connectors on early knee controls. The Chicago and Manhattan connectors being discussed and shown in the other photos are two-pin connectors on National machines. Not the same thing.


CD in Oklahoma

Singer 306W24 Treadle
 

Since there’s still ice unloading from trees and powerlines north of us (where our power comes from), I’ve been staying off of the computer most of the time to avoid having too many sudden shut-downs. I’ve been passing the time watching old 1970s Western VCR movies (collected at yardsales over time) and doing a little mending with my Singer 306W treadle.


I discovered that I had never figured out a fix for the bobbin winder after changing to a Singer spoked handwheel on the 306W. I had switched wheels to give more hand control while treadling during a bout of windsock making a while back, since the 306W is very unforgiving if you turn the machine backwards. It makes a heck of a tangle to get cut loose. I used a new aftermarket wheel that the center hole has been drilled so far off that I was too embarrassed to sell it to anyone, so I used it on this machine. It wobbles like crazy, but the drive belt maintains good enough contact to keep it going.


To adapt the bobbin winder, I used a strip of tooling leather to make a band to fit around the hub of the wheel to build it out far enough to allow contact by the rubber BW tire. I connected the ends of the leather strip together using a small nail (sometimes called a brad), and then forced the strip onto the hub for a fairly tight fit. I have to hold the BW against the hub to wind a bobbin, and between the tire going over the nail and the wheel being out-of-round, there’s some noise and vibration, but it works. LOL!


CD in Oklahoma

CD, I wondered about using a rubber belt on the wheel - it sure would have to be a close fit. One I have was motorized and since the BW worked off the belt they put a screen door spring on there. I'm not sure where that one is though or if the fix works.

A rubber belt may work, I haven’t tried one to see how snug it might fit. This fix is working, and with the wheel hub being off-center and womping (is that a word?) around like a lump on a car tire, I’ll probably have to hold pressure on the BW manually anyway.


I have a strap cutter down at the shop somewhere that I think I can find. I think I’ll use this cobbled up strap for while to make sure it continues to work, and if so, use the strap cutter to cut a second leather strap that is more uniform to replace it. I cut this one in my bikeshop with a large pair of shears, and I didn’t get it cut very straight. I can counter-sink the nail clip into the leather, and dye the leather to help it blend in better. I’ve been thinking about re-painting the wheel, but it’s hard to match colors (using rattle-can paint), so I may be as well off to keep the wheel black and dye the leather to match.


I need to correct my statement of “Singer spoked handwheel” that I posted above. This is an aftermarket handwheel, and not a genuine Singer-made wheel.


CD in Oklahoma

CD, I understand that the Singer cable is a Singer product, but isn't the concept of the Manhattan single pin the same? My machines have a female plug for each wire and each plug slips over a single prong to complete the power circuit. Wouldn't the analogy instead of oranges and apples be more Washington apples and Winesap apples, both being apples? I'm assuming this picture is a power cord made up of single pin plugs. I'll let more knowledgeable posters carry on.

for your treadle and antique sewing machine parts, this ONLINE SITE might help. i found the Singer Electric Connector Plug #190659 (female and male type and the screw on type).

I serviced a Singer 401A during the past few days, that the owner said has been in storage for over 20 years. I had no reason not to believe her, and was not looking forward to getting everything “un-stuck” to operate again. It is in a portable Singer snap-on case. Boy, was I surprised when I popped the case top off and began “feeling” the movement of things, only to discover that there wasn’t anything that didn’t move freely. Even the two cam controls slid easily full travel!

Now, cosmetically, the thing looks dirty with oil stains nearly all over it, inside and out, and you can tell that the previous user was “Old School” about keeping the machine oiled, but that may be what kept this machine in such good operating condition. I wish that I knew what kind of oil had been used liberally on this machine. Twenty-plus years ago, I don’t know that Tri-Flow was quite the rage that it is now, so it was probably some other type of oil.


I wonder if it was 3in1 Oil.....?


CD in Oklahoma

"
"I wonder if it was 3in1 Oil.....?"


It may have been whatever oil Singer was selling at the time. A little went a long way.

Singer potted motor re-hab
 

Went to work on seeing if I could help a 201-2 that ran slowww. Someone (previous owner was a SM collector who liked to repair them himself) had filled the brush ports with grease.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454356[/ATTACH] Removed motor, replaced wiring that had crispy insulation by the windings, used brake cleaner and compressed air to get the grease out, extra attention in the brush holders. Turned the armature down a hair on my Taig lathe.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454357[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]454358[/ATTACH]


reassembled the motor, I used a salvaged cord with a plug still on it to test it with Variac.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454359[/ATTACH]

Then I shortened and put connectors on the cord. Soldered them on to keep corrosion from working it's way in, and used Liquid Electrical Tape, to further insure it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454360[/ATTACH]
Replaced the grease wicks and fed them some Singer grease, looks more like vaseline these days, and did not go too heavy on the gear at the recommendation from my OSMG to keep lube from working back onto the brushes.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454364[/ATTACH]
Put it all back together. And then gave it a test run.

Well done! :)
How did it do?

It was still slow, removed the brushes and recleaned them, and removed some little brass washers the previous owner stuck between springs and brush caps. Testing with a photo tachometer, I got the speed with the clutch disengaged at
1200 rpm and engaged at [ATTACH=CONFIG]454365[/ATTACH]
For comparison I checked a couple 15-91's and a 15-88 and a 1934 FW. Guess which one ran the fastest?! (Hint -not the 201-2)
It gets going faster the longer its running, but it's a long ways from 1200SPM. And t head itself turns very freely, been thoroughly TF'd). I'm going to order brushes from Sew-Classics and see how it does.

My wife uses a Singer 401A every day at our shop. We have two 401A machines, so that one is on the shelf ready if a problem arises with the one in use, and also gives me time to service one while the other is being used. One of the machines has sort of been a little “problem child” from the time that we found it at a moving sale. It hadn’t been used in a very long time, and the motor bearings were dry and complained loudly when I was getting it limbered back up. It got the nickname “Weenie” because of the loud “Weeeeeeee-Neeeeeeee” sound that it made when initially speeding the motor up and letting it coast back down. It quieted down after a little oil worked its way in, but the nickname stuck.

Weenie has been a fairly good sewing machine, but has been giving us a recurring problem on occasion when it suddenly starts breaking the top thread at the bobbin case. I’ve fiddled with the clearance setting of the position bracket several times, and it will be problem-free for a long time, just to act up again. This time, I’ve swapped the position bracket out with one from another machine. The one that was in it is unlike any that I’ve seen before, so I’m wondering if it came from a different model machine or is a reproduction. Anyone seen one made like this? (see arrow in photo)

CD in Oklahoma

" on my Taig lathe"

...and jealousy rears it's ugly head! hehe

Jim,

Neither my 15-91 or my 202-2 will run at 1200 rpm / spm but they both run great.
Try cleaning the brushes and tubes with denatured alcohol. I had to do that when the brushes and commutator on my 201-2 got so dirty it wouldn't start unless you nudged the hand wheel. Works great now.

I agree with Steve, I'm jealous of the lathe. :)

Joe

ok so it isn't all the way done yet but it looks a ton better AND it sews real nice now, too.
This first pic isn't really the before - it is after a massive clean up but before it was done...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454433[/ATTACH]
and after - still needs a lot more TLC but I KNOW it sews!!!:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]454434[/ATTACH]

Good job Miriam. I’m more into function than looks, so in most cases I could care less what one looks like, as long as it works good.

CD in Oklahoma

I got the function part down before I did anything at all with the looks. The looks are better in the picture than in person. That machine was so bad I figured there was nothing to lose. I'm not sure how to fix that bent bobbin winder widget. I just got done touching up the rusted areas with black nail polish - don't laugh guys it worked and if I get any on my nails... :cool: The guts were rusted up and not turning at all. She turns freely and sews a nice stitch. She could use a bit of dremmel brush work in a few places yet. She was a GW rescue.

Miriam, looking good but don't let it think you are getting in a hurry now.:o

They ALL think I'm in a hurry, Glenn - I have to remind myself...

You could leave it like it is and just tell everyone that it’s the new style. “New and Improved”!


CD in Oklahoma

not an improvement now is it?

No, but then some of the things that I’ve had through the years that were “New & Improved” weren’t either........


CD in Oklahoma

The brushes looked like they were a good length, I would think if they're clean, like JOe mentioned that it would run well. How smoothly does the worm gear turn? I'm wondering if there's something else introducing some drag. How does the motor sound?


It looks like a reproduction to me, possibly a well done "home" job? The metal is very different than the originals. Is there any chance that the clearance screws slip a little with the vibration, causing your recurrent issues?

I think the 201-2 sounds healthy, but not fast. As it runs it is slowly pucking up sppeed. (love having a tachometer!). brushes are probably reseating into the smaller diameter armature. Also ordered new brushes. The other 201 needs them badly anyway. I'm going to check RPMs on all my SMs this weekend just for something to do. I'm an info junkie!

I'd love to have a tachometer. I usually use the "Seat of the pants" measurement. ;) My 15-90 started slow. I thought that it had to do with the fact that the grease ports weren't doing their jobs. When I got it, there was a crust of grease on the top, and the bottom of the wick (closest to the motor) was white like it was fresh from the factory. I gave it a tiny little dab of grease right where the grease wicks were supposed to supply it, filled the grease tubes per Dave McCallum's "5 second squeeze" suggestion, and started it up. It was stinky and slow then it started speeding up, it was really neat to see. Info is good. We can make "informed" decisions with it. ;)

A lady dropped her Singer 221 Featherweight off at the shop to get it serviced. She said she hasn’t used it for 30 years or so, but would like to get it limbered back up to use again. When I opened up the case, here’s what I saw in the top tray. Every spool of thread is wooden! One of the thimbles looks like it is made of brass, and those aren’t after-market bobbins either! I just thought it looked so cool that I wanted to share it. It was like opening up a time capsule.

CD in Oklahoma