The Minimal Sewing Studio
 

OK, here's the deal.

Collecting all these vintage machines has been loads of fun. However, I'm running out of space and need to cull the herd -- substantially.

And believe it or not, I'd like to actually learn to sew.

In your opinion, what machines would you include in your ideal but minimal sewing studio? With as little overlap as possible, what set of machines would cover as many projects as possible?

Here's my dream team:

1. Flat bed industrial zig-zag/straight set up for heavy duty sewing (leather -- garment and vegetable tanned, upholstery, drapery, etc.) preferably with a Servo motor system, possibly computer-controlled but not necessarily

2. Flat bed vintage heavy-duty domestic straight stitch for precise edge and top stitching for garment sewing

3. Flat bed vintage heavy-duty zig-zag with cam stack and cam assembly for garment sewing with stretch stitching including:

Built-in utility stitches including blind hem, 2-thread simulated overlocking, smocking, multi-point, etc.

Knit (stretch) mechanism with width/length adjustment

Width adjustment must be a minimum of 5mm maximum width

Built-in buttonhole drive preferred

Decorative stitch cams

Double-needle capable, meaning a front-facing bobbin system

4. Free arm zig-zag for small projects, straight and zig-zag only -- preferably a convertible

5. 5-thread coverstitch machine with wide rolled hem

6. 4-thread overlock machine with narrow rolled hem

All of this would be in addition to the usual pressing equipment, tables, etc. A buttonholing machine would be nice (such as a Reece) as would an industrial serger (such as a Rimoldi or Juki) but more machine than necessary.

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What say you?

I don't think I 'm really qualified to answer! I used my Kenmore (straight and zig-zag) for about 25 years until the OSMG said it was shot - bought a terrible plastic cheapie for the next 10 years, and have had a Janome 2010 (inexpensive computerized) and a Bernina 750 (expensive computerized) since then. I haven't sewn leather, but I've made everything from curtains to costumes to clothes to quilts on those machines. Also reupholstered a couch.

I've started buying a few vintage machines, but mainly just for amusement. I must say, my old Bernina 830 does a terrific straight stitch, and the little Featherweight is great to take to classes and Linus.

I guess I'm saying - depends on what you want to do and how professional you want it to look! As a young mom, that was the last thing on my mind. As an old gramma, I'd like to make nice-looking quilts, hence the 750.

What do you want to make?

Cheers!
Margaret

Nor am I!

What do I want to make? In a word, everything!

I guess what I mean is that if I were to reduce my herd (or add to if necessary such as an industrial or two) down to the minimum, which machines would give me the most versatility, the most room to grow, the best results, etc. I think it'd be great to get to the point where I can sew all of my own clothes (except shoes -- that takes specialized equipment and skills that I know I won't get around to acquiring) and do some upholstering as well.

In looking at my list, I think I'd probably add a machine set up specifically for making buttonholes. I would hate to have to change all my zig-zag settings, switch out the plate, the foot, screw on the buttonholer, test, change, test again, etc. and then switch it all back when I'm back to sewing seams. A buttonholing machine would be ideal.

I'm no expert but I think you can thin that herd quite substantially.
1 heavy commercial machine with walking foot for heavy canvas and leather-you probably won't use it much.
1 good old straight stitch machine. I prefer a dedicated straight stitch machine, I think they're a little quieter and smoother than most zigzag machines and they make a prettier stitch.
1 zigzag/decorative stitch free arm machine. I'm thinking like an old Elna, Viking or Pfaff with cams.
Realistically a free arm is good for mending, patching, things of that nature but most sewing can be accomplished with a flat bed machine.
A serger is optional. There are plenty of other ways to treat edges and seams so they don't unravel.

After you have 1 good running sewing machine the rest aren't really need based anymore.
Rodney

I've got the straight stitch and the zig-zag machine, the 4-thread overlock, the free arm machine, plus an extra for buttonholes (built-in buttonhole drive -- really slick and a pleasure to use).

I'd need the industrial zig-zag and the 5-thread.

The reason I specify a zig-zag industrial is purely for versatility. Some of the zig-zag industrials I've seen produce as good a straight stitch as any.

I wish one machine could do it all.

Why the 5 thread? If you have the 4 thread wouldn't one be redundant?
I ask, knowing nothing about sergers/overlocks other than most clothing is sewn with them these days. I'm thinking because they save steps by sewing, trimming and treating the edge of the seam all in one step.
Rodney

It depends. There are overlocking machines, coverstitching machines, and combination machines that do both. In order to be able to do a 5-thread coverstitch, you have to have a 5-thread machine that's either a coverstitch or a combination machine. (5-thread coverstitching is something I'd have to have, as this is the primary hem stitch for t-shirts and many, many other knit fabric.) A 4-thread overlocking machine cannot by definition do any 5-thread stitch.

You might have meant that if I have a 5-thread machine, why would I need a 4-thread. Switching from one to the other on one machine is a real pain, from what I've read. (I have yet to try to do this myself but in reading the instructions on switching from rolled hem to overlocking on my Baby Lock machines, I would hate to have to go through all 14 steps each time I need to switch from one to the other.)

Okay. I'm not gonna go for the ideal here, I'll go for what I realistically only want permanently set up in my current sewing room.
1-Flat bed straight stitch machine, no explanation needed.
2-Embroidery machines, again no expl. needed.
3-Multi stitch machine, free arm convertible.
4-Serger.
5-Straight stitch set up for quilting small stuff.(Someday I'll have a machine on a frame, but in another room)

Of course there are others I'll keep and use, like the mini walker for heavy stuff, but these are the basics.

Cari

Well- A twin needle industrial flatbed (I use a Consew 333RB at work) is great, but straight stitch only. You can make flat felled and rolled seams with attachments. I sew flags, and sometimes up to 10 or more layers at intersections when adding the headers. I swear if I stuck my finger under it I would sew through my bones. It uses 2 bobbins and 2 needles so each lockstitch seam is independent. Just remove 1 needle and bobbin for single needle sewing. Unless I were making sails I don't think an industrial zig zag would be useful.
An old Kenmore (model 82?) is fine for flatbed and cam sewing, zig zag, stretch stitch, etc.
Just add a serger and a free arm and I think that covers most of the bases. Some serious sewers like the older Bernina 830 or 930 (I think) for really nice straight, zig zag, and satin stitching. I personally like the features of needle down and center-left-right needle positioning.
A treadle or hand crank would be nice for nostalgic quiet sewing and power outages.
Keep an eye on Craigslist- I occasionally see industrial buttonhole machines for $150 or less here in NY.

Well you need a 201 for your #2 on the list. Put a roller foot on and it will also be able to stitch leather and vinyl.
For #4 I'd look out for a 431g or 320k2, although you might be looking a long time). Both do ZZ and the 320 also does embroidery. Both are convertibles (free arm). European brands are also contenders: Berninas, Pfaffs and Husqvarnas (Viking in the U.S.) are all good vertical bobbin machines and all do free arm models. My Pfaff 260 can do everything on Earth and is extremely fast but not a free arm. The 360 is, but I've only ever seen one for sale (and it sold for a lot).

I found that any good domestic straight stitcher + buttonholer produce a really good buttonhole, but you have to experiment with the settings, even with a template one (you often need to adjust tension and foot pressure).